Garage Door Opener Troubleshooting Tips

by on September 9, 2012Karie Fay

Today, most garages feature electronic openers that allow you to enter at the touch of a button, but that wasn’t always the case. From the early part of the 20th century, when the first overhead garage door and first electronic door opener were created, until openers invaded the average home in the middle of the 20th century, someone had to get out, no matter what the weather, and open the garage door to let the car enter.

Not only do today’s garage door openers free drivers from dealing with heavy and awkward garage doors, they are also specifically tuned to your house, so no one else can accidentally or intentionally enter without your permission. The units are small and include safety features to prevent harming children caught under the door. Modern garage door openers are great – until they quit working. When they do, don’t resign yourself to costly repair bills or stumbling out in frigid temperatures or the dark of night to open the garage door. The fix might be something simple that you can troubleshoot yourself. Problems commonly occur with the safety system, the user adjustment controls or the power supply.

How a Garage Door Opener Works

garage door opener troubleshootingLike everything, your garage door opener wasn’t meant to last forever. The typical garage door in the U.S. opens and closes about 1,500 times a year, according to Popular Mechanics magazine, and most openers are rated to operate 10,000 times before experiencing mechanical failure. The weakest link, mechanically, is generally the torsion spring.

The torsion spring is the long, coiled piece that runs horizontally just above the door. This spring – not the motor or armature attaching the door to the mechanical unit – does the heavy lifting. A note of caution: This spring is under an enormous amount of tension and the average DIYer should not attempt to remove it. Garage doors aren’t light – steel doors can weigh 300 pounds easily.

When you push a button on the remote unit corresponding to your opener, a radio code transmits, telling the opener’s motor to activate. This motor, generally a very small horsepower unit, starts the drive system. The spring tension either pulls the door up the tracks or controls its descent. Of course there are complicated internal parts as with any motor, but most internal part replacement or repairs are advanced jobs best suited for a professional.

Garage door drive systems vary slightly. While the torsion spring helps lift the door, the drive system provides the extra power and guidance. There are three types: chain, belt and screw drives. The chain drive system is the oldest. Metal chains control the garage door movement, which is guided by overhead track present in all systems. Considered the noisiest, it has largely been replaced with belt drives, which use rubber belts to lift and lower the door, and screw drives, which employ a long steel rod that pulls or pushes the door into position as it turns.

Fortunately, many of the problems the average homeowner encounters will concern squeaking noises, irregular door opening and remote issues – none of which require entering the mechanical unit itself. If, after troubleshooting the symptoms, you are unable to fix the door opener, call a qualified professional or consider replacing the unit.

Where to Start Troubleshooting

It’s pretty obvious when the opener isn’t working: you push the button and nothing happens. Don’t panic; pay attention to little clues instead. If, for instance, a control pad fails to light up or the motor makes an unusual sound, your best bet is to check that specific component. When there isn’t a visible clue to track, consider the symptoms to suggest a cause and possibly a cure.

  • Does the car remote work? Check to see if either the car remote or wall unit will activate the garage door opener first. As simple as it seems, in many cases that first panicked, “Oh my goodness it isn’t working!” is followed by the realization that the remote batteries are simply weak or dead. Incidentally, many remotes feature a blinking LED light that may actually flash to display a code which diagnoses operational problems. Consult your owner’s manual for more information.
  • Check the batteries. If the remote works fine but the wall unit fails to engage the opener, first consider the power source. Some opener wall control units are battery operated while others tie into your home’s electrical wiring or simply plug into the wall. Test the batteries, if applicable, to see if that fixes the problem. Otherwise, quickly examine the plug or wiring to see if you can locate visible damage such as scorched, exposed or broken wires.
  • Rule out electrical issues. Finally, move to the house breaker or fuse box and check the circuit controlling the door opener. Reset a tripped breaker – which will be out of line with the other breakers, looking half on and half off – or replace the fuse. Even if the breaker looks fine, try turning it off, waiting about 60 seconds, then turning it on again to reset the connection. Consult an electrician for damaged wiring in the breaker, fuse box, or in the home’s wiring.
  • Are the sensors blocked? In newer openers, safety sensors may also be the culprit. Safety sensors work in pairs, mounted on either side of the garage door at about 10 to 12 inches in height. Each beams a light – one red, one green – across the opening. When the beam is obstructed or when the sensors cannot catch the other sensor’s light, the garage door opener will fail to engage or, sometimes, stop during operation. The fix is simple: Check for anything obstructing the sensors. Remove obstacles, position the sensors directly across from each other, or clean the sensor’s surface to remove moisture, dirt or other impediments. Afterwards, attempt to open the garage door again. If you’re successful, you know that the problem is resolved.

The Garage Door Fails to Completely Open or Close

When the door refuses to lift or lower completely, the culprit might again be the safety sensors. If the sensors are operating properly – looking again to see if the lights shine red and green and are facing each other and aligned – a likely cause is one of the limit switches.

The exact placement and appearance of the limit switch depends on the specific garage door opener. Typically, you can find limit switches on the back of the garage door opener unit, the box attached to the door track overhead. Use a stepladder to reach the switches, small plastic screws marked up and down, and turn to adjust. On some brands, the switches are instead mounted on the rail extending between the door and opener unit. Loosen the switch and move either closer to or farther from the unit, then tighten with a screwdriver. Test the garage door opener after adjustment of either to see if this solves the problem.

