Common Do-it-Yourself Washing Machine Repairs

by on October 7, 2012Karie Fay

Having a washing machine to call your own makes life so much simpler. That is, until your washer develops a mind of its own and throws a mechanical tantrum. At times like these, it’s easy to feel frustrated and overwhelmed, unsure how to fix the problem and dreading the repair bill likely to follow. Don’t start with the Yellow Pages in your quest for solutions. The most common washing machine repairs are often simple to perform. Armed with a few basic tools and a little knowledge, you can probably even do it yourself.

Anatomy of a Washing Machine

diy washing machine repairA washing machine is little more than a large tub that fills with water, swishes around, drains and spins to complete the wash. These four cycles – fill, wash, drain and spin – depend on hidden parts to make everything happen. When your washer fails, you must take a closer look at the part responsible for the action involved. Although every washing machine is slightly different, each operates on the same general principles.

Water supply hoses, both hot and cold, deliver water to a solenoid-operated water inlet valve inside the washer housing. The water mixes, according to the temperature indicated with the temperature and cycle settings on the washer’s control panel, and flows into the tub interior. Inside the control panel, the water-level control unit houses a pressure switch that determines when the tub is full, according to the size setting selected, closes the water inlet and signals the start of the wash cycle.

In a top-loading machine, the agitator starts, while in a side-loading machine the entire inner tub moves instead. A motor, attached to a clutch and transmission in many machines but a solenoid in a direct-drive machine, powers the movement and shifts cycles. A large belt drives the movement, much like the drive belt on a car.

Finally, a timer inside the washer control signals the washer to drain. A pump, at the bottom of the housing near the motor, sucks water from the inner tub, through the outer tub and into a drain line while the tub itself spins at a high speed. Fresh water floods the washer, the agitator or tub moves to rinse the clothes, and the water drains again.

DIY Washing Machine Repair Preparation

Knowing that your washing machine isn’t working properly – if at all – isn’t enough. Blindly guessing at the cause and wildly changing parts is costly and wastes time. Instead, follow a plan of action:

  • Observe the washing machine’s symptoms. Look closely to gather all the necessary information.
  • Troubleshoot your washer. Use the basics of how the machine works to pinpoint the possible cause. For instance, if you’re not getting water, look at the inlet hoses or the inlet valve. If the tub fails to spin, on the other hand, the problem is likely underneath the washer, involving the clutch, transmission, motor, or most likely, the belt. If it simply won’t drain, look at the drain pump as well as the drainpipe. Make a list of possibilities.
  • Tear the washing machine apart to access the components likely involved, if necessary. Some repairs may be outside the machine.
  • Inspect or test the parts you suspect are failing. Start with the simplest first. Don’t be afraid to ask for help, or to obtain a professional’s assistance. (If you must call a technician, it bears mentioning to watch him or her at work. Knowledge is power, and you will have a better idea of what to do in the future by watching and asking lots of questions.)
  • Adjust or repair as appropriate. Some repairs may not require new parts, and some parts may need to be ordered. Use the model and serial number, along with any production codes, from the  rating plate on the washer’s rear. Meanwhile, prepare an alternate method of washing clothes while your machine is down.
  • Test the new part or repair. You may need to completely reassemble the washing machine before you find out whether it works. If you can test it before putting the machine back together, that’s best.
  • Put the machine back together, using all the screws previously removed. (Of course, some people never do. You know who you are.)

Before you even think of tearing your washing machine apart, disconnect the power and unhook the water supply hoses. Don’t settle for flipping the breaker; unplug the appliance instead. Lay blankets, towels or other floor protection around the base to avoid scrapes and floor damage or to catch any water you spill. A bucket or pail, some clean rags, and a few basic tools such as screwdrivers, a pipe wrench or a pair of channel-lock pliers will likely come in handy as well. If you need to test electrical parts, a volt-ohm meter is indispensable.

Wobbling, Filling, Draining and Leaks

Some fixes are amazingly simple, requiring little time and nothing more than pulling the washing machine out from the wall to allow access to the rear or adjusting how the washer is positioned. Keep a flashlight handy to help you see in cramped, dark areas.

Wobbling washers, which act like they’re trying to walk away, are the easiest repair of all. One of two things is wrong – either the current load is unbalanced, causing the inner tub to bounce around inside the outer tub, or the machine isn’t level. An unbalanced load is temporary and will return to normal with the next load provided you distribute the weight of the clothes evenly and avoid over-filling the machine, which also stresses the motor and transmission. If the machine itself is not level, ensure all the water is drained before proceeding.

Underneath your washer are leveling feet, one to a corner. Often, the rear legs are “self-leveling” and adjust on their own. Tilt your washer forward enough that the back feet lift 3 or 4 inches from the floor, then settle it back in place. If the legs self-level, they will be accurate. Next, lift the front of the washer enough to slide a sturdy two-by-four board under the front, preventing the front legs from touching the floor. Turn the legs, using a wrench, to raise or lower. Clockwise will lower the machine and counter-clockwise extends the leg, lifting the washer instead. Use a level, running it side-to-side as well as front-to-back and even diagonally across the top, to determine when the machine is level. Be patient – you will likely have to adjust, check, lift the machine back up and adjust again a few times before achieving a perfect reading.

Leaks on the floor around your washer are generally due to one thing – a leaking hose. On the back of your washer are three hoses: two supply hoses, both hot and cold, near the top and a drain hose that attaches near the bottom. Check the connections, where the hoses attach to the back of the washer as well as to the supply lines emerging from the wall and to the sewer drainpipe. If the hoses fit snugly and securely, look for holes in the lines themselves. It’s always possible the hole will be too small to find without water flowing through it, but even a pinhole can lead to a rotting floor or mold. Replace visibly old, cracked, suspect-looking hoses. The hoses and clamps are self-explanatory to remove and replace and are very affordable. Turn the water off at the wall before performing the work, and test the results before putting the washer back in place.

Problems filling the machine often result from malfunctions of the water control unit or the inlet valve, both of which require some amount of machine disassembly. However, it bears mentioning that the simplest fix – and the first thing to check – is the water supply hoses and supply knobs. Above the hoses, emerging from the wall, are typically dial-like knobs that shut the water off and turn it on. Check that each is turned fully open to allow water to flow. Even a pinched hose can prevent water from reaching the washer. Especially if the machine previously “walked” in place or the washer was shoved or moved, the inlet hoses may become cramped enough to prevent filling. Move the washer to allow free water flow.

If the washer has a hard time draining or refuses to drain, the problem may lie with the pump inside the washer’s housing. Another possibility, however, is a blockage within the house drain or the washer’s drain hose. First, detach the drain hose from the washer, where it connects to the pump inside. Then free it from the drainpipe; it either secures to the drainpipe or, commonly, slides down into the drain. In the latter case, the end of the drain hose shouldn’t be farther than 4 to 6 inches inside the drainpipe to prevent a siphon-like action which works against proper drainage. Look inside the drain hose to spot blockages, especially at the beginning or end of the hose. Usually the hose isn’t very long so cleaning out an obstruction is fairly simple.

If you notice water standing in the drainpipe itself, there’s likely a clog inside the wall drain. Try running a plumbing snake down the pipe or use a straightened coat hanger to reach close obstructions. Consult a plumber for difficult blockages within the house framing.

Older washing machines used a drain filter to catch lint and debris before it reached the drain. While newer machines – with the exception of front-loading machines – don’t usually include a filter, aftermarket filters and homemade filters are used by owners concerned about filtration, especially with septic tank systems that may struggle with the load. Check a filter if your machine has one: either inside the end of the drain hose, attached to the drain hose and perhaps mounted to the wall, or behind an access panel at the front of the washer on side-loading machines. Clean to restore water flow.

Looking Under the Hood – Tearing the Washer Apart

Think of the washing machine’s exterior as a car exterior, the tub its seats and the mechanical parts – the motor, water pump, transmission, drive belt and such – as the engine components under the hood. It makes sense as, with some differences, many of the parts have corresponding parts on a car. Like a vehicle, you also have to get under the hood to fix most of the things that can go wrong. A washer generally has more than one point of entry:

  • Remove the washing machine’s control panel cover. Typically, the control knobs pull off with a firm hand, although some may have setscrews holding them in place. The timer and cycle knob, the largest knob on the controls, hooks to the timer control on the opposite side and generally attaches with screws. Some screws may be hidden under trim.
  • To enter the washer from the bottom, tip it over on the front or side. Remove any service panels by loosening and removing retaining screws. Service panels may be along the front, back, and rarely the bottom.
  • Remove the top of the washer for easy access from the top. Pry up the top with a screwdriver or putty knife to force the spring clips holding it in place to release. With the control panel removed it should be fairly easy to free this piece, revealing the entire inner cabinet.

Repairs Involving the Controls

Once you have the controls revealed, most are easily removable in a self-evident manner. The timer, for instance, is immediately behind the large cycle and timer knob that you use to start the wash. This part may snap into place with a retaining clip or secure with screws. Check the wires running from the timer to the other parts to ensure they are secure and in good condition. Test the timer itself with a volt-ohm meter (VOM) on the RX1 scale, which is usually the default setting. Attach the meter’s probes, one each, to the optional wire pairings leading from the switch. Each of these corresponds to a wash setting. The reading for each terminal should be zero on one and infinity on the rest. Any other results means the timer is faulty. Detach and replace with a new timer. Test, remove and replace the other control switches, including the lid safety switch, similarly.

The pressure switch mounts to the control area as well. It controls the washer’s water level. A clear tube runs from the switch, carrying air, which reacts to a rising water level inside the washer’s tub, with an increase in air pressure. The proper pressure for the water level selected activates a switch that stops the water valve and the flow of water. If the hose has fallen loose, is pinched or has any holes, however small, the air pressure will be inaccurate and may cause your washing machine to overflow, thinking it isn’t full yet.

Pull the air tube from the pressure switch and replace with a new tube of the appropriate size to repair faulty tubing. Test the switch with a VOM to ensure it works accurately. Clip the probes to the terminals and blow forcefully into the end of the attached air tube. The VOM should beep and register zero or the switch is faulty. Remove and replace to fix.

Repairs Inside the Washing Machine

Failure in the mechanical parts within the washer also frequently occurs. While every washing machine make and model varies somewhat, each is guided by the same principles and most of the same parts, with the exception of the drive system, whether belt-driven or direct, and the top-loader’s agitator versus the front-loading machine’s lack of one. Several repairs are easily performed by the average DIY repairman with a little observation and determination. Others depend on their level of general mechanical experience plus a healthy dose of confidence. A few of the most common, simple and useful repairs include removing and replacing the agitator, cleaning the pump, and checking or replacing belts.

If your agitator fails to move, moves weakly or only in one direction, one of the first things to look at is your agitator. It’s simple to remove and, once it’s gone, makes access to the transmission, clutch, or even removing the inner tub much easier if you have the knowledge and ability to make more complicated repairs

Older washing machines have an agitator that simply pops out with a little encouragement, but some may require removing a screw or two. Simply unscrew or lift away the fabric softener dispenser, if present, then lift, pry or unscrew the cap at the top of the agitator. If you see a bolt in the middle of the surface under the cap, remove it as well. Look for a screw near the bottom of the agitator’s base and remove if present. Now lift the agitator up and out, using a slight rocking motion to break it free. Some agitators will remove easily but some will prove extremely stubborn. Looping a rope under the agitator base and over a broom handle resting on top of the washer, then levering up on the broom, may help.

Replacing the agitator will fix broken fins and clothes torn from rough agitator parts. If the issue is weak agitation, look for string, clothes and other objects wedged under the agitator or wrapped around the drive shaft underneath the agitator. Another common repair, suspected when the agitator moves in one direction only, are the agitator “dogs,” located inside the agitator where the top and bottom pieces join. Step on the bottom flange surrounding the removed agitator and pull up on the top to separate the sections. Flip the top portion upside down and remove the assembly inside. This piece contains the dogs, four small cogs encircling the cam unit. Use a replacement kit, following the specific instructions, to remove and replace these cogs. The agitator reassembles in the opposite manner from disassembly.

Cleaning or replacing the pump is another fix for drainage problems. The pump is located in the bottom of the washer cabinet and attaches to the drainage hose. Sometimes the pump becomes clogged or simply fails and needs replacement. The pump may attach directly to the washer motor with retaining clips keeping it in place, mounted independently of the motor but attached with a drive belt, or may run independent of the main motor, using an internal motor instead. Disconnect the drain tubes, one running from the tub to the pump and the other from the pump to the wall, and free the unit. Tear the pump apart – the process is self-explanatory – and check for clogs caused by hair, clothes and debris. Replace the unit, alternatively, snapping it in place of the old pump and reattaching the hoses.