The Garage Door Reverses Before or After Closing

If the garage door hits the floor and reverses to open again, check the close limit switch and adjust accordingly. When it reverses before even hitting the floor, a possible cause is another adjustment feature on the opener unit called the “close force adjustment.”

As your garage door gets older, the springs wear out. The result is irregular opening and closing. The solution is to increase the force setting on your opener.

Climb a stepladder to reach the garage door opener and look for the knobs on the rear of the unit. Turn the desired control clockwise slightly to adjust and retest the door. Continue turning, one at a time and in small increments, until the door opens and closes properly and stays in position.

The Garage Door Motor Fails to Stop Running

It probably comes as no surprise: If the door opens or closes but the motor continues to run, the limit switch is probably to blame. Adjust the switch, either on the rear of the opener unit or on the track, and try the opener again to confirm the solution.

The Garage Door Opener Hums but Doesn’t Operate

Humming may be a good sign – you know it has power. The unit may simply be bound up. Check the moving parts to ensure the rails aren’t blocked and the armature is connected to the garage door. Ensure the unit is engaged, not in manual mode.

Another possibility is, again, the force adjustment. Old, weak springs may shift much of the burden for lifting and lowering the door to the opener motor and drive system. While the unit may be able to handle the weight, then again, it may not. The result will be a straining motor that fails to open or close the door. Tweak the force adjustment to solve this problem.

A handy way to determine if the fault lies in the opener or the door is to eliminate the opener. Pull the emergency release handle hanging from the overhead unit to disengage it and allow the door to open and close manually. Lift and lower the door, testing the spring and rail systems. Your door should stay at any point of travel, when released, on its own. If it doesn’t and previous steps fail to fix the problem, the springs are too worn and need replacement.

If, however, the door stays where it’s left and moves up and down smoothly, the problem is likely an internal component in the garage door opener unit itself. Keep the setting on manual, so you can continue to use your garage, and consult a qualified professional.

The Garage Door Opener is Noisy or the Door Vibrates

Some openers are louder than others. Chains rattle, springs creak and doors chatter as they move. As long as the door operates properly, barring alarming noises such as shrieks that suddenly arise or smoke billowing from the unit, there’s probably nothing to cause concern.

New noises or movements can result from loose nuts and bolts or failure in the track system. Examine every part of the door, rails, drive and springs. Tighten or adjust components as needed. Lubricate the travel mechanism with a little oil or as recommended by the manufacturer.

You can actually pop the cover off the opener unit and observe how it works when activated. Just don’t touch anything to prevent electrical shock or injury.

The Garage Door Light Fails to Operate

If your garage door opener is leaving you in the dark, check the lightbulb first; it’s the most common cause of light failure. More complex issues involve a dead socket or problems inside the motor’s circuit board.

Unplug your garage door opener or remove the batteries for 30 seconds or more. Plug it in again. In many cases this will reset the circuit board as well as fix other mechanical problems. If the light still fails to work, have a professional assess and solve the problem for you.

Annual Garage Door Opener Maintenance

Perform an annual inspection and maintenance procedure on your garage door and opener to keep it working for years. Clean all tracks and lubricate moving parts. Change batteries and check all bolts and fasteners. Inspect belts, chains and pulleys, replacing worn parts as necessary. Test the lift and close force and adjust accordingly. Look at the garage door seal and repair the weather stripping if needed.

{ 251 comments… read them below or add one }

Gne August 24, 2014 at 1:56 pm

Help! I have a Genie door opener. My garage is seperate from my house and there is no back door, just the newly installed double garage door and Genie opener. Due to a very bad storm, my electricity went off for almost a whole day. I couldn’t get into my garage to get my car out. I’m recently widowed and I always relied on my husband for these kind of problems. I live in a rural area, and have no neighbors. All my family live in another state. How do you get the door open without electricity? Can someone please help.

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ken August 21, 2014 at 8:49 am

About 7 year old Sears Craftsman GDO. Door opening and closing stops working with no specific pattern. I hear a faint “click” on the unit and then the green power light on the wall opener goes out. Sometimes if I wait a few minutes, it comes back on. I try to then close OR open the door and it works sometimes but also stops again within a few seconds. Now the interesting part. When the unit ‘clicks”, I can tap the unit with a stick and I hear that same click and the green light comes back on and the unit works. Still goes out a lot though. I checked all the other things, sensors, downforce, ease of manual operations, etc. and found no problems.

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GaryC August 8, 2014 at 6:46 am

I can SOMETIMES use the remote or wireless keypad. Then neither will work for many hours. Ideas?

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KD August 7, 2014 at 9:33 am

Genie chain drive door opener: Works fine when weather is cool. When temp goes above 50F, will only open about 6 inches or, if open, will only close about 6 inches. Have gone thru all the suggested trouble-shooting tips, but no success. When door is disconnected from chain drive, the chain makes the same movements as the door does when connected. No springs are involved in the door operation. Door OK when operated manually.

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rob August 20, 2014 at 5:08 pm

Try adjusting the open force on the genie by two or three numbers…I.e. If it’s set on 4 put it on 6 or seven and see if that works…door may be out of balance or opener is failing

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Phil July 28, 2014 at 9:59 pm

Nice article, I have a Popular Mech. door opener that I noticed would cause the travel tube to flex upward when the door closed. I tried adjusting the close travel distance so it would stop just as it touched the floor. It worked the first couple of runs, but then goes back to pushing against the floor enough to flex the tube again. Tried it several times with the same scenario.Now it hesitates a little bit above the floor, then continues on, again too far. Have I adjusted it too far, causing it to do that? I’ve also lessened the close force a couple clicks, but it does the same, works a couple times then starts traveling too far again. Thanks for any ideas.

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Jack July 22, 2014 at 5:43 am

Great article, well written and professional.
I would like to add that almost everything which was written here can also apply for extension spring system, and that not once, it seem like the problem is coming from the opener, when the problem is actually a broken spring or other damaged part which make it seem like the problem is due to an opener problem.
Thanks.

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Paulette July 25, 2014 at 7:02 pm

An electrical storm shut off the electricity in our neighborhood this evening. I have been able to get everything reset except the garage door. The light comes on but the door does nothing. I’ve done the things listed. I was hoping for a nice red reset button, but no such luck. Please help me.

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Donna L July 18, 2014 at 9:20 am

Suddenly the door goes up about 3/4 and emits an ear piercing metal shreek. The smallest amount of pressure on it will clear it and it goes the rest of the way. Husband tried lubing it but it’s not helping. Door is about 2 y/o.

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Donna L July 24, 2014 at 6:21 am

never mind, ordered a new trolly. That should do it.

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Richard Chorey July 15, 2014 at 9:23 pm

garage door works well except my motor runs very slow at times. Unit about 3 years old. Help????

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Donna wilkinson July 14, 2014 at 8:26 pm

We replaced our garage opener 3 yrs ago, 18 months ago spring broke so had both replaced and he replaced a capacitor. Since then when weather gets hot here in Memphis usually 90 or above door goes nuts when you open and close it either goes up part way then goes back down part way or reverse. We have replaced batteries in car remote, made sure sensors are clean on both sides, but it has something to do with extreme weather as it does it in the once in awhile very cold weather we get here, but always the hot weather. What could it be???

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MD July 8, 2014 at 8:46 pm

Need some help with the following issue:

Control Panel on wall for:
LiftMaster 3255M

1. Had a new garage built, and a Door Control Panel was installed on the wall.
2. There was no electricity at the time.
3. On 3 July 14 electricity was brought to the garage.
4. The motor unit (and its light) as well as the hand-held remote units worked, and the garage door opened.

–>> However, the Door Control Panel does nothing: white button does not work, light button does not turn on the light on the motor unit.<<–

Your assistance is greatly appreciated.

Thank you!

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Malgus July 3, 2014 at 8:24 am

Great article! I have 2 doors. One stopped working some time ago and I was not able to have it fixed. The other stopped working yesterday. Still not on a position to pay for repair or a new one. After an increase to the force adjustment, working fine!!! Tried the same on the other, but it appears it’s troubles are more deep seated. You just save me untold heartache and a respectable amount of dollars!!
Many Thanks!
M.

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alice spatz June 24, 2014 at 8:32 am

I have a MVP garage door opener- About 3 weeks ago my door started to go up and down on its own when I am not home. I have to keep it on manual to stop this. A major inconvenience. Please help as my finances are very limited. Can I fix this myself? Thank you

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alice spatz June 24, 2014 at 8:45 am

Correction- The door doesn’t go down , just up on its own.

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alice spatz June 24, 2014 at 9:35 am

problem fixed – needed to rest code – Romac Garage Openers in Leesburg, FL helped me do it over the phone

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Jeff June 23, 2014 at 10:30 am

This site seems to be rather useless. The countless complaints go on and on and on with little hope or resolution to each individual’s concern. It is evident serious widespread issues are adversely affecting several homeowners’ security, not to mention his or her peace of mind. Being that these issues involve several garage door opener brands across the board, it is apparent the circuitry or engineering of garage door openers, in general, are defective. Sounds like state-by-state Consumer Relations need to get involved!

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Tamra June 17, 2014 at 7:11 am

My garage door started opening and closing on its own last night – and then the button to push on the garage wall would not work. Then when I put the door down – a few seconds later it would open on its own – then I noticed the unit was smoking.
Is this fixable?

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JIM June 13, 2014 at 12:30 pm

I have a craftsman 1/2 horse gdr 15 yrs old. The worm went out and I changed it along with the main gear sprocket assembly. Now it will only travel up or down a few inches to a few feet. What could be the issue?? Also, since this happened six mounths ago my son has experienced this as well as I have to on a second 40 yr. old unit.