Worn, broken or slipping drive belts may also cause agitation and spinning problems. Changing belts is a messy, time-consuming job, so a visual inspection is a good first step. The belt shouldn’t have any cracks or look glazed over. When you pluck the belt like a guitar string, it should be taut. Try moving the belt side-to-side to test the play. It should move about ¼ inch before resisting. If the belt moves over ½ inch, however, the belt either needs tightening or, on newer models, replacement.

To replace the belt, use a screwdriver to detach the clamps from the pump coupling. These are flexible rubber parts that attach the pump to the motor. Once the coupling is removed, the belt slides out. In some cases, you may need to loosen the motor’s mounting bolts and push it slightly inward to take enough tension off the belt to slide it free. The new belt then hooks over the transmission pulley and the motor pulley. The belt may resist placement – slide it over the near edge of the motor pulley and turn the pulley to work it on gradually. Then, replace the coupling or tighten the mounting bolts to complete reassembly. Test the play before putting the washing machine back together.

Considerations

No repair guide is exhaustive. With all the parts, and the parts that make up the parts, that form a washing machine, a complete repair manual would likely run a hundred pages or more. Considering all the manufacturers and washer styles, no single manual would cover every washer around. If you’ve made it this far, however, chances are good that other repairs, not listed, are within your reach. As a wise man once related, if you can tear it apart and pay attention to how it fits together in the process, chances are good you can put it back together again. From there, it takes little more than figuring out how the part works and then, what isn’t working properly. If your washing machine is already broken, you have little to lose but time, and a lot of money to save.


Additional Washing Machine Repair Resources

Consider visiting these free online resources if you need additional assistance with your washing machine repair efforts.

Part Select’s Repair Help Pages – This exhaustive guide from Part Select, “a leader in helping do-it-yourselfers with their home repair needs,” breaks down washing machine repair on a symptom-by-symptom basis. It also has videos on identifying issues with washing machines and walkthroughs on how to make repairs.

How Stuff Works’ Washing Machine Repair Guide – From timer troubles to pump problems, this guide can walk any washing machine owner through the process of fixing – or at least identifying – their appliance’s issues.

{ 199 comments… read them below or add one }

mark d November 12, 2014 at 6:37 pm

I have a 25year old maytag top load washing machine. My question involves when it is draining the tub is trying to turn at the same time and it makes a squeaking sound until the water is drained and then it spins out normally. Is it supposed to do this? Thanks for any info

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Sandi Nance-Allison October 30, 2014 at 7:18 pm

After machine fills the tub with water it starts agitating that is when it starts leaking water out the drain hose. 11082372110 Kenmore Electric washer

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ROY October 27, 2014 at 4:30 pm

i HAVE A ge WASHER FRONT LOADER THE KNOB THAT CONTROLS THE WASHING MODE
SHOWS A RED LOCK IN THE WASH MODE DIAL

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Teresa October 21, 2014 at 5:44 am

When I start the cycle on my whirlpool top loader and the water is filling up then after a few seconds it will start to drain out, so as water enters it is also draining back out. I will stop the machine then turn it back on and most times it will continue properly. It use to do this only when I selected a large load, but now it his happens on all size loads, and before I realized this one day I started the cycle and left the room and came back about an hour later and the machine was still filling up and emptying, needless to say my water bill was much higher that month. So no more leaving the room until I know the emptying has stopped. What is going on with this machine. Thanks.

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Mrs. Matthews October 28, 2014 at 5:51 am

I am also having this same problem with my top loader whirlpool washer. The tub fills with water, but drains before the wash cycle starts.

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david October 16, 2014 at 12:10 pm

My Bosch ClassiXX washing machine seems to keep on washing wont stop, it seems like its not getting past the first cycle. what can i do to repair this, I would appreciate your help.

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Vara October 12, 2014 at 9:49 am

Recently I moved our GE high efficiency top load washer to our new apartment. While loading I had to lay down position in my SUV cargo section. Interestingly when I connected in our new apartment it fills water but do not start wash cycle. I tested to see if it is draining, yes it drains but no spin.. so it won’t start wash, rinse, spin. Can someone help me the real issue? I cannot afford to call technician to pay $80/hr

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Jared September 19, 2014 at 3:22 pm

My washing machine is moving very fast through the cycle. It usually takes around 40 minutes to run, and it is through in under 10. It will fill with water, and pump the water out, but it will not agitate or spin.

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Lesley September 15, 2014 at 4:42 am

ok – not your normal problem I will grant you, however…. When I was cleaning my detergent drawer of my Hoover Optima washing machine, my grandson dropped a conker down a pipe in the machine that runs from the detergent drawer housing to goodness knows where.
Can anyone tell me how to get this conker out? Hoover cannot send a repair man for almost 2 weeks. HELP!!

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Nanny September 14, 2014 at 3:07 pm

My Kenmore washer has left grease deposits on the wall of the tub the last two times I used it. The pair is 8 yrs old. Worth repairing ??? Dryer leaves half to one inch lines of rust on clothes in a full load. Last gas Kenmore dryer did the same thing. These are my fifth set of Kenmore appliances in 54 years.

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ms. sam September 14, 2014 at 1:13 pm

our whirlpool wash machine goes the wash cycle with no trouble, but then it stops in the rinse cycle. What could be the problem and how can we dyi?

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andre matthew August 18, 2014 at 12:01 pm

dear friends tell me what to do, i have a problem with the speed of my washer….
tri-staterepairs

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Adrienne August 17, 2014 at 8:37 am

Kenmore top loading washer got to the final rinse cycle and spun for a minute, had a burning smell and then shut off with water in the tub. Water pump is not clogged and hoses are ok. Tub spins fine. What else could it be?

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Adele July 28, 2014 at 4:45 am

A wire round with a kind of stretchy bit has appeared in the drum of my beko washing machine,any ideas where its from and how to put back its roughly the size of the hole,many thanks!!!

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lalit June 25, 2014 at 10:02 pm

when i put the water in the machine all the water goes through drain pipe the knob is on wash-rinse option

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Pat June 23, 2014 at 4:09 pm

The tub of my GE washer rusted through and leaks. Why would this happen? And, can I patch it with JB Wield or some other material?

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Roger June 19, 2014 at 4:09 pm

Clothes still soaking wet after spin cycle is done. Can top much clothes cause this, plus shakes, rattles and rolls when in spin cycle. Thought??

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Stan June 18, 2014 at 10:03 pm

I have a problem wth my washing machine
It doesnt want to wash clothes when l press wash ,it doesnt rinse when l press rinse but it spins when l press spin and drains out the water leaving the clothes dry
The machine is an LG fuzzy logic WF-T1050TP

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Kerri Huskey May 31, 2014 at 6:54 pm

I have an amana washing machine. It will not go past the first cycle. How can I fix this.

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kenny May 31, 2014 at 7:46 am

i have an amana model nfw7200tw front loading washer and the door wont open had repair man out and he said it was the pump / replaced pump run washer thru cycle now door wont open again any suggestions

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Jill May 17, 2014 at 8:22 pm

I have a GE washer and it starts clicking and then stops agitating. It will spin but it spins like it is unbalanced. My husband has fixed it a couple of times and I know he said it was a clip that vibrated off both times. Like an idiot I didn’t pay enough attention. I just assumed he would be there to fix it. He passed away last month and my washer did it again. I took the front off and found a retaining clip on the bottom of the machine but I don’t know where it goes. I do know all he had to do was remove the front and replace the clip. Can you give me a clue where the clip goes.

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Gareth May 14, 2014 at 1:22 pm

I have a electrolux essential,it washes as normal for about 10 mins, then suddenly spins really fast for no reason and stops.If I leave it on, the machine will start washing again for a couple of seconds, then does the same again. It will also spin one way fast,then the other way fast then stop.anyone help? Before I buy a new machine.please.

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erin May 10, 2014 at 9:00 am

our 8 yr old GE washer stops while washing – starts again when we push the start button

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Goldfield July 19, 2014 at 12:02 am

your washing machine needs to be serviced,especially the drum needs to be cleaned

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beverly April 29, 2014 at 4:55 pm

i have a maytag 2000 series type 832-a an i dont know hat happen if lighting run in on it or what but i check the plug in an its getting power just the washer has no light on showing power of open an shut the door an nothing is there a reset button so if it was tripped or if the door was open to long or the cycle finished an dint open to close the cycle

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Sue Wilson April 26, 2014 at 4:38 pm

I have a Kenmore machine and the agitator quit working and it quit spinning as well. My husband replaced the dog ears and now when I wash a load of clothes it leaves a little water in the bottom of the machine. Any ideas what else could be wrong?

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Steven Olmen April 23, 2014 at 9:15 am

I have a Maytag top loader, MDL# SAV365ZAWW. When I have a load in and the washer goes into spin cycle it makes a loud noise for about 10 seconds and then shuts off. Wait a few minutes, I can start it back up, runs ok for about 10 seconds, then it makes a loud noise and shuts off. Checked and verified the load wasn’t out of balance. Physically checked the best while washer was running with no load, appeared to be ok (but haven’t checked the best with a full load yet). I’ve run the washer through a complete cycle with out a load and works fine.

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lev royzmam April 13, 2014 at 10:01 am

Hi,Karie. My GE washer model ZR162823G 25 yr old. I loaded a few small bathroom rugs that during the cycle created some disbalans ,at some point the water start running from under machine .I checked the outside hoses ,no leaks, then I removed the back cover, the water was poring out from the button of the outer tub.
Pleas advise. Thanks Lev.

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tj April 1, 2014 at 2:19 pm

My GE front loader washing machine timer counts down but machine does not wash clothes. It will start at 3.8 count down to maybe 2.4 and have ‘rinse’ on screen and keep counting down to 0 but not doing anything. HELP!

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Jess March 26, 2014 at 12:20 pm

I have a maytag 2000 series that flashed the door lock code. We have replaced the door lock and it still won’t work. We have heard that it could have fried the motherboard when the door lock fried. Is there any directions or info on how to do this. I have some experience replacing computer motherboards so i def. think it b possible to replace myself, def worth the effort vs paying someone else or buying new.

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Theresa Marie March 16, 2014 at 10:03 pm

My kenmore elite washer, HE3 will spin for 40 minutes after the timer says only 1 minute is left

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Peterson kelly March 12, 2014 at 9:48 pm

Home appliances is on of most important part of our home and day routine but the problems with them make us worried . The above blog about taking care of washing machine and repairing them is amazingly described very well. I didn’t face any problem with my washer but it will be helpful for future .

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Helen March 7, 2014 at 9:33 pm

Help, I’ve just bought a Asko wasing machine front loader. I’ve put on a normal wash and it works for 15 mins then fills more water and doesn’t stop and floods. I have just got rid of my old Westinghouse for the same reason so now I’m thinking it’s something else. Any ideas on what?
Thanks Helen

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hope March 11, 2014 at 8:55 am

Hello, I did a load last night it worked fine this morning nothing it won’t come on it won’t make a sound please help!!:(:(

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Bren March 31, 2014 at 12:36 pm

I have the same problem this afternoon. Washer began to fill for first load, then quit. Now I have a wet quilt plus a few small items that I put in to help balance the load. It’s going to be a mess getting all that out!! UGH!! I’ll have to call the serviceman who, of course, won’t be here until Wednesday or. . . whenever, probably. UGH!!

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jaime March 5, 2014 at 7:55 pm

Hi!
I have a bravos top loader with no agitator from maytag every time it starts to spin it makes a grinding noise. I hope I dont need a new motor. Please help!

Thanks!!

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brian g February 3, 2014 at 9:36 am

Hello, thanks for all your info but I have a problem with my Kenmore #110.25852400. The circuit breaker tripped midway cycle then I put it back on,saw a few sparks by the water level- pressure switch, then the water wouldnt fill up; it has no noise and hose isn’t clogged. I looked at the water inlet valve and it isn’t clogged either plus I tapped it a bit but no water/power. *The spin cycle and drain WORKS fine but no power with the water fill up. Could you help me? Do you think the water level switch went preventing it to power or inlet, vice versa or? Fuse in machine or the timer part but don’t think so? Help please…? Thankyou

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lisa February 2, 2014 at 8:35 pm

My washer just doesnt fill with water on start cycle…but fills with water on rinse and spin cycle what cood it be…..

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Hannah Mulder January 27, 2014 at 10:20 am

Hello, I just had my washing machine break on my last night. It is an old top loader Maytag washer. There was a loud sharp sound, like when your faucet is screeching. I went and turned it off and smelled something burning. I removed the front panel and then looked under the washer while it was running. The front pump belt is moving but not the driver belt. any help you could give me would be greatly appreciated. It is a very old washer but it still works well. I don’t want to waste money on it as I bought it from a friend for only $20. Thank you very much for your time.

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clement January 25, 2014 at 12:38 am

I have a Simpson ezi set 450 top loader, it powers on but it drains water and never starts wash. Please help.

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Julie January 4, 2014 at 4:12 pm

Just moved washer out of wash room to tile floor. When we moved back and hooked up the cold water is not filling. We check the hoses and yes both are hooked up correct. We check the screens and made sure they weren’t plugged.. We even took the valve off and took to a local appliance store and they checked the selonoid and said they were good. We know its getting water as we checked both hoses before we hooked back up and you can also see and feel the water going to the washer to the selonoid, problem is cold is not filling into the washer. Any help would be appreciated asap. Thanks

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Karie Fay January 31, 2014 at 7:54 pm

Hi Julie,

I am not sure how much help I can be. You checked the solenoid, screens and hoses. I know this is simple, but have you tried hooking up a garden hose and turning on your cold water only? That way you know if water is coming to the washer. I understand you say you feel the water coming in, but I suggest you double check this way. From there, you will know whether it is indeed a problem with the machine. If the cold water comes out the hose, take the solenoid to another store. You might try picking their brain as well.

I know this isn’t a lot of help, but hope it’s a step in the right direction. Feel free to update me. I will help if I can.

Thanks,
Karie Fay

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Karen December 30, 2013 at 10:15 pm

Good Evening – I have a Kenmore top loader. When filling with water to do a load of laundry it appears the tub has dropped. The machine has an autobalance system and an autolock. When the machine was started it filled, the tub dropped and the machine won’t work. I manually emptied the water with a cup. When I try to start the machine again it locked, tried to balance and then unlocked. I cannot figure out why the tub dropped. Can anyone give me an idea so I can fix this. I’ve fixed my dryer twice on my own and I know I can fix the washer if I just knew where to start. Thank you.

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Alice Barfoot January 30, 2014 at 11:51 am

My washer filled up with water, then just stopped. I have checked the fuses, the outlet. all fine. What can the problem be?

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Karie Fay January 31, 2014 at 7:44 pm

Hi Ladies. Sorry to hear you are having problems.

Karen, the tub should never just ‘drop.’ I am guessing that if you tore your machine apart, you would find a part called the drive block needs replacing. This part connects the spin tube (the center post going through the tub) to the basket. If you’re handy you may be able to replace it yourself. It is more of a hassle than anything. You will need to find instructions specific to your washer model, however.

Alice, I think you are likely experiencing a faulty lid switch. Try poking something in the hole and you can confirm or deny it quickly. It’s easy to replace.

Hope that helps!
Karie Fay

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Ariel Graham February 8, 2014 at 7:28 pm

Alice, I had the same thing happen with my Kenmore top load washer recently. I would go to start the cycle but it would just stop after filling up. My lid switch had broken loose of the screws holding it in so the poker on the lid couldn’t push it down anymore. In a quick (cheap) fix, I zip tied the switch down that the lid usually pushes on and it works through the cycle completely.

Karen, tonight just a few weeks after figuring out the lid switch problem, my drum has decided to detach itself. It ran through the majority of a load and I heard really loud banging and my washer looked like it was going to bang through the floor. After a bit of investigating I found that the whole drum had come lose, I can move it around freely but still haven’t figured out how to fix it. I’ll update if I figure it out!

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michelle December 8, 2013 at 3:17 pm

hi my name is michelle and i have a top load washer by frigidair and it only spins when remove it from the base and place on the floor and drain out the back door can you tell me whats wrong and what i need to do

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Bren March 31, 2014 at 1:06 pm

call a repairman. NOW!

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Patty December 8, 2013 at 12:18 pm

Hi there!
I have a front loading washer that stopped spinning. The Sears repairman said there was something caught between the drums. We could see it start to spin but heard something bouncing around. Then, the bouncing sound stopped and the drum would freeze. The repairman said that the only way to fix it would be to do a $1200 overhaul. Is there some way to take it apart myself to take out the foreign object and then put it back together?

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Bren March 31, 2014 at 1:10 pm

First, make the repairman swear to that with his hand on a Bible, in front of a judge, in court. $1200 ?!?!? That’ll buy a new washer, Patty! C’mon! Train yourself to be a smarter person than that. Second, don’t buy from Sears again. They told me, “We just sell ‘em, we don’t service ‘em.”

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Florence December 7, 2013 at 12:02 am

The light bulb in my Maytag front load Neptune washer needs to be changed but I’m not handy so I can’t locate the bulb. I tried looking at schematic diagram but I’m clueless.

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Karie Fay January 31, 2014 at 7:50 pm

Hi Florence,

If you still need that bulb changed, try this:

Unplug the washer. Open the washer door and remove the screw that holds the lens cover to the door latch. It should take a Phillips screwdriver.

Pull the lens down to find the light bulb. Replace with a 10-watt candelabra base bulb — small, cone-shaped bulbs available most anywhere.

Hope that helps!
Karie Fay

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nalu November 17, 2013 at 2:34 pm

I have a kenmore elite front loader washer. All of a sudden my washer started making a lot of noise while it spins. I think the bowl has become loose. It also stays stuck on the last minute. Can you tell me if I might need a new belt or if this peoblem is fixable. Other than that it washes clean and drains fine. Thank you

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nalu November 17, 2013 at 2:25 pm

hi I have a Kenmore Elite front loading washer and I believe the bowl has come loose the washer spends with the really loud noise and the washer stay stuck on the last minute until I turn it off it will just keep going with 1 minute left on the timer can you please help me

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Vernon November 4, 2013 at 4:42 am

We have a front loader Whirlpool washing machine. just recently it has been leaking water slightly from the detergent tray area and runs down the front of the machine this happens when the machine is on a RINSE cycle, can anyone help please.

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stacey November 1, 2013 at 5:58 pm

Hi, I have a whirlpool washer, when the water drains after the spin cycle, I can still hear water. I checked the drain hose and the lines coming to and from the pump for cloges but found none. What else could it be?

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Brian October 26, 2013 at 8:50 am

I have an Amana clothes washer model# NAV5800AWW and serial #14638877GJ. First I washed a load of laundry and it went through all the cycles and when it switched to draining the water out I smelled a burnt smell. I stopped the washer, unplugged it, shut water off, drained all the water out with a shop vac, pulled all hoses off and cleaned them out, pulled motor and pump off and found a sock in my pump. This caused the pump to become stripped were the shaft of the motor attaches to pump. I thought i found the problem. I replaced the pump. The motor shaft again stripped the pump, w/o a sock plugging it, with one wash. Now I need to replace pump again and belt. What am I overlooking?

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Kris October 21, 2013 at 6:26 pm

I have a one year old Whirlpool front load. It’s leaking water from under the front bottom of the machine and I haven’t used it in almost a week. I’m kind of thinking I bought a lemon since I had to have a new computer board put in after only using it 3 times, and even though it’s only a year old, the warranty has now run out. Definitely unhappy with my Whirlpool:(

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Edith wager October 21, 2013 at 4:51 pm

I have a front loader lg trinn when they first came out,my question is it will not put water in the tub,I asked sears to come out 4 times they said notin is wrong with it

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Karie Fay November 10, 2013 at 1:51 am

Hi Edith.

Are you saying it won’t fill with water? If that’s the case, have you checked the section on problems filling your washer under the above title Wobbling, Filling, Draining and Leaks?

As mentioned there, if it’s not an inlet valve or control, it’s possible your hose is pinched or the water supply knob is off. Have you checked that?

I would suggest you have Sears come out and run a load for you. They should be willing to verify the machine works. Let me know if I can help you anymore.

Good luck,
Karie Fay

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Michelle October 17, 2013 at 9:03 am

My kenmore washer stopped spinning/agitating while still making a humming noise. I replaced the motor coupler and it work for a few cycles, but the washer stopped spinning again. Something is making the whole in the coupler round out. I think its the shaf from the motor or agitor doing that to the coupler. What does this mean? How can I repair my washer?

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Patsy October 17, 2013 at 7:04 am

I have a Kenmore washing machine…every time I turn it on to load it the water do comes on but it drains right back out.Can you help me?

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Ckn702 October 15, 2013 at 8:22 pm

My top loading GE washer hums when it goes into agitation mode… I took it apart and I have to spin the belt to get it started… Spinning works fine. Any ideas?

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Lupe October 13, 2013 at 2:57 pm

I stated having a problem getting my whirlpool washer to start once i pit the top down. Have to bang or slam the top to get it yo start. What could be the problem, wadher is abt 6 yrs old.

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Vera October 9, 2013 at 4:19 pm

Hi
My top loader washing machine drum drops when washer is filling up..Will wash but thats it..no draining or spinning is happening..can you help

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Chasity October 5, 2013 at 2:31 am

Hi. I have a really old Whirlpool Design 2000 top load washer… It works great except for the fact that the top of the agitator (marked super surgilator) comes loose during the cycle and bangs around in the tub. I’m new to machine anatomy/repair. What could be the problem?

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Robin September 22, 2013 at 11:58 pm

I have a Kenmore 90 Series top loader washer.(110.28922791/28922) Recently while washing a load of clothes I heard a load noise from the washer, smelled a burning smell and the washer stopped working. My husband changed the motor coupling. When we turned on the washer, it filled up but wouldn’t do anything else but hum. We are thinking it’s the drive motor or the transmission. Could you help us?
Thank you,
Robin

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Becky September 16, 2013 at 6:04 am

I have a GE top loader “Heavy Duty Super Capacity” washer. It’s probably at least 10 years old. We were having no trouble with it at all. We turned off the water supply to the house for other plumbing installations completely separate from the washer. (In fact, turned it off and on several times throughout the day.) Then went to start a load of wash and no water would flow into tub. There was the normal faint buzz of the pump but nothing else. We had cleared the air from the plumbing lines from all the nearby faucets and toilets, but still no change. Any suggestions?

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Roseann September 7, 2013 at 1:06 pm

I have a Whirlpool 4.0 cubic top loader washer…it has a white porcelain drum…the porcelain has worn off in the bottom of the basket so that the drain holes are chipped and rusty. This is a hassle so that you have to get to the clothes, whites especially, so that rust stains do not set in before you get them in to the dryer. Is there any way to correct this? Or is this simply, buy a new machine? It is well over 10 years old but, still works great! Except for the rusty bucket!!

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Carla September 23, 2013 at 12:52 pm

Very interested to hear what the reply was to this as I have the same problem and have ruined several white items!

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Lisa September 4, 2013 at 8:18 am

Hi…I have a front loader and last week the washing machine made a loud unnormal thumping sound during the spin cycle. ( NO its not unbalanced) This is still going on with every load. When its not the final spin and is just washing and rinsing there is a loud thump and squeaking noise and then the faster it spins the louder the thumping gets. Can anyone help me out?

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rey September 1, 2013 at 10:33 pm

i have a ge front load washing machine that will not advance after the 28 minutes
mark but wil go back to 31 minutes time & to 28 mins again.
Please i need your help.
Thanks

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Deann August 29, 2013 at 1:26 am

Hi I wonder if you can help. My whirlpool washing machine is spinning extremely slow on cycles when the water is in the drum and it will not spin a full circle. I have checked the belt in the machine and all is well, it is not too loose and hasn’t slipped. I have just tried putting the machine on a spin cycle only (not a wash) and the spin works fine? Unsure what the problem could be ??? Thanks for your help

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Randy August 27, 2013 at 11:52 pm

Hi,
I really need a help. While adding water manually to my washing machine, some fell into the side of the tub. After that I felt some electric shock when I touch the water in the tub. Now after removed the clothes and drained the water, I can hear some water sound under the washing tub. Please helpe to remove those water.

Thanks a lot

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Karie Fay August 30, 2013 at 12:48 am

Hi Randy,

That water is contacting electrical and mechanical parts. It’s an electric shock hazard! If you haven’t already, please unplug your washer and leave it unplugged until it’s completely dry.

You might be able to allow it to evaporate if it isn’t much. My concern is if it will work once it is dry. Wait a few days after the water is gone to be sure all moisture has had a chance to dry up. I would consider calling a professional, honestly. It just seems much safer to me.

Good luck,
Karie Fay

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rich warren August 25, 2013 at 1:44 am

I have just changed the brushes to a hoover Quattro 1100 washing machine but now noticed 2 wire (yellow/green) loose at the back of the motor as you look at it any help appreciated

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Lee August 24, 2013 at 8:30 pm

My agitator runs when the drum starts to spin.
Any ideas? It is an old Kenmore 70 series.

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Karie Fay August 30, 2013 at 1:37 am

Hi Lee,

Ouch! Sorry to hear about your problem. The agitator should not agitate when your washer goes into spin. In this case, I am afraid the transmission is probably bad. If it was spinning with the agitator going (in other words, it shouldn’t be spinning only agitating) I would say it’s the brake that stops the spin cycle malfunctioning. However, it sounds like it won’t stop agitating instead.

This might be an instance of needing a new washer.