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Lisa Marquise June 12, 2014 at 8:55 am

Our new garage door creaks in even a light breeze. It also doesn’t close all the way at the bottom on one end because of a half inch difference in frame. The installation has been a nightmare. First they hung it crooked at the top so, I’m assuming, it would seal at the bottom. And the steel bands on inside door panels were bent down on one end at the top. It took three visits for them to fix that….and now it’s straight, but with the gap at bottom one end and the creaking in wind. It’s been a nightmare. The repair guy tried telling us it had to be hung crooked because of our frame being off (actually the driveway settling a bit, the frame is square). We had to get the manager. What should they be doing tofix the bbottom gap? And the creaking? (It’s like the panels move). I think it’s noisy too. Help! Thank you.
l

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chuck July 26, 2014 at 7:09 am

Doors in general need to be hung in a level and plumb(vertically level) opening. If the bottom is not level it will cause the door to be lowered and settle in an unlevel rest causing the door to bind in the track causing the opener to work harder and parts to wear prematurely. The installer should know this . The bent door pieces should have been replaced before installation . A damaged door will never work correctly . Even worse when the installer does not have enough experience.

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Geno Sanders May 24, 2014 at 10:45 am

My house is 5 years old so my garage door would be the same ,I was maintaining it well until I became ill and just let it go. My problem is now that while it still works its in a bind in the middle and continuing use with that not being fixed has warped he door pretty bad in the middle. I think it may be because in time I have misplaced the arm that goes from the motor to the door is not set in the proper place or hole what never and this what is making it bind. When I say bind it really binds big time when it catch’s, and the problem has gotten real bad. It bows so much now you want to go hide because you think it will blow up. Before I told everyone to not use the auto .opener until its repaired ,the sections of the door have warped some what and I have straightened them fairly good but now I need to know how to set the opener arm in the right place.

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David June 4, 2014 at 4:56 pm

My garage door opener will turn the light on, but the door doesn’t move. With the wall unit it works fine. Multiple remotes after battery changes still have this problem. All remotes do this. How do I fix this problem? Thank you!

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Dan Gideon May 13, 2014 at 6:31 pm

My garage door opens fine using remote or wall switch. It closes sometimes but not others. In order to force it down, I have to hold the wall switch down. It seems to work fine when the outside temperature is cooler. I replaced the sensors thinking that perhaps the beam was dim and thus not able to penetrate when it was bright (warmer) outside, but I think it’s temperature. What would the next step be in diagnosing the problem?

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GarageDoorTech May 16, 2014 at 6:01 pm

If you have to hold down the wall switch in order for the door to close, the issue is with your safety sensors. I would double check first that the sensors are properly aligned; you should have a solid LED indicator light on each sensor, indicating that the sensors are properly aligned. If the sensors are properly aligned, I would then check the sensor mounting hardware to make sure it is not loose. Loose hardware can cause the sensors to be momentarily knocked out of alignment due to vibration from the moving door. If you have a Chamberlain/LiftMaster/Sears opener with sensors that are clipped onto the door tracks, I would check to make sure the door tracks are not loose. Perhaps you can even try mounting the sensors directly to the wall using blocks of wood to isolate the vibration. If you still have a problem, there may be a short in the sensor wiring or the sunlight might be hitting one of the sensors.

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Mary May 7, 2014 at 9:34 am

I have an ancient Stanley ST400 that has stopped working. It’s plugged into an overhead light socket that definitely has power to it. When I press the button inside the garage to open the door, the pedestrian light on the unit comes on for 1-2 seconds and then goes off, but nothing else happens. Any ideas where to look for the problem?

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James Burger May 2, 2014 at 12:36 pm

I can usually fix garage door opener problems myself. This problem has me stumped. My grandson got a hold of the remote and was putting the door up and down. All of a sudden the door would only go a foot or so either way. Now the door is dead. Won’t move or try too. The sensors are aligned the motor light comes on but the door is dead. Any help would be appreciated.

Jim

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GarageDoorTech May 16, 2014 at 6:06 pm

Does the door only open one foot every time you try to open it or is it stuck one foot off the ground? Check if the opener runs without the garage door attached…pull the red release rope and check if the door opener runs without the door. If the door opener runs fine without the door then the problem lies with the door itself, not the opener. From what you’re describing, the issue sounds like a broken door spring or a door that is in need of maintenance. There are other possible problems but that’s usually what I check when I show up at a customer’s home that’s experiencing these issues. Does the opener hum when you try to activate it?

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Marty Butler April 3, 2014 at 8:09 am

Hi,
I have a Genie, it will work for a few days and then stop. I pulled the plug out and waiting and put it back in. It worked for 3 days and did the same thing??
Any ideas what it is,
thanks Marty

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VIEU March 31, 2014 at 2:05 pm

Our garage door is falling down by itself after it is opened. It does not do this all the time.

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chuck July 26, 2014 at 7:14 am

spring adjustment would be my first guess. The door should be balanced with the springs so that when you open it by hand(door opener unattached) it works easily . BUT it should somewhat stay in one place along the way up or down the track without falling down too quickly . If you have a torsion type spring the adjustment is usually one rotation of the proper weight rated spring per one foot of door plus one turn, give or take a partial turn for fine tuning.

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m diy March 21, 2014 at 7:11 pm

FYI, chamberlin liftmaster garage door opener remote only works when opener light goes off after 4.5 minute delay or light is turned off at wall switch.
No one could answer my question either online or at the local G. Door companies.
It was the logic board. I ordered a new one online for around $60.00, on ebay DIY company. 3 screws, 3 wires, and 1 plug, removed and put back in same order with new board, and all works perfectly. I set the 2 adjustment tabs at #6 just like my old one for up down threshholds. You do have to reprogram remotes to it. follow the instructions on front of logic board. Simple enough in 30 minutes.