Hope that helps,
Karie Fay

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Ariel August 24, 2013 at 10:05 am

I have a simple basic Whirlpool model top loader with an agitator…i’ve taken it apart and put new dogs in ..but sometimes i have to rescrew the bolt because the agitator comes off ..even in a small load..irritating lol but my question is. my clothes are not cleaning, i have to wash the same load several times. I’ve tried less soap, more soap, etc done it all.. i bought in 2011 so it’s not that old and no i didn’t get the extended warranty (stupid) I am really considering a new washer and dryer (dryer is fine) but i figured i’d get a set. Oh and the washer doesn’t have a soak cycle which kinda stinks for bleaching. Will a repair cost too much or should I just replace the whole thing? I like top loaders …and looking for a trustworthy brand that will last..whirlpool used to be good lol ..any suggestions on that part as well..
Thanks for help

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Karie Fay August 30, 2013 at 1:25 am

Hi Ariel,

From what I understand, the dogs or cams could be causing this problem. Did you replace the cams as well? Can you turn your agitator in both directions, or counterclockwise only? (If it turns in both, your dogs and cams are bad.)

I feel it’s worth repairing — even if you need someone to take a look. A new washer will run more than the repair bill, I believe. IF you choose to replace it, my best suggestion is to do your homework. Ask family and friends what they have and if they like it. Search the internet for reviews and complaints. And as for extended warranties… the truth is, they are meant to make the company money. Very few people actually collect on the warranty. However, some people do like the peace of mind of knowing they have it if they need it.

Good luck!
Karie Fay

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sandy chacon August 22, 2013 at 7:03 pm

I have a ge hydrowave top loaded washer, when I try to wash after the washer is full and the wash cycle start the agitator moves slowly and the whole drum jumps. The spin cycle works fine and the washer drained all out. We have already replaced the belt. What should we do next?

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Karie Fay August 30, 2013 at 1:18 am

Hi Sandy,

That’s a tough question. It sounds to me like it’s possibly one of several things. Since you already replaced the belt, it may be the motor coupler, soot on the clutch, a bad motor, pulley or transmission or even the pump coupling. Even though it spins, remember it’s much heavier when full of water.

I would suggest calling a repair service if you don’t know how to tear down the washer and check the parts. A good tech can also tell you if it’s worth fixing — some of those parts, with labor, become costly.

Hope that helps,
Karie Fay

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Rhonda August 7, 2013 at 10:05 am

I have a LG front load washer (WM1815CS). Why does it shut off after it fills up with water?

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Karie Fay August 23, 2013 at 12:25 pm

Hi Rhonda,

Does the washer hum after it fills, or does it make no sound at all? I can’t be certain, but there’s a few things that come to my mind. First, if it hums I would think it might be a belt (or a broken motor coupler if it’s direct drive instead of belt drive). If it makes no sound whatsoever, it might be a bad motor instead. Understand that the fill is totally separate from the agitation/spinning cycles where the motor must move the tub. You may want to have a technician take a look.

Hope this helps,
Karie Fay

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Julius July 28, 2013 at 6:21 am

We moved to a house with an old Inglis Superb, model VO-44083 top loading machine.
The machine goes into “mini-cycles” where, when it starts agitating, it immediately drains and then some 15 sec later its water level sensor detects the too low level and turns on the fill and turn the agitation off. Once the fill has done its job, it starts again its another mini-cycle to agitate and drain. It does it both in wash and rinse part of the normal cycle. When left alone, the timer allows it to get through the washing cycle, but that takes a very long time, as the fill portion of each mini-cycle is not “accounted for” in the timer cycle. Your advise on this problem would be appreciated.
The system has a higher than specified maximum drain height which does not seem to create a problem in the draining and therefore I am assuming is not the reason for the described problem.

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Andrea July 26, 2013 at 8:15 pm

Hello! I did a load of laundry tonight that ran normal and when I went to start the second one no water came out and the agitator started moving. We tried changing all the settings and it never changed. No water and the agitator just kept going. Any idea what this might be??
Thank you SO much!!!

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Emily August 28, 2013 at 8:18 am

I have the same exact problem. Did you ever figure out what it was?

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Emily August 28, 2013 at 8:26 am

My Kenmore 80 series washer agitates on every setting and will not fill with or water or even pretend to fill. However when I set it on rinse it seemed to finish out the cycle. So I tried to start it regularly again and it just keeps agitating. Any ideas. I saw another question like this that was never answered. Any ideas?

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Karie Fay August 30, 2013 at 1:08 am

Hi Andrea and Emily,

The good news is it shouldn’t be a high-dollar fix. Your washer sounds like it operates fine other than a lack of water. Try troubleshooting the problem:

Double check that the water supply valve is turned on.
Look at the water hose running to the washer. Is it pinched or kinked?
Unscrew the hose and look for the screen inside. Is it clogged?
Peek into the valve on the back of the washer where the hose connects. Is it clogged? (A turkey baster will suck out any gook.)
Unplug your washer and inspect the water valve. Are there any broken or damaged wires?

At this point, if everything checks out, it could be a bad water valve. When they go out, water can’t come in.

It’s also possible it’s a faulty water level switch or even a clogged hose going to the water level switch. You have to open the front panel and expose the tub to get to it. It’s a dome-shaped piece with a plastic hose running from it. A wire will clean out the tube. Try blowing through the hose and see if you hear a faint clicking sound. Make sure there isn’t any holes as you blow. Pinch off the free end and start your washer to see if it will fill now.

Good luck,
Karie Fay

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Margie July 24, 2013 at 12:23 am

Q: my old but dependable Maytag shuts off if I forget and put too heavy a load. During rinse, the machine will become unbalanced. When this happens, the washer shuts off, I have to manually remove wet laundry and scoop out all the water. Even then the washer will not restart. I have tried turning the fuse on and off. Still won’t start in any cycle. What is the remedy?

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Karie Fay August 23, 2013 at 12:17 pm

Hi Margie,

Did you happen to smell a burning rubber smell or anything else unusual? You didn’t mention the type of Maytag, but if it has a rubber belt, it’s very possible the belt has slipped, broke or otherwise been damaged. If you don’t mind getting a little dirty (or know someone who doesn’t) this isn’t an impossible DIY fix.

If you don’t find a broken belt, I would try calling either a service tech or the company and asking how to reset a machine that was overloaded. There may be a method particular to your machine, such as unplugging it, while it’s unplugged turning the dial to any cycle other than spin, then plugging it in again. Maytag customer service (1 (800) 344-1274) is open 8 am to 8 pm and they may know the exact problem.

Hope that helps,
Karie Fay

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james July 23, 2013 at 10:33 am

i have a maytag washer that does all the cycles except drain and spin mode. it makes a hummimg sound and then the washer cliks off to avoid short i guess. i lift the lid and then the washer will make one cliking sound which will let washer run again but it will not drain or spin the humming sound is acciaciated with a humming sound thanks jim

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Karie Fay August 23, 2013 at 12:02 pm

Hi Jim,

When my washer acted similarly, I tore it down enough to access the front of the tub, found the pump, disconnected the hoses and cleaned it (my son put a quarter through the washer and it lodged there, backing up hair, lint and such). The buzzing sound was my primary symptom, along with the lack of draining and spinning.

It’s also possible that you have a kink in a drain hose, the lid switch is bad, the pump itself is bad, or you have a broken belt. You can probably check these parts yourself if you’re handy. A voltmeter will confirm the pump is getting power, the belt is similar to that on a car, and the lid is pretty self-evident.

Hope this helps!
Karie Fay

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Phyllis Christiaens July 21, 2013 at 12:53 pm

Hi!
I have a Whirlpool Duet washer. It is under 4 years old and ever since I bought it I noticed it lets the fabric softner into the wash cycle. It is not a huge problem, but one I am hoping has an easy fix. Can you help with is?

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Karie Fay August 23, 2013 at 11:55 am

Hi Phyllis,

From what I see, a lot of owners complain that the Duet releases the fabric softener during the wash cycle. I don’t think any fix would be easy, unless you use dryer sheets or another type of softener delivery system. Before giving up, make sure you aren’t overfilling the softener and close it very carefully to ensure you don’t cause any to jump out. If that doesn’t help, I honestly suggest learning to live with it — a repair probably isn’t going to be cost effective, if the tech even knows how to fix it.

Good luck,
Karie Fay

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Tammy Cannon July 21, 2013 at 7:47 am

I have a washer that wont go through the spin cycle, however will spin if i get it going by manualy spinning it to get the water out of the cloths however sometimes the washer has had a little bit of water in the bottom of the tub before when doing cloths having to run it back through the spin cycle
to get all the water out of the cloths

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Kyle July 20, 2013 at 8:01 am

hi I got a hoover vhd944d-80 washing machine I didn’t take the transit bolts out and they broke out when I done x amout of washes the hole washing machine rumbles when on a rapid spin and as comes to a hult is very loud rumbling/banging can anyone advise me wat I can do to fix this problem

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Ellen July 19, 2013 at 6:09 am

I have a new washer that only seems to use hot water (HOT! as in, steaming) no matter what temperature the cycle is set to. Had no such problem with the old washer. Both hot and cold faucets are turned on, so not sure what the problem is.

There’s a possibility that our faucets may be reversed (ie, hot water faucet seems to be located on the right) but, if that turns out not to be the problem, what could be the problem?

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Karie Fay July 19, 2013 at 11:31 pm

Hi Ellen,

You say it’s a new washer? If so, it’s unlikely that it’s a faulty temperature sensor or a bad timer. The first thing I would do is check your hoses. Make sure the cold is cold (be careful!). If they are fine, then work from there. Is the cold line kinked? Is the screen at the end clogged with scale or rust? Last of all, check the mixing valve. However, I am keeping my fingers crossed on your hookups. Check how the hose runs while you’re there — you don’t want it dipping below the washer water level.
Hope that helps!
Karie Fay

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larry July 11, 2013 at 1:18 pm

My washing machine is not taking in the powder. I have checked the hose and there is no blockage in the hose. I have also replaced the solenoid valve for the hot water inlet and i have checked the hose to the drum and that is clear as well. Please advise what is the possible cause of the problem. My machine is a Creda excell1200

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Karie Fay July 19, 2013 at 11:15 pm

Hi Larry,

I don’t have a lot of experience with this type of washer. However, from what I read, you’ve covered the basics. A faulty water inlet valve could cause this, as can not having the cold and hot supplies turned on. I would suggest opening the powder drawer a little bit while your washer is filling and look for water. If there isn’t any, it’s usually the inlet valve, and I would check it with a resistance meter. The other things are the opening in the powder drawer or the tube that carries the powder into the drum. Try double checking everything. If nothing else, maybe use the detergent tablets that you add right to the wash.

Good luck!
Karie Fay

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joanie July 4, 2013 at 9:09 am

Hi thanks in advance for any help you can give. I have a Kenmore 80 series washer and water still dribbles in after washer goes to next mode. It dribbles after filling up to wash, then when it spins you can hear water going in and when it starts to rinse and when it is finished the entire cycle. The only way to get it to stop is to turn valve off which probably needs a new washer because it drips on the floor when I turn it off to get it to stop dribbling into washer!. Once in a while it stops on its own but I have to constantly watch it to make sure it does not overflow as it did once in the past. The washer I had before this one started the same thing before I got rid of it. We have a well and I have to constantly clean filter screen behind cold water hose especially after a rain. Could it just be clogged up behind the drum? thanks again. Blessings………

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Karie Fay July 10, 2013 at 10:43 pm

Hi Joanie,

When your washer won’t stop filling, it can be the water level switch (discussed in the article). However, in your case, I tend to believe it’s probably the water inlet valve.

With the power off, first remove the back of the washer to uncover where the hoses connect to the washer. Then (with the water turned off!) loosen and remove the water supply hoses. Where they connect to the washer you will see your valves. With what you describe about cleaning the filter, I am wondering if it’s simply clogged. However, at this point you can also replace it. If that doesn’t solve the problem, I would have the solenoid — the electrical component of the valves — tested and replace as necessary.

You can also distinguish which is causing the problem by unplugging the washer and seeing if it still dribbles. If so, it’s mechanical not electrical.

Hope this helps!
Karie Fay

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KA July 2, 2013 at 8:46 am

Hi,

I have a seven year old Maytag washer and the drum has come loose. Is this going to be an expensive repair? I can’t move it to get the serial number, but was told they need that to determine the machine. I bought the second to lowest model available and if the repair is going to be around $200 or so, I’d rather scrap the machine and replace it. In the meantime, can I try using it, or will there be more damage caused? Thank you!

K

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Karie Fay July 19, 2013 at 10:34 pm

Hi KA,

Hope I am not to late to help. If you haven’t done anything yet, don’t continue using the machine. I really don’t have enough information to say for sure what is wrong, but there’s a good chance it involves the bearing and seal kit. This is a complicated repair. Even if I am wrong, if you hire it done I believe you’re likely to pay more than the washer is really worth — you can get used washers that work for $200 or less in many areas. If you can tell me exactly what it is doing and get more specific I may be able to pinpoint it further.

Hope that helps!
Karie Fay

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Kerri Freeman June 27, 2013 at 9:51 pm

I have a matag Legacy Series that is about 10 years old and about 3 weeks ago I had put a load of wash in and after about 5 minutes the machine completely shut off. I went to check it and everything seemed fine so I turned it off and then started it from where it stopped it ran for maybe a min and stopped again . I tried to unplug it etc and plug it in again and restart it from where it stopped and again it stopped after a minute or two .. The whole load went this way .. Can u please tell me what might be wrong and is it worth fixing as I really can’t afford a new machine right now ..

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Karie Fay July 19, 2013 at 11:00 pm

Hi Kerri,

I can’t be sure on this one, but it’s possible it’s the washing machine control board. It looks like it costs somewhere around $200 for just the part. As old as your washer is, I don’t think it’s really worth it IF I am correct.

I would check the lid close switch first, just in case. And I suppose it’s possible that it’s the timer — but I think both of these are long shots. I would honestly suggest you find a friendly local repairman and pick his brain a little. Call and tell him what it’s doing and ask “Do you think it’s the control board?” I am betting you can find someone to verify it.

You might consider spending that $200 on a new or used machine instead. I know it sucks — but so do laundromats.

Hope this helps,
Karie Fay

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Johnnie June 22, 2013 at 9:03 am

Is there a website that shows how to get the console off the top of a Kenmore series 400 washer?

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Karie Fay June 30, 2013 at 8:26 pm

Hi Johnnie,

YouTube is usually a good source of videos to show you how to do things. Just do a search, on YouTube, for Kenmore direct drive (the type you have — direct drives lack a belt) and I think you’ll find a visual guide you’ll find helpful. My search pulled up a video by Repair Clinic entitled “Whirlpool/Kenmore Direct Drive Assembly” at the top of the list.

As for how to do it…. You should be able to pop the end caps, on either side of the console, free from the console. Underneath you will find screws that, once removed, allow you to flip the console up and away from the main portion of the washer. Occasionally, you’ll find clips that hold the console in place instead.

Hope this helps,
Karie Fay

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Alisa June 22, 2013 at 5:16 am

My GE washer runs fine, but last night it leaked from the bottom (all over my carpet). I noticed the other day that the water level looked way too high, when it was filled up. Is this an easy fix? Do you know what is causing this?

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Lillie Morris June 22, 2013 at 12:11 am

Hi Karey,

I have a frigidaire gallery top load washer it has been working fine until my 9yr old decided her and her cousins were going to wash while I’m sleeping now don’t laught but the part in the middle doesn’t move for example it’s in the spin cycle but sounds as if its rinsing the whole time because the middle part don’t move any suggestions?

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Lillie Morris June 22, 2013 at 12:01 am

I have a frigidaire gallery top load washer it has been working perfectly fine until my 9yr old decides she’s going to try and wash while I’m sleeping. Basically all the cycles work don’t laugh you guys but the thing in the middle that mixes up the clothes will not move. For example because the thing in the middle wont move its on spin cycle but sounds like its continuing to rinse when it’s actually spinning. So I need help on what could possibly be the causes…..

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Ken June 15, 2013 at 4:49 pm

Trying to determine if it is possible to obtain internal replacement parts for GE washer timer, rather than replacing the entire timer. If so, trying to find an exploded view of the internal workings of the timer to compare with the actual parts.
Thank you.

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Nichole June 10, 2013 at 7:14 pm

I have a Speed Queen top loading washer. When I turn the timer/selector switch to choose the wash cycle most of the time nothing will happen. If I keep turning the knob one cycle at a time, eventually one of them will start. Also, once started, sometimes it will keep going through each and every cycle on the washer. So, it would go throught the regular wash, rinse, spin and then the perm press wash, rinse, spin, then the delicate wash, rinse, spin, etc. until I catch it after the spin and open the lid. Which part do you think is malfunctioning? Please help!!

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mostafa June 10, 2013 at 6:52 am

hi,,my lg intello washer in drain cycles makes loud noises ,do i need to replace the pump? thank you .

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MRS SOHNS June 2, 2013 at 10:14 am

THE KNNOB ON MY ‘GIBSON’ WASHING FRONT LOADER CAME OFF,ACTUALLY BROKE OFF.I CALLED THE COMPANY’ FRIDGITAIRE’ AND THEY TOOK ALL OF THE INFORMATION,AND SENT ME A NEW KNOB.IT WAS NOT THE SAME MODEL OR SERIAL NO THAT I GAVE THEM,ELECTROLUX SENT THE KNOB,AND I CAN NOT GET THE OLD MIDDLE PART OF THE KNOB OFF.MODEL #GWT445RG51 &SERIAL NO X092558962.THEY SENT ME A ENTIRELY DIFFERENT MODEL NO AND SERIAL.I CAN NOT GET THE OLD PART OUT. THANK YOU MRS SOHNS

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larry May 31, 2013 at 2:16 pm

at the end of the spin cycle there is a loud noise.

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Chris May 30, 2013 at 3:12 pm

Having drama with my Beko machine.
Basically it’s *really* loud and whiny when revolving. After taking off th back and rotating by hand, I’ve tracked the problem down to what appears to be some kind of dark tape or cellophane rattling around inside the motor? (the thing the belt is attached to that isn’t the drum) having an effect similar to playing cards in bike spokes.

I pulled a small piece out but can still make out some quite deep in there. I can’t get the component out due to large star screws.

I’m also unsure as to how the foreign stuff got in there, has it come away from the lining or coils or something?

Any help appreciated. it feels like a simple fix made harder just by inaccessability.
Cheers.

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brian May 25, 2013 at 8:41 am

Timer knob on hoover AC272 is broken and spares are no longer available. I can get a non-standard knob but how do i fit it? timer shaft is round with a flat on it. Where should flat be at the end of the cycle?
Pity to scrap a good machine because of such a simple fault.

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Karie Fay May 26, 2013 at 12:20 am

Hi Brian,

Oh no, don’t scrap it!

I’m not sure if I’m understanding your question correctly. The timer control knob – with which you start your machine and select the cycle – fits onto the shaft that protrudes from the control panel. If you don’t have the matching knob, you won’t be able to read the settings to determine which cycle it is in. However, the inside of the knob, if it fits the shaft, will have a matching flat area. So it’s just a matter of aligning the two and pushing it on. Am I missing something?

I think I have an easier option for you – just get a knob that fits the AC272. Are you in the United States? I found a replacement 4Hoover – it’s likely to be the first listing in your search results. It’s a United Kingdom address. Anyway, they CURRENTLY have the Hoover AC272 Control Knob in stock. I also found one on the UK eBay that just sold — so I am thinking they get listed occasionally.

May I suggest going that route? It seems like it’s the best way to ensure you have exactly the right settings with no hassle. As you said, if it works, it still has life in it, so why waste the washer over a knob?

Good luck,
Karie Fay

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TONJIA May 23, 2013 at 9:35 am

Hi, I have a top load washer and it was given to me I dnt know how old it is but it is a gallery and I’m having problems w it now. Well it runs but when its time to rinse it makes a humming noise and it don’t spin at all but makes that same humming noise and also the water is not draining and it leaking from the bottom. Can u please help me.

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EBGWd August 23, 2013 at 6:55 pm

I had the same problem.
It was the switch on the lid.
I took a screw driver and stuck it down in the switch and it would spin and drain, until the switch completely broke.
Ordered the part from Sears – Kenmore.
Shorted the circuit and bypassed the switch till the new part came in.
Installed new switch and it works great now.

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Mary May 23, 2013 at 2:36 am

Hi my washing maching is not filling with water. We changed the water inlet valves and still no joy. The machine is making noise when you turn it on but not getting the message to open valves. Any ideas

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Karie Fay July 5, 2013 at 4:18 am

Hi Mary,

I am wondering if there’s a blockage of some sort that isn’t allowing the water to flow through. Have you double-checked that the water controls are turned on? Try disconnecting the supply hoses and verifying that the water is coming out with sufficient strength. Also try running hot water and cold water cycles to see if the problem is with one or the other. Other than the fill valves, it could be a bad water pressure switch — if it thinks it’s already full, it won’t fill more. However, I lean toward a clogged filter on your supply hoses or such due to the noise.

Hope that helps,
Karie Fay

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Elaine May 22, 2013 at 2:33 pm

Hi
I need help please my washer is backing up at times when in drains just before the spin cycle, I lift the top and the water goes down the pipe I close the lid and it happens again probably 5 times and then it drain perfect the rest of the cycle.
Thank You!!!!

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David May 19, 2013 at 9:09 am

Hey! My machine is leaving grease spots on clothes. Now I see some grease-looking substance coming from underneath the agitator. Is that a bearing seal? Thanks in advance.

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Karie Fay May 25, 2013 at 9:57 pm

Hi David,

I am curious if you have looked underneath the washer itself, at your floor. I am thinking of two possibilities with your washing machine. One, as you suggested, is the bearing/transmission seal. It can cause grease to appear under the agitator and on your clothes, but it may leak onto the floor underneath your washer as well.

The second possibility that comes to my mind is a buildup of liquid fabric softener, if you use the dispenser at the top of the agitator. Between there and the tub, the system can become gunked up and even appear underneath the agitator as a dark-colored, oily substance. To distinguish between the two causes is simple – try hand-washing a grease spot on your clothes. Fabric softener will come out with a little work – transmission grease will not.

If you’re fairly handy, you can probably fix the problem yourself. You will need to pull the agitator and disassemble the washer most of the way – but you’ll save a ton in labor, and the parts are fairly inexpensive. You don’t want to leave it as it is. It won’t take long to ruin the transmission left as it is.

Hope that helps,
Karie Fay

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Bryan Lunsford May 16, 2013 at 7:11 pm

My washing machine has been washing just fine, but today while near the start of the rinse cycle it filled up with water but didn’t spin at all and made some almost grinding sound like the sound of a chain running along gears. Any idea how to fix or what it could be? I switched it to spin cycle but it still wouldn’t spin or anything

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cindy May 13, 2013 at 7:30 pm

I have a kenmore elite front loader and today when my son did hid laundry a metal piece came out of the rubber front piece that seals the door shut and lets the tub spin. It tore the rubber a little but I cant figure out how to attach the wire piece or where it goes. Any help would be great

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Jose May 9, 2013 at 12:17 pm

I have a ge washer top. My washer stays on the same cycle and it just keeps going and going. Don’t matter what cycle you turn it to it stays on that cycle.

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Karie Fay July 5, 2013 at 4:08 am

Hi Jose,

Have you resolved your washer’s issue? I am suspecting it’s a problem with the timer switch, which is located right behind the dial. If you pull it loose and see burnt looking contacts, you can be sure it’s bad. It’s fairly easy to replace, luckily. Does your washer advance to other cycles manually?

Hope that helps,
Karie Fay

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matt May 7, 2013 at 7:44 am

i have a maytag front loader washing machine when it runs, it drains at the same time. so it stops, and it says on the screen that it does not have enough water. please what can i do to fix this problem?

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John Hendrickson May 5, 2013 at 3:07 pm

We have a six year old Whirlpool Duet (front loader). It is doing the exact same thing as Sharon P’s problem. This has happened several times in the past. Those times my wife would hear the buzzing noise and then shut it down and restart the machine and it would then cycle as normal. This last time that would not “reset” it or fix the problem. Now we have a washer sitting with water in it.

Is this an expensive fix? We paid close to $900 just six years ago. Or is it time to bite the bullet and just get a new washer?

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sharon p May 4, 2013 at 12:26 am

Hi I put a load of clothes in, my washer filled fine and began to wash. I had to leave the house and when I came back the cycle was done but there was still water. I pushed the button in and turned it to start the cycle again but the motor sounded like something was preventing it from workinf, in other words it comes on but nothing happens, it sounds like it may be bound up and can’t complete the cycle, it kinda growls like its straining . I thought maybe something had gotten caught around the agitator so I removed The clothes it didn’t help. I hope I am describing the problem right and someone can help me. What could it be and how can it be fixed?

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sharon p May 4, 2013 at 12:29 am

It still has water in it because it basically wont kick in it just strains to start

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Karie Fay June 30, 2013 at 8:34 pm

Hi Sharon,

You said the cycle was done… Is it washing but not spinning or draining, then? If so, it could be a drain problem…. I had to tear my own washer apart to find the pump (which makes the water drain) was clogged with lint due to a coin my son let go through the wash…. If you can give more details, I may be able to help you more.

Good Luck!
Karie Fay

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Michelle Kezele May 3, 2013 at 9:04 pm

Hi Karie,

Out of no where the other day, I removed my clothes from the washing machine and noticed near the back, one or two items were really wet. Since that day, after every completed load, the washer slowly fills with clean water. It is a front loader whirlpool duet HT. It is no more than 3 years old. I appreciate your help.

Sincerely,
Michelle

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Jerry B June 4, 2013 at 2:37 pm

hi Michelle,

I have the same problem as you do with my washer. I believe it’s a seal inside the washer by where the hoses come in. I’m about to tear it apart and replace it, I’ll let you know how it goes.