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Blaise March 15, 2014 at 3:56 am

My moms brand new opener opened her door by itself in the middle of the night. Any chance of a thief with an assortment of remotes driving around her neighborhood trying to get lucky? Lemme know.

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cr April 29, 2014 at 8:22 am

Did you figure out the problem? Our opened twice last night but no one was around to open it. I’m thinking some sort of interference opened the door, not a thief, but I am baffled by this.

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Tathesia March 13, 2014 at 3:37 am

The remote control is not working..and you have to hold and push the wall control in order for the door to go all the way down…and the light blinks 10 times. Pleeeease help.

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Bonnie May 14, 2014 at 6:51 am

this is what happens to me. Did you figure anything out?

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Chantile May 21, 2014 at 5:35 pm

Same thing is happening to me….what was the conclusion?

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One Red Light March 12, 2014 at 10:38 am

My left sensor shines both the green and red lights. My right sensor only shines the green light. Is this why my door was closed when I left and up when I returned? I wiped the area in front of where the red light is supposed to shine and nothing happened. Please advise – One Red Light

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Lyn March 7, 2014 at 3:04 pm

Genie Pro Screw drive-1/2 HP-Mod CM8600IC/A-When either wall button or remote is pushed, motor is activated momentarily and then major ‘screech’ and door stops-With manual release pulled, door moves up and down manually without any binding.
HELP..it’s still cold in OH

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Robert March 21, 2014 at 7:57 am

I have a similar problem with my very old genie opener and it’s just as cold in ME! When I close the door manually then lift it, the door will not stay put and drops down. A Genie rep told me the screech was probably a worn out carriage and the reason the door won’t hold its position was because the door needs rebalancing and the springs needed adjusting. Do you think this diagnosis is correct?

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chuck July 26, 2014 at 7:15 am

sounds correct to me .

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Michael March 2, 2014 at 7:40 pm

My Genie 2020 stop working.
Verified sensor light are on and are not block.
Check outlet no issue, has power going to it.
Replaced door wall button – still dead.
No noise at all coming from opener.
Wondering if it capacitor or board has gone??

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Mike February 16, 2014 at 8:52 am

Have a 1/2 hp formula 1 pro belt drive opener. I have now sheared through 2 trolley assemblies where the lip on one side of the trolley is apparently rubbing until it hits failure and breaks. Would you think this is a lube issue, need more hp issue, or maybe belt tension issue? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

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Jackie February 15, 2014 at 5:42 pm

I have a garage door that will open fine with the opener or the control panel but to close it you have to hold the control panel button down until it closes all the way. It never used to be like that. Anyone that can tell me what the problem would be? It does not close with the wireless garage door opener.

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Mike February 14, 2014 at 9:28 pm

So i just installed a new garage door opener (craftsman 1/2 hp) and when i push the remote to open the garage door, i can hear the garage door opener make some noise but the garage door moves slightly but won’t open and i can see the chain looks like it dips a bit and the bar sorta bends. Don’t know what’s wrong would appreciate it someone could give me some suggestions Thanks

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Andy January 24, 2014 at 12:39 pm

So last night I realized the garage door was still open, I live in North East Ohio and it was about 0 degrees at the point I went to close the garage door. I hit the button, it went down as usual, then all of the sudden when it got all the way down, a giant smashing sound occured, it sounded like glass being smashed. When I went to open the garage door this morning, it would go up about 6 inches then back down. Finally I just unhooked the driver and went to lift it, it was much heavier than normal, it’s just aluminum I believe, and last time I lifted it, it was light. Does this sound like the coil spring broke? I didn’t see anything actually broken when I looked, I didn’t have a lot of time as I was on my way to work. Any suggestions would be appreciated! thanks!

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John January 28, 2014 at 2:01 pm

Andy, we had pretty much the same problem.

I am guessing that your spring broke. Our door had a horizontal spring that went across the top of the door. That system is crap, and is hardly ever used.

A local garage door repair company dispatched a guy who junked the old system and put in two springs, one on each side of the door. The new springs, which are a far more common type, run lengthwise with the garage.

Not only does the door work fine, but it’s nice and quiet. The old spring, before it broke, made the door hellishly loud when it opened or closed.

Good luck!

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Tom Johnson III April 11, 2014 at 5:50 am

Yes, for sure your spring is broken. Sounds like a gun shot.

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chuck July 26, 2014 at 7:18 am

typical of a broken spring. the spring is loaded as the door goes down

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Ron January 11, 2014 at 11:43 pm

The remote was missing when I bought the house. A new remote is not available because the opener operates on a frequency no longer used. I found a replacement that is installed in place of the original wall mounted button that is activated by the remote provided. Worked fine for a while but now the remote only operates the light but not the door. The wall button still operates the door and light. The remote battery charge reads 12 volts. Any suggestions as to what is causing this problem?

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Frustrated January 6, 2014 at 9:44 am

Good day. I have two Lift Master 3255 GDOs for our garage doors. For the past month or so, my remote has worked very sporadically. My first thought was that the battery was bad, so I tried the other two remotes with the same result. I took the remotes into a Batteries Plus store to have them tested and they all tested fine. Here are the issues. My wife’s car has a button that we programmed (for the two-car garage door) inside the vehicle, so that “remote” works fine. When I try to enter, I have to push the button multiple times before it will activate (I pushed it over 30 times yesterday, before it activated). What I have found is that I can push the button for the larger garage door (again, multiple times) and when that activates, then the other door opens immediately with one push of the button.

As I mentioned before, I have three remotes. I have tried to reprogram them all using the “learn” button and only the one would even learn the code. Still, this one remote only works after repeated pushes of the buttons. On a day like today, when the wind chill is -50F, I do not want to have to get out of my car to enter the code on the keypad to get in my garage.

Any thoughts?

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Ron January 14, 2014 at 12:06 am

To clarify: 3 remotes: yours, your wife’s, the keypad. You say your wife’s works, the keypad works, your’s does not work. If that’s the case, sounds like your remote has a problem. Assuming the batteries are 12volt, if you leave it in the car at work, in extreme cold temps, that little battery can get low and not work. Get a cheap multimeter at Harbor Freight and check your battery after its been sitting in the cold for a few hours, it might be to low a charge to work the remote. I had a battery that was at 12 volts and sometimes it worked and sometimes not. Maybe this helps.

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Ted January 4, 2014 at 10:50 am

I have a chamberlain whisper drive model 459950 . The lights stay on and do not flash when setting all the remote’ s . The security lock an not be set because the light do not flash.

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marvin faircloth January 3, 2014 at 8:07 am

the motor of the belt driven garage door is beeping. How do I stop beeping?

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mike December 30, 2013 at 1:11 pm

operated the genie screw drive opener multiple times to program a car homelink. noticed some smoke from the unit and it stopped opening. still seems to operate fine now that it cooled down. anything to be concerned about?

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Karie Fay January 5, 2014 at 1:24 am

Hi Mike,

Know you hated seeing that! My guess is, you overheated the motor. You might have melted a wire or something, and you could try climbing up there and looking. But you say it’s opening fine. This is just my personal opinion — I would keep my eye on it and continue using it. I might look too, just because I am sorta OCD like that.

Good Luck!
Karie Fay

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jamal December 25, 2013 at 7:08 pm

The garage door is not working , it goes about half the way then stops and start humming ? I checked and have noticed very.very sticky/gluey/oily stuff all around the cable ? it is The Chamberlain ® Whisper Drive ® 1/2 HP Belt Drive garage door opener and the light bulb dimming, can you tell me what is the problem and how to fix,it, thankjs

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antoni guilbert January 22, 2014 at 10:38 am

The garage door goes up and down no problem but if you try to stop 2 feet or so about the ground it slowly drop all the way down Why ???

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john August 23, 2014 at 11:03 am

With the door disconnected, the opener belt seems to be bound up. the opener has power but it can’t move the belt. How do I get the belt to move?

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Sam December 13, 2013 at 4:15 pm

My garage door opener works intermittently, whether I’m using the remote or the pushbutton. Whichever one I’m using, I have to push it several times before it activates the opener, whether opening or closing. Upon examination, I noticed the capacitor smoking and dripping oil, so I replaced it. It didn’t help. Even with the new capacitor, it still activates only intermittently. Even when it does activate, I have to keep pushing down on the button or it stops, leaving the door partially open or closed. What’s going on?

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shubeg brar December 5, 2013 at 9:16 am

i have a chamberlain garage door opener about five years old,.i installed a keypad last week,it was working good for a day,now it opens few times a day itself,even though i have taken away keypad

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Mark December 4, 2013 at 7:53 pm

Our garage door was working until today. The garage door will opens but when I tried to close it, it will try to close but opens back up. I tried everything from cleaning the safety eyes, aligning the safety eyes, resetting and I also tried to manually closing the garage and run the garage motor but it always stop in the middle and just go back to the home position. Any Ideas?
Thanks.

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shirley curley December 19, 2013 at 10:36 am

Mine is doing exactly that, did you find a solution?

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Rod February 11, 2014 at 11:48 am

Mark, it seems that your down force adjustment on your opener is too low causing your opener to be more sensitive. I would first manually release the door and check to see if the door is not heavy or hard to move up and down. You should also test the door to see if it will stay in it’s position that you place it in. If the door moves up or down after you let go of it then your springs need adjustments. If you have torsion springs then I would leave it to the garage door technician for your safety. If that’s not the problem then you need to find the closing and opening force adjustments on you opener and increase the closing force a little bit at a time and test every time.

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valerie moulton November 22, 2013 at 6:08 am

We had a power outage last night. Now the garage door won’t work electrically. I tried resetting the breaker – even though it did not look tripped. There is no light on the control pad and no lights on the sensors at the bottom of the door. The regular garage light works fine. Ideas, please?

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Barbie November 17, 2013 at 10:11 am

Garage door recently stopped opening/closing. Holding button down (any remote or wall button) for a few seconds will eventually open it, usually 4 or 5 times. Overhead Legacy – chain drive. The opener does hum while holding down button. Decided to firmly tap on the plastic area of the motor unit while someone holds button and it immediately opens as normal. Lubricate? Capacitor? Replace whole unit? TIA!