B

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Karie Fay June 21, 2013 at 2:43 am

Hi Jerry,

How did your repair go for you? I am curious about your results. Please do let us know.

Thanks,
Karie Fay

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Karie Fay June 21, 2013 at 2:52 am

Hi Michelle,

The most frustrating thing about appliances is all the potential causes when something goes wrong. In your case, I suspect the problem is a bad water valve. If you have hard water, it could be merely a buildup of deposits that prevent the valve from working properly. You’ll need to get into the washer cabinet to get to this.

Another possibility is a bad computer control unit. But I would definitely check out the water valve first. If you’re handy you can probably do it yourself.

Hope that helps,
Karie Fay

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donna May 3, 2013 at 11:53 am

i have a Kenmore wssher the problem is when the washer is not on and filling when I use cold water it runs into the machine so I hve to keep the cold water shut off if not it fills the tub when its not running what is the problem anyone know

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Wendy May 1, 2013 at 7:48 pm

I have a Hoover 700LA top loader. When you open the lid, on the right side is a grey lever/hook that sits in an oval shaped gadget, this lever/hook is what tells the machine whether the lid is open or closed so that when it is closed it knows it can start the washing process. My problem is that the lever/hook has totally come out and I need to know how to put it back. Please Help !!!!

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Tracy April 28, 2013 at 9:30 pm

Hi,, I have a 12 year old ge top load washer, gjsr2130aww. It’s worked great until now. Now leaves lots!.. of lint on clothes. manual indicates it has a lint free filter under the agitator but does not require cleaning. Took agitator off, but do not see a filter of any kind. Took front off ,, nothing that looked like filter. It’s driving me crazy.. clothes come out dirtier that when they went in, and it’s definately lint. Washer drains fine and spins fine.. any thoughts.
thx!..

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Ian May 13, 2013 at 6:46 am

I bought a Simpson. first wash it did the same,not done a second wash yet, don’t expect an improvement. lint on clothes, might be one without filter as mentioned in How to repair wm’s.

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Denise Jones April 28, 2013 at 1:24 pm

Hello,
The problem I’ve had lately with my washing machine is that when on the spin cycle it doesnt spin out all of the water from the clothes—I did a test run by running the machine with no clothes in it (to make sure all of the water was draining)…all water drained. I’m thinking maybe something is stuck uder agitator (I’ve felt underneath and cant locate anything that way)…should I remove agitator and check for something, say a sock or whatever?

thanks,
Denise

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Karie Fay June 21, 2013 at 2:36 am

Hi Denise,

If you’re still having problems with your washer, it’s probably a bad clutch. You can try checking your drain line as well as the water pump inside and make sure they aren’t clogged. Typically, however, a washer that doesn’t get clothes dry during spin has a slipping clutch. It’s probably not a job for the typical DIYer, however. How old is your machine? I would estimate the repair between $150 and $200 — your experience may vary.

Hope that helps,
Karie Fay

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Elysia April 27, 2013 at 6:49 am

The clear water hose inside my top loading GE washer bangs on the inside wall of the washer during the wash cycle. What is the best method of securing this hose to the inside wall of the washer so that the hose doesn’t get knocked against the wall by the center canister with each back and forth agitation. Thanks!

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Brian April 25, 2013 at 5:08 pm

I have a Maytag Centenial top load washer (mvwc6esww1). It’s about 3.5 yrs old. The cycles don’t seem to match the knob. When I turn on the normal cycle it starts agitating immediately and then filling water. Before it used to fill a bit, then agitate and fill and then agitate until cycle end. The wash agitation cycle seems shorter and at the end of the spin cycle, it adds about 5 seconds of water. So the clothes come out soaking wet. Seems like the end of adding water should have been at the beginning of the cycle. Any thoughts?

As a stop-gap, I’m running the spin cycle, but stopping it manually at the end just before the water starts to turn on. Clothes turn out just about dry, but there does seem to be water in the washer, but under the drum(?). No leaks so far.

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Karie Fay June 21, 2013 at 2:23 am

Hi Brian,

I suspect it could be your timer. I would suggest contacting Maytag and finding the replacement timer, and picking their brains while you have the opportunity. It’s a simple repair, and the timer is cheaper than a new washer for sure!

Hope that helps,
Karie Fay

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Terrie April 25, 2013 at 7:22 am

I am so thankful for this site. I had a problem with our front loader and discovered it was just the drain that needed cleaning. I never even knew there was such a thing! Thanks for the savings on the service call.

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Noel Chavez April 18, 2013 at 7:48 pm

Wow! Awesome stuff! Hopefully you can help me. I have a maytag model no. LAT8624AAE. It fills up, but I have to manually turn the timer to make it function. For instance, I start the load, it fills up, then I have to turn it to spin (it doesn’t agitate at all), then I have to turn it back around to final rinse, and finally to spin again. I assume its my timer, but how do I proceed in repairing without wasting my money? Thanks so much. Wonderful information!

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Karie Fay May 25, 2013 at 10:49 pm

Hi Noel,

Thanks for the comment! Sorry for the delay in replying – are you still having problems with your Maytag washer?

My first instinct is that your timer is malfunctioning. However, when you say it doesn’t agitate, are you saying the wash cycle doesn’t work even when you manually turn the dial? In some cases, this can actually indicate a problem with the cold water supply system. Specifically, requiring a new temperature-control circuit board.

On the other hand, it could be a timer malfunction. Either way, the parts are somewhat pricey – likely between $100 and $150. Both are also located in your washer’s control panel, so getting to the part is easy.

To decide which it is, I would suggest watching the motor when you turn your dial. If the motor turns, I would be tempted to suspect the cold water circuit rather than the timer. Also, if you have a volt-ohm meter, set it to the RX1 setting and test your timer’s contacts. There should be a cycle sequence on the side of the timer or possibly on the back of the control console. Or, take the timer to a service professional/parts store and see if they will test it for you.

Hope that helps,
Karie Fay

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Vyron April 17, 2013 at 8:26 am

I have a Kenmore Model 20712990 washer that will not spin. It agitates okay, but when it moves to the spin cycle, the machine simply does nothing. There is no sound of a motor running or anything. What might be the problem?

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Karie Fay June 21, 2013 at 2:20 am

Hi,

When a washer won’t spin but agitates there are many potential causes. In my experience, the most common is something preventing the washer from draining. If it can’t drain, it won’t advance to spin either. Try looking at the drain hose and inside the washer, at the pump, if needed. It connects to the drain line at back and to the tub. A coin, excessive lint or other objects may have blocked it.

It’s also possible for a bad timer to prevent spinning. Or your motor could simply be bad — in which case it’s time for a new washer. If you can’t find a drain problem it might be time to call a repairman.

Hope that helps!
Karie Fay

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Denise Spinosa April 8, 2013 at 12:55 pm

My washsing machine is leaking from the bottom. It does not empty water on the spin cycle if it is a extra large or large load. It will empty out on a med or small load, although it still leaks. It is a Maytag Legacy Series top load. Do you have any ideas. Machine was bought 6 years ago. Thanks

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Karie Fay May 25, 2013 at 2:18 am

Hi Denise,

If you’re still hanging in there with your washer, I would suggest you look closer at your drain hose first as it’s the easiest fix. If it’s blocked, kinked or even inserted into the drain wrong, it could possibly cause the symptoms you describe. While cracked, leaky tubs and poor tub seals can also cause water leakage, neither would cause you to have problems with draining water. Same with the bearings.

More likely, in my opinion, is your water pump is going out. It’s a fairly inexpensive part, and if you or someone you know has an hour or two and some courage, it’s not difficult to change out.

Hope this helps,
Karie Fay

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Robin April 5, 2013 at 6:52 am

Karie,

I hope you can help me. My washer is not agitating at all. Nor spinning on the spin cycle. I took apart the agitator looking for string or caught clothing etc. I did not find anything so cleaned everything and reassembled it. I am thinking it’s a belt or something. This is a Kenmore model 110.24872300. serial #CR1426523.

Any recommendations? Is this something that I can manage myself or should I call in the pros?

Thanks so much!

Robin

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Tracy April 28, 2013 at 9:35 pm

hi,, not sure if your washer is a top load,, but if it is,, check in the lid,,mine had a little plastic tab in the lid that when closed would sit inside an oval hole on the deck of the washer. causing the washer to spin, its a $2.00. part.
:) hope this helps.

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Karie Fay May 25, 2013 at 2:05 am

Hi Robin!

I agree, it sounds like a lid switch failure to me. I assume it fills, but nothing past that – am I correct? And it will drain? As Tracy said, it’s an inexpensive part and an easy fix. You can replace it yourself – and have bragging rights! Let me know if you have any other questions.

Best wishes,
Karie Fay

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Jim Wilkie April 2, 2013 at 9:21 am

Our Maytag washer, purchased in 2003 works fine, except that at the end of the wash cycle there is a loud clunk or thunking noise. What would cause this noise? Does the drum have a bake or clamp on the drive belt that snaps when the cycle is complete and how can this be fixed?

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Karie Fay May 25, 2013 at 1:51 am

Hi Jim,

If you’re still having problems with your washer, I would suggest looking at the transmission system. Specifically, either the direct drive coupling may be going out, the clutch, or maybe a coupling between the motor and transmission. I am thinking basket drive/brake assembly failure. Is there excessive tub movement? That’s a classic symptom. The coupling, on the other hand, tends to wear out under hard use – continuous overloading for a long period of time generally.

The coupling is easy to replace – I guided my brother-in-law through the repair about a month ago. The drive/brake, on the other hand, is difficult, time-consuming and expensive. I just priced one assembly for Maytag at a little less than $150.

My suggestion? As much as you probably hate to, use it until it won’t go anymore and, in the meantime, save up for a new washer. At 10 years old, you’ve gotten a good amount of use from it.

Hope that helps,
Karie Fay

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Bob March 28, 2013 at 11:24 am

My washer is vibrating when it goes on spin. The load is not out of balance. I was thinking it may be the motor plate, but its just a guess. Can you please help me?
Bob

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Karie Fay April 18, 2013 at 5:38 pm

Hi Bob!

I am curious what make and model of washer you have, and if it’s front-loading or top-loading. Some newer, front-loading washers are known for obnoxious vibrations during spin cycles — so much so that others are selling ant-vibration pads and other products that don’t really seem to much work.

Assuming you have a top loading washer instead, and that this is a new problem, you might check a few different things.

You say the load isn’t out of balance. Have you tried running a spin cycle with only water — no detergent and no clothes? It’s a great diagnostic to ensure the soap or even the clothes weight isn’t causing a problem.

Another quick check — look at the leveling feet under the washer. If it isn’t level (verify with a carpenter’s level) or if the feet are extended too far, meaning the washer is setting high off the floor, you will get vibrations. Even a weak subfloor can cause problems. Does the floor give in that area? Has there been water damage, such as from a leaking pipe?

And then there’s the suspension system. If the springs are broken, loose, or missing, it can cause excessive vibration. This could happen with age. Yes, it could be the motor plate as well — or even missing weights.

Without knowing the type of washer, I can’t really get more specific. At this point, I would suggest you remove the outer cabinet and look at each part of the suspension. Springs are fairly cheap, so you could try replacing them first. Take a look at the other things as well — the floor, feet, etc. Hopefully it’s something simple!

Good luck!
Karie Fay

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wilson March 22, 2013 at 5:42 am

As soon as i turn my lg washing machine on it blows all the fuses in the house, do i need to call engineer out or is this a common fault that i can fix myself?

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Karie Fay April 18, 2013 at 1:07 pm

Hi Wilson.

Thanks for the question. I can suggest a couple things for you to check, but you may need to have an electrician look deeper if that doesn’t help.

Obviously the machine is drawing too much power for the fuse box. Did this start suddenly? Has anything changed to possibly account for this? You can try plugging the machine in elsewhere, if the wiring is 110. You can also look in the control panel and see if you spot any scorched marks or crossed wiring. The circuit board in particular will look black if it needs replaced.

Other than that, I suggest at the very least you have someone with a multimeter test your washer. Or call a technician. Wiring is complex and dangerous, so I don’t suggest you mess with it yourself.

Hope that helps,
Karie Fay

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Ben March 17, 2013 at 1:25 pm

I have a Kenmore tandem washer/drier machine. I was washing towels a few days ago, had to go and get something from my car, when the machine was in the spin cycle, and when I came back, I heard probably the loudest banging sound. Obviously, the water-saturated towels had moved around, causing the machine to be unbalanced. Usually when this happens, I just open it and redistribute the contents. This time, I didn’t get to it in time. The entire drum assembly has become dislodged from its setting within the outer washing machine housing/frame. The best way to describe it is lower than it should be, and tilted noticeably to one direction, right now toward the rear right. I think the whole drum assembly became dislodged due to the continued unbalanced load. I tried lifting the drum up a few inches, and turned/rotated it until I could let go of it, and it would stay upright, in a position that it would be if everything in it was okay. Then, with no load, I turned the dial around to the spin phase of the cycle, and the mechanical components operated as they would, when empty. I then turned the dial to off, opened it again, and pushing the drum, not weakly, but not too forcefully, to see if the drum was secure, just to see if it might hold up with a full load of laundry. With not too much force, it became unseated again, and fell back to the position it was in before. I don’t want to rotate it until it looks good, like I did above, then try it with a load of laundry, because I don’t want the drum assembly, while shaking to cause damage to hoses or wiring.

Essentially this is a problem caused by an unbalanced load that was not stopped quickly enough. Do you have any suggestions? Will I need to call in a repair service? How is the drum anchored into the washing machine unit? If it comes lose or comes out, can it be easily fixed?

Thanks.

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Mike K March 25, 2013 at 1:23 pm

I had the exact same problem last week and fixed it today myself. First, I unplugged the machine and then removed two screws in back that held the top of the washer on(lid and all). From the front, slide the top, lid and all, towards you and it will slide out of the clips in front. The wires from the shut off will still be connected to the top so be careful. If you want, you can now remove the front , held on by two screws inside the cabinet, but it might not be necessary. Now you can see down inside and there are three supports from the tub that slip into springs mounted on the bottom of the cabinet. One support on my machine had popped out, so I just lifted the tub and set the support back in place. There is a plastic sleeve on the spring that had slipped down, and I slid it back up as far as I could, and reassembled everything.I’ve done one load and so far so good… Good Luck!

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Karie Fay April 18, 2013 at 12:49 pm

Hi Ben,

From what you describe, I agree it’s likely that either one of the tub shock/springs is broken or simply came loose. It appears older Kenmore tandems (you didn’t mention the age of yours) have a habit of the shocks/springs coming loose. Newer models, on the other hand, have a washer base with grooves that hold the suspension spring assembly more securely in place. You can get a replacement base, but with labor you’re looking at at least $300-$400.

I would try what Mike K suggested…. open the washer housing and see if you can’t reseat the springs. If it gets you by, it’s much better than spending too much money on a used machine and you have a little more time before worrying about replacing it.

Hope that helps!
Karie Fay

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Ben Macaluso March 7, 2013 at 6:09 am

I recently moved a kenmore washer out of storage and into a new apartment. When I hooked the washer up and ran a cycle I could here the water flowing, the tank filled though water was spewing from the inside back of the unit. Please can someone help me fix this problem? Much thanks!

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Karie Fay April 18, 2013 at 12:34 pm

Hi Ben,

Spewing isn’t good. Does it leak only during the fill cycle? Or is it leaking the whole time you wash the clothes? The more detail you provide me, the easier I can pinpoint potential causes. Without looking at it, however, I have some things I can suggest.

If it was me, I would open up the cabinet so you can see the washer’s guts. You should be able to remove a couple of screws and tilt the control panel up, unhook the white wire harness connection, then detach the washer cabinet with either screws or clips.

Once you have the cabinet removed, use a flashlight to investigate the washer’s parts. Look for streaks of rust, which will outline the path the water usually takes, or pooling water. You might even try running a load and watching to see where the water emerges.

Honestly, almost any place on a washer is a leak waiting to happen, so to speak. That said, I would look at the pump, in particular, along with the hoses that connect it to the tub and to the drain. Pumps are notorious for springing leaks and such and are a very cheap part. With it setting up in storage — not sure the time or temperatures involved but, storage can be hard on rubber hoses and gaskets.

I would also take a quick look at inlet hoses, the drain hose, water mixing valve, and at the tub stem, as the seal there can go bad. That is a difficult repair — but not impossible — and the others are fairly simple as well. About the only one that’s serious is if your tub is rotted and you need to replace it — you’re better off replacing the washer in that case.

Get under there and take a look. I think you’ll spot the problem.

Hope that helps!
Karie Fay

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Linda Hunt March 3, 2013 at 8:09 am

What is wrong if your washing machine sounds like its filling up but its not. Where is the water going. Someone please help me

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Karie Fay April 12, 2013 at 12:13 pm

Hi Linda,

Have you found any evidence of water on the floor, however slight? If not, then whatever noise you think sounds like the washer is filling is something else. So right off the bat we know something is keeping the water from entering your tub — we just need to find out what.

Let’s start with the simplest causes first.

Set your washer to a wash cycle and try running hot water first. If it works, try the cold water setting. If only one or neither temperature works, make sure the faucets are turned on completely. Take a glance at the supply hoses, running from the faucets to the back of the washer, and make sure they are not kinked or caught between objects that pinch them closed.

Next, turn off both faucets and unscrew the hoses at the faucet. Drain them into a pail to eliminate standing water. Then, turn on the faucets (one at a time) slowly, holding them over the pail to see if water flows and has good pressure. If you don’t get any water, you have narrowed down your cause. If you do get water, proceed to the next step.

Unscrew the hoses where they connect to the inlet valves on the washer. Remove and clean the screen filters inside the hose ends (sometimes in the valve instead). You may need to use a screwdriver to get the screen out — don’t bend them — and flush under running water. Replace the screens if they are in bad shape. Then reassemble the screen/hose connections and test the washer.

I tend to think you will find the problem lies in the last possibility I mention — a faulty inlet valve. The inlet valve is activated by a solenoid that supplies it with enough power to make it open to allow the water to flow in and fill the washer. If the solenoid is bad, or the valve, you’re not going to get water. You may hear a humming sound however.

A water level switch, timer or temperature selector may also cause the washer to fill. However, I think you will find the problem in the inlet valve. It’s right there at the back of the machine with the supply hoses and you can probably fix it yourself.

Hope that helps!
Karie Fay

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davide wong March 1, 2013 at 10:13 am

Problem. my belt just got loose, and it seems to be really hard do put the belt on the correct place, since the belt doesn’t stretch at all. wondering if you have a solution for me…. my wash machine doesn’t have any panel to remove, and i can’t barly toutch anything under the washer…. wonder how can i insert the belt without hurting my self like now lol… from portugal…

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Karie Fay April 11, 2013 at 11:03 pm

Hi Davide,

You didn’t mention the brand of washer so I can’t be extremely specific. However, if you don’t have an access panel, you must turn the washer on its side and work from there. If a brace or bar crosses the bottom of the washer, remove that to provide better access.

To put your belt back on, you need to reroute it around the assembly, just like a car drive belt. However, instead of a belt tensioner, like a car has, the washer uses the motor. Loosen the motor’s mounting bolts to relieve tension. This should help you slip the belt on. You may have to turn the drum as you pull on the belt to kind of “walk” it into place. Once you have it on, tighten the motor mount bolts and anything else removed. Test the belt to see if it has a little play — no more than an inch of movement when pressed with a finger — before testing it with a load of laundry.

Don’t forget to turn the power off to the washer or unplug it before servicing!

Hope that helps,
Karie Fay

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gene February 28, 2013 at 8:22 am

im getting a lot of lint left on my dark clothes,and it seems like its not getting all the water out of the clothes! whats the problem?

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Karie Fay April 11, 2013 at 10:40 pm

Hi Gene,

Is your washer still acting up? Let’s see what we can do to help.

You didn’t mention the type of washer or any other details, only that you are getting a lot of lint on dark and black clothes and they seem too wet when the wash is done. I would be neglectful if I didn’t start with the basics, although I have a funny feeling it doesn’t apply to you.

First, sometimes what people think is lint is actually dried clothes detergent. If it dissolves or crumbles, that’s a sure sign. Also, if you don’t sort your clothes properly it will cause lint to show up on dark clothes. Too long of a wash cycle, too high of water in comparison to the clothes (causes friction which leads to lint), and other washing practices can lead to excess lint.

That said, there could be something wrong with the washer itself. If you have a buildup of lint inside your washer for whatever reason, for instance, your clothes may not drain well and will show lint. (Perhaps on lighter colored clothing you just don’t notice it as much.)

Washing machines are designed to trap the lint in a filter, then flush the lint away during the spin cycle. If too much lint accumulates, the filter clogs and may allow excess lint on your clothes, poor draining — or no draining at all. Your spin cycle can just stop.

Other possible causes include too long of a drain hose (over 10 feet), a kinked drain hose, or too high of a drain hose (above 5 feet). Low water pressure can also keep the washer from flushing well in the spin cycle.

The first thing I would suggest is running a wash cycle with hot water and a cup or two of white vinegar. This may help dissolve any softener and soap buildup that attracts lint and flush the lint away.

If that doesn’t seem to help, check your drain hose and consider your water pressure. Watching it through a wash load, although boring, may help you troubleshoot the cause. Does water flow well? Circulate properly? Does the pump seem to work smoothly and remove all visible water?

You can also remove your inner tub and look for excessive gunk buildup (soap, softener, lint) in the outer basket.

However, I tend to think the solution is to tear down your washer to expose the filter — usually located under the washer at the rear. Likely you need to remove the control panel and pop off the outer skin to get to the filter. Not a fun job, but you can probably do it yourself. I am preparing to do it too as my washer is clogged with lint and it won’t spin/drain. I plan to have plenty of towels laying around when I do since some water may spill out during the job.

Good luck with your washer!
Karie Fay

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ToniAnnn February 27, 2013 at 5:08 pm

Due to hurricane sandy our family has lost everything and a an old man was kind enough to give us a maytag neptune washer which is was hardly used. Today we hooked up the machine but when the machine is filling up the drainage water is going into the hot water hose and leaking out. When it gets to spin and drain cycle then the water is going into draining into the proper drain hose. Please help. I called maytag and after them checking their computer they said this was not a recorded problem and I was have to pay a service man at least $100 to just come out and that is not to fix or parts. Please our family lost everything and money is tight so I need to fix this problem right away and for very very cheap.
Thank you
Toni

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Karie Fay April 11, 2013 at 11:23 pm

Hi ToniAnn,

Sorry for the delay in my reply. My sympathies go to you and other victims who endured Hurricane Sandy.

I’m thinking the reason that Maytag couldn’t give you an answer is because the problem isn’t with the washer, but with your setup. I would take a very close look at every part of your washing system, one part at a time, to try and pinpoint the problem.

Look at the drain line itself. In particular, is the drain pipe at the proper height? Check the connection between the wall drain and the drain hose from the washer. Is it loose enough to allow air? If it’s too tight, it will cause a vacuum where the water can be sucked up and into the washer.

I would make sure the drain hose isn’t clogged or kinked as well. Closely watch your washer during a cycle and it can tell you a lot about what is going on, if you compare what it does to what it should do.

Finally, I wonder if this is a case of backflow from other appliances. Is the drain on your washer connected to the drain under your sink? (Drain the washer as you hold the plumbing under your closest skin. You’ll be able to tell.) If so, it could be backflow which means a problem with your plumbing, not your washer.

If you’re still seeking help, try talking to a local plumber and picking their brain as you are able. Catch them at a good time when they aren’t busy, if possible. A lot of times people are willing to help in extreme circumstances.

Best of luck to you,
Karie Fay

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Ian February 17, 2013 at 2:31 pm

Hi Karie,

Your responses thus far have been fantastic. So much so I was hoping I may be able to enlist a recommendation as well. I have a Maytag Centennial MVWC300XW. It’s Direct Drive.

On the spin cycle, regardless of load, the washing machine bounces into the walls and it sounds like it’s trying to destroy itself. I have mastered taking the control panel off, but I don’t remember how to remove the rest of the body. It does not have retaining clips like almost every other washer I’ve seen.

So questions:
1. How do I remove the body again? I did this once months ago when the problem initially occured but don’t remember for the life of me how.

2. Last time this happened, I checked and there are four long rods that hold the tub in position. The springs on each tub were in great condition, so I just reseated each rod. It seemed to do the trick. But now the spin cycle is violent once more. Any ideas?

Thanks!

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Karie Fay March 29, 2013 at 1:03 am

Hi Ian,

Thanks for the comment! Are you still having problems with your washer? I meant to reply to your query sooner, but the flu took me down for a while. I think I can help if you still need it.

What you describe sounds a lot like your washer’s inner tub is out of balance. You’re on the right track to tear it apart. I suggest checking the drum for excess play, which is usually from a broken spring, worn drum bearings, or possibly a broken drum shaft. Given that you have done thing before, it’s probably something adjustable. Another possibility is if the concrete weights are loose or broken, or the belts (suspension system) are loose. Give it a thorough going-over and I am sure you will spot the problem.

To tear apart your machine, take off the control panel (I suggest wrapping masking tape around the wires and labeling them) first. Then, kneel in front of the washer and locate two screws under the bottom edge of the washer front. These secure the lower access panel to the front of the washer. After removing them, pull the access panel away to reveal the water pump, drive belt and drive motor.

Next remove the screws that hold the bottom of the washer’s front panel to the sides. Pull the front panel toward you and down to unclip the piece from the top. The last set of screws secures the top panel to the sides. Remove them and lift up on the top like a car hood. You should have full access to the entire washing machine at this point.