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Kelvin Rodriguez November 17, 2013 at 7:42 am

I have a liftmaster 8550. Everything was closing fine until a worker changed my driveway from blacktop to pavers. The pavers goes a little bit inside the garage. There is a little small gap between the pavers and the cement inside. My door now doesn’t close all the way and once it hit the floor it goes back up. Is there anyway to adjust it?

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Rod February 11, 2014 at 12:02 pm

Kelvin, it seems that your close travel limit need to be adjusted. But before you do that, check to make sure the bottom of the door tracks for any leftover cement the drive way workers may have left that might keep your door from closing all the way. Since you have a Liftmaster 8550, your travel limits are electronically stored. Here is the youtube link to help you fix that: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hCe-ofAuNCw

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wendell November 16, 2013 at 11:09 am

garage door works normal until about two thirds of the way down and then drops suddenly for about a foot then closes rest of the way . any suggestions ?

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Ric Cunningham October 21, 2013 at 3:20 pm

I have a Genie 1/2hp model 2060L screw drive. About three years old. Works perfectly except that sometimes after the door completely raises and stops, it will slowly “bleed down” a few inches. When the down button is then pushed, it works fine. Door just won’t stay fully up sometimes.

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marlin November 15, 2013 at 10:31 am

First thing I would check is to see if the spring tension is correct for balancing the door at mid position when disconnected from the GDO.

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Padraig October 21, 2013 at 7:16 am

I agree with these tips/rules of thumb in the article. I started to work on my door, and as I started to loosen some nuts, things were just getting too tight/under pressure. So I called my local overhead door division, http://www.ohdcsa.com/ – Overhead is all over the country and very trustworthy!

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marlin October 19, 2013 at 6:10 am

My Craftsman Model 139.53673SRT3 GDO was working 100% but recently developed an unusual problem. The Remote works correctly EXCEPT it will not work while the unit lamp is on. Once the 4.5 minutes have timed out the Remote works perfectly. (ie: when I open the garage door with the remote I have to wait the 4.5 minutes to close the door with the remote.) Any suggestions?

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marlin November 6, 2013 at 10:52 am

Do any of the problems posted ever get a logical resolution presented?

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Bob October 11, 2013 at 11:51 pm

I have a belt driven craftsman. Today, my wife and I left and the garage door stopped half way, which I didn’t realize till we came home. The remotes aren’t working and neither is the wall unit, but when I push the remote or the wall unit they both make a clicking noise in the garage door opener. The lights in the door opener also will not come on. The sensors are lit and respond when I put my hand in front of them. I’ve checked the breakers and the outlets. I also unplugged the opener to see if it needed to be reset. It still responded the same way. I have looked at a lot of trouble shooting and comments from others. I’ve not seen the same problem with anyone else.

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Magge October 19, 2013 at 3:09 pm

Bob, I have a very similar problem. There is power to my unit and the switch and sensors light up. The opener makes a clicking sound if the sensors are blocked or aren’t aligned but the motor does doesn’t run. When the sensors are aligned there is no noise at all. I’m thinking the problem is with the motor or the circuit board. Hopefully some knowledgeable Joe or Jane can help out.

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Gloria October 8, 2013 at 4:08 pm

My garage door was working just fine. I left to work came home pushed the remote the door wouldn’t open. Come to find out the button mounted on the wall did not light up. I’m guessing no power to the unit. I reset and checked the main breaker box that did nothing. Can you please tell me why this happens?

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Rhonda January 21, 2014 at 1:10 pm

We’re having the same issue with ours. We can sometimes wiggly or tap on the unit above and the power with come back on. We’ve unpugged it, checked the breaker, & can’t seem to figure it out. Did you get your problem resolved?

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karen October 7, 2013 at 1:16 pm

WE have a RAynor garage door opener, probably about 20 years old, and our remotes have started working inconsistently – even the one built in to the car. I’ve changed batteries, but nothing seems to help, and my concern is that since the one built into the car isn’t working consistently either it might be a signal issue. If someone opens the door (or closes it) for me, then it will work again for a few times, but I never know when it’s going to quit. I have to go out a lot at night and come home late, help!

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Chris October 9, 2013 at 9:31 am

Karen,
We have a similar problem that started fairly recently (1-2 weeks ago). We have a Craftsman 1/2 hp GDO and it works great from the wall unit. Have you been able to figure out what’s going on?
Chris

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tony c October 4, 2013 at 11:24 am

I have to hold down the activate button on the pad inside the garage to operate.. if I let go the door reverses. Its an old Craftsman. Suggestions? Thanks

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Alex October 28, 2013 at 9:16 pm

This sounds like misaligned safety sensors. Clean them and try to align them. Check if the lights on the sensors are on, and if they go off when you interrupt the beam with your hand.

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QUYET NGUYEN September 29, 2013 at 10:23 am

Hi,

My garage door closes fine, but has problem with opening.
Sometime it opens about 1/4 way up and stop, I have to press control up and down several times and then it go all the way up.
Sometime lucky it go all the way up just for pressing control for the first time, but sometime again it stops about 1/4 way up and stop. I have to press control up and down again.
Can you help me with this problem?
Thank you

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Dennis January 7, 2014 at 1:48 pm

My door was acting the same way. I have a Genie 1/2 hp screw drive system that is about 5 years old. My problem is that I was over lubricating and not cleaning out the old grease and grime first. The soultion is simple but kind of messy but well worth the effort.