Hope that helps you!
Karie Fay

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Todd February 13, 2013 at 3:34 pm

Hi. I’ve torn down my GE top load washing machine to try to figure out why our clothes smell so much. I’ve noticed that there is a bunch of gunk/mold in the pressure switch box that is mounted to the side of the large plastic wash tub. It looks like it should pop off of there, but I can’t seem to figure out how and don’t want to force it too hard and break something. Trying to get that box cleaned out as well as the hose attached to it. Does that box come off? What’s the best way to clean it out? Thanks!

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Karie Fay March 8, 2013 at 6:02 pm

Hi Todd!

Thanks for the question. Yup, mold buildup will definitely make your clothes smell. And with the gunk buildup — likely soap residue and such — it creates a perfect breeding ground for mold and mildew.

The part you refer to is technically named an air dome. On newer washers with a plastic tub, you can’t remove that piece. It’s molded in place. With some older models of washers, however, you can remove it. Just pull off that end of the water pressure hose first. Then, twist the air dome a quarter turn to pull it free. You may have to push in on it slightly before or while turning.

IF this applies to your washer, when you replace it, you’ll need a new air dome seal. Those are easy to obtain. Look for a washer seal kit for your make and model.

If you have the plastic tub, however, it’s a little more difficult. You basically have one of two choices…. Pull off the hose and swab out the inside of the air dome with a pipe cleaner, such as those used for tobacco pipes and crafts, or cotton swabs. Then, remove the inner washer basket and agitator (you’ll need a spanner wrench) to get at the port on the inside of the tub, where water enters the air dome from the washer. Clean the port similarly.

The other choice is to try to flush mold and gunk from the air dome. Fill the washer partly full of HOT water and add a couple of cups of vinegar. Alternatively, use bleach, although I would hesitate to do that as strong concentrations of bleach are hard on plastic. Make sure the water is full enough to enter the air dome, then let it set about an hour.

When you come back, try to blow air into the air dome to agitate the water. Use a bicycle pump (don’t laugh now – if you can get it to blow into the dome it will work) or an air compressor with low pressure – or, failing that, try to pour some hot water down the tube into the dome. You just want to get all the mold to loosen and flush.

Drain the water and reassemble the air dome. Make sure there’s no water in the washer when you hook the hose to the dome. Otherwise, it will read the current water level as “empty” from now on.

One last thought – if your washer has a filter near the pump, clean that too. And run several bleach or vinegar washes — without clothes — over the next month.

Hope that helps!
Karie Fay

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Jim Campos February 12, 2013 at 9:26 pm

My washing machine works but it will not spin very fast. The clothes, after the high speed spin, are still full of water and have to be rung out before putting into dryer. What is going on?

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Kathleen Harrington March 6, 2013 at 7:36 am

Hi I have the very same problem can you help us we have tried everything we know. HELP

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Kathleen Harrington March 6, 2013 at 7:37 am

washer does not empty on spin cycle

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Karie Fay March 7, 2013 at 11:40 am

Hi Jim and Kathleen,

What a great question! There are several possibilities that can cause your washer not to spin as fast as it should, and it’s impossible for me to be completely sure since I can’t inspect your washers myself. However, there are a few things you can check yourself.

Since you say the washer spins – it just doesn’t spin on high, correct? – we can eliminate things that prevent it from spinning at all, such as the lid switch failing. I am sure you also balance out your load (uneven loads can prevent high spinning).

The first thing to check immediately is your drain hose. Make sure you don’t have any clogs or kinks in it. Beyond that, look at how high your hose climbs before entering the wall drain. While you do have to have the hose higher than the water level in the washer tub, if it’s too high, the pump may not be able to remove all the water, and the washer will not enter the highest spin of its cycle.

Likewise, a faulty water level switch will stop the washer from entering high spin for the same reason. Look for a clear tube, like an aquarium air line, running from the tub to the switch itself in the rear of the unit. Use a VOM to check the switch for power. Also check the hose for debris. Blow through it and tap one end of the tube against the washer frame.

Another thing I would try, if you haven’t already, is to unplug your washer for a little while before plugging it back in. Like all electronics, this can sometimes reset the system. A bad timer or a frozen motor control board will not advance the timer, keeping it from entering the final high spin. If unplugging it and plugging it back in makes it work, you may need to replace the timer or motor control board.

Near the same line running from the washer to the water level switch is a pump. Try checking it with a VOM and clean dirt from around it as well. It may need replacement.

The drive motor may cause the machine to agitate but not spin if it’s what is known as a ‘reversing motor.’ If it’s going out but not completely gone, it may spin only weakly. Sometimes, it’s a matter of the brushes on the motor wearing out.

More commonly, a loose and slipping or worn drive belt can prevent the washer from spinning fully. Test for slack, as I explain in this article, and tighten or replace as needed. However, some machines use direct drive instead of belt drive. In that case, the coupler may be bad instead. Then again, the clutch can fail, if your washer has one, resulting in the washer failing to attain full spin speed.

The bad thing about clutches and couplers is they generally require a lot of labor, as you must remove the transmission and other parts. In addition, it may be difficult for a DIYer to perform, and sometimes the parts cost enough that simply buying a new machine may be your best bet.

How old is your machine? I would factor that into any decision. If troubleshooting fails to confirm any of these diagnoses, you can have a pro troubleshoot the repair and take it from there.

Hope this helps!
Karie Fay

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wendy February 11, 2013 at 1:11 pm

Hi Chris we seem to be having a problem with are washer, there seems to be a leak in are washer, we brought it New, but didn’t hook it up until now, 2013, it sat in its box from the store, everytime we do a wash, when done theres water under the washer all hoses are tight checked, then can you tell me if there is a round gastet where the hose is at the back of washer we did some trouble shouting but can’t seem to find where the leak is coming from?? we can open the bottem of it it a top loader any ideas will wait for you re-ply..P.S. I did phone GE. but they didn’t help..

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Karie Fay March 6, 2013 at 4:15 am

Hi Wendy,

Leaks can come from several spots on a washer, making it frustrating for sure! I’ll do my best to help.

The supply hoses, which bring hot and cold water to the machine, should have little black gaskets on both ends. Unscrew them, one at a time, from the washer. Insert your finger — do you find a black ring? Repeat where the hose connects to the water at your wall, most likely. If you don’t find a gasket, you need one to create a tight seal. If the gasket is torn or in bad shape, that could also cause a problem.

When you reconnect your supply lines, make sure not to cross thread them.

Take a look at your drain pipe, leaving the washer to the drain pipe in the wall. Make sure it’s connected properly, as I touch on in the article (Take a look at the Troubleshooting article linked to in the article as well).

If that doesn’t solve the problem, try running a load while you watch it. Read a book or something while the washer runs. Where does the water seem to emerge from? In which part of the cycle? If you think it might be a hose, wrap a dry cloth around it and see if it gets wet. I think it’s possible to track down… It’s just going to take some detective work!

Hope that helps!
Karie Fay

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Bryson February 6, 2013 at 7:52 am

Hi, i think i loaded too much clothes in the machine… I heard a loud clack noise and the whole drum just sank… I dont know what to do… Shld i call for a repairman?

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Karie Fay February 9, 2013 at 9:47 pm

Hi Bryson!

I hate to say it, but I do think you need a repairman. I think you have a problem with your bearings.

Whenever you hear a loud or unusual noise in your washer, a bearing is one of the leading suspects. However, the drum sinking is fairly definitive.

What happens is the bearings get old or the drum bearing seal fails and allows water to enter. Once exposed to moisture, it doesn’t take long for it to fail.

While lifting the tub up and seeing if it raises as slight as 1/8 inch is a common test for bearing failure, another is to remove the washing machine belt and turn the drum by hand. A rumbling sound reinforces the diagnosis of bad bearings. Typically, there’s also brownish-colored rust that appears under the washer and down the rear of the drum, under the drum belt/pulley.

Replacing drum bearings is a difficult job. On some washers, the bearings are part of the outer tub and the tub will therefore need replacement. Others require you to split the tub apart. It’s fairly complicated and time-consuming.

Further, depending on the age of your machine, it may be better to purchase a new one. On top of the parts, a service technician will likely need a couple of hours, so this repair can get costly.

Sorry for the bad news, but I hope the information helps,
Karie Fay

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Nathan February 11, 2013 at 5:55 am

Some great advice from Karie (and great post in generally btw Karie), but if I was you I would look into the cost of buying some replacement bearings and if its not to costly for your model give the repair job a try yourself because as Karie noted it is often cheaper to buy a new machine with big problems like this.

The other option is to check your warranty as you may be covered for a free repair or even replacement by the warranty still?

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Kelli February 5, 2013 at 3:11 pm

Hi,
My washer is making an internal loud clicking noise only during the spin cycle. Everything else is fine.
Kelli

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Karie Fay February 9, 2013 at 10:33 pm

Hi Kelli!

Great question, I will give it a shot!

Washer noises can be difficult to pinpoint — you could almost write a whole article on washer sounds alone! However, I think in your case I would first suspect that you have coins, small nails, bolts, or something similar trapped between the inner and outer tub. If you lift the top of your washer and shine a flashlight down into the space, you may be able to see something. I would start there. Pulling the agitator out, as I mentioned in this article, takes a lot of work and is necessary to get the inner tub loose. Then you have to unbolt the inner tub from the transmission before you can lift it out as well.

Have you tried lifting up on the tub? Just reach in and grab the top and pull. If it moves ever so slightly, your bearings are probably going bad. If they are, the repair is difficult and rather expensive. On the other hand, bad bearings can also pose a fire hazard.

Did you notice if the machine shakes or makes unusual movements? It is also possible that the tub is unbalanced due to a loose weight, the drive belt is badly worn, or the clutch is bad — particularly since you say the sound happens during the spin cycle. If you don’t find evidence of bad bearings (lifting the tub) and don’t see any objects between the tubs, try looking for loose objects in the washer housing, outside of the tubs. After that I would probably call a service technician and ask him if it is your clutch.

Hope that helps!
Karie Fay

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ruth January 31, 2013 at 5:32 pm

my washer will only wash small loads and then sometimes as it is filling up it will start draining the water out before it gets full. it does not do it everytime on small loads but it does it always on the larger loads.is there something i can do at home to fix it without calling a repairman?

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Karie Fay February 3, 2013 at 1:11 am

Hi Ruth!

Am I correct that the water continues to try to fill the tub even as it is draining? It doesn’t stop filling?

And is it simply draining or do you hear the pump engaging to actually suck out the water?

I have a feeling you’re in luck. The most likely cause of water draining as the washer tries to fill is a problem with the connection between your washer’s drain hose and the wall drain pipe. The fact that it always does this when the load is larger than small reinforces my suspicion that this is happening to you.

If the end of the drain hose isn’t as high as or higher than the water level in your washer, the washer will drain like a siphon. Look at your drain hose and pull it up out of the wall connection to see where it ends. It should be just far enough inside the drain pipe so it won’t fall loose but not so far that it creates the siphon.

Another thing is it must be a loose connection. A well-meaning homeowner might seal this connection, but if the fit is too tight, it can also cause your washer to drain. Just inspect your hose closely, pull it out and see how high the end is, wiggle it around to see if it’s loose enough to allow air into the pipe.

Hope this helps!
Karie Fay

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Elaine January 26, 2013 at 6:19 am

Hey-Thanks! I never even thought that it could just be a clogged pump! I might not need a part or a service call!

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Karie Fay January 14, 2013 at 11:07 pm

Hi Chris,

Hopefully you don’t need to replace your agitator.

Every washer uses a method to keep the agitator in place. Likely, it’s this component that needs either servicing or replacement. You didn’t mention your make/model, so I can’t be sure how yours secures.

In general, some washers use a hold down bolt or screw. Lift the fabric softener cup to reveal either a bolt or a ring clip. Check to see if it is loose, and tighten as necessary.

Another attachment method uses two pieces — the agitator hold down and the agitator coupler (sometimes called a drive block). The hold down is a bowl-shaped part that connects to the transmission drive shaft. The coupler, which looks like a ridged toilet paper roll with a fitting on the end, inserts into the hold down and attaches to the base of the agitator. While you can purchase do-it-yourself replacement parts, you usually need special tools for the drive block and replacement is difficult. Consider taking the agitator to a local repair shop and having them replace both the drive block for you.

Some newer washers use a bell housing, bolted to the transmission drive shaft, to secure the agitator. The agitator contains small ridges that grip the bell housing. When either the fingers or bell housing wears out, the agitator pops up. The only way to solve this situation is to replace both the agitator and the bell housing, unfortunately.

Hope that helps!
Karie

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Dana Caffrey January 9, 2013 at 6:47 pm

Great tips! Now I have an idea about how to repair my washer. Thanks for sharing this useful information.

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chris December 31, 2012 at 10:53 am

The agitators keeps popping up when it starts to wash cloths do I need to replace the agitator.

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