First lay several sheets of newspaper down below the entire length of track. Then with the door in closed position disconnect the screw from the carriage by pulling down on the hanging string. If the door wont close, disconnect the carriage from whatever position (open or closed) and manually close the door by hand.

Then using WD40 spray the entire underside length of the screw channel with the screw running. Repeat while running the screw in the opposite direction. The WD40 breaks the old grease and grime down into a blackish dripping liquid. After the main dripping stops (10 min or so) begin to wipe along the screw while it is turned off and using folded paper towel or tissue paper slide it along the bottom channel groove on each side until most of the goop is removed.

Next, using a small bead of white lithium grease (available in most home improvement or garage door stores) along the entire channel length and run the screw for about 5 seconds to distribute the grease. Repeat with another bead of grease while running the screw in the opposite direction.

Test by reconnecting the carriage when the door is about half way open by pushing up on the 2 inch carriage arm and using the door opener or the wall switch. The door will either open or close. Run in both directions at least once.

Enjoy your new sounding system (nice and quite) and avoid future problems by greasing lightly twice a year and cleaning at least once every year or two.

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Elaine Tudor September 26, 2013 at 3:23 pm

I have a lift king lk800 the only one in australia i recon it has a unit with
L + – P BUTTONS ON IT
It is not opening or closing correctly as my daughter when we were away
Attempted to open it and has lost the settings.
We have no manual and i am finding it difficult to find one for this model
Can any body HELP !!!!

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G Ricks January 9, 2014 at 8:40 am

“Elaine Tudor September 26, 2013 at 3:23 pm wrote…
I have a lift king lk800
We have no manual and i am finding it difficult to find one for this model”

Elaine did you get a manual if not contact us (we have one) or leave another message on the forum G Ricks

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Mark July 14, 2014 at 4:00 am

Hi Elaine,
I found the second lift king lk800 in Australia and the settings have mysteriously reset. I managed to programme it in the past by patiently decoding the red lights but not this time.
I too need the instructions, did you get any you can pass on?
It would be really appreciated to hear from someone who can provide programming instructions for the lift king dual lift professional LK800.

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issa September 24, 2013 at 10:39 pm

I tried to press the learn button but nothing happens I simply can’t push it down is there another way to make the learn button work for a genie intellicode

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SM September 22, 2013 at 7:11 pm

I have a craftsman 1/2 hp garage opener with chain. For past few days, the opener will not pull the garage door. Each time i need to use my hand on the door to apply some strength to pull it. It does come down most times by itself. The opener makes same sound as before, that means motor is running but unable to pull thr door. What could be wrong with the opener? And how to fix it? Any help?

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knam September 21, 2013 at 10:14 pm

Hello,can someone help us please!my Liftmaster garage opener does not work after we open or close. We have to either wait for 2minutes before it work close or open unless we press the light above off then hand remot will work..What cause this?..Thank you.

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alan September 21, 2013 at 4:26 pm

I have a chamberlin opener. I have to hold down on the button for the door to go down. If I let up on the button the door will automatically go back up. This takes place even with the door disengaged. I’ve tried adjusting the down pressure also. sensors are clear and seem to work. I’m baffeled. It’s been working fine.

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alan September 21, 2013 at 4:39 pm

found a loose wire on one of the sensors

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Fred September 21, 2013 at 1:59 pm

My GDO started acting up last winter. The door would completely close but the motor would keep running/humming. The only way to stop the motor is to push the remote or the wall button. I tried to troubleshoot the problem and came to the conclusion that it was temperature sensitive. For instance, when it is higher than 45F the door works fine, but when below 45F the motor keeps running. All summer the GDO worked fine with no problems. Its now September, and the temperature dropped into the 40s and the motor kept running.

Question: Which GDO component might be temperature sensitive and is easily replaced?

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Barry September 21, 2013 at 9:19 am

I have an older Genie screw drive GDO. The lights recently started staying on. Could it be a faulty limit switch or is it likely something else?

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Denise J. September 20, 2013 at 10:53 am

My garage door doesn’t stop automatically and reopen when it hits something. I am concerned if a child is under it and hits them they could be crushed. The other day I had a small compressor that I use to fill up my car tires. I pressed the button to close the doors and just turned around in time to see it hit the air pressure machine pop out from under the closing door. Thank goodness it didn’t break it but why didn’t the garage door reopen when it hit an obstacle? Please help.

Denise

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Karie Fay September 25, 2013 at 11:00 pm

Oh no Denise! I share your concern on this safety issue. Have you noticed any other problems, such as it slamming to the floor or not wanting to stop in the up position? Did it start happening suddenly? Or are you not sure, you just never noticed before this?

You didn’t mention the maker of your GDO. However, Chamberlain explains in their Liftmaster Owner’s manual that an unbalanced door may not reverse when it’s supposed to. So I would start with that. I would also take a look at the UP and DOWN force settings. If neither solved the problem, I would take a look at my sensors. Fortunately they aren’t awfully expensive. Perhaps they only THINK they are working — and the GDO believes them. I am grasping at straws on that one, but I still think it’s worth looking. If all else fails, try picking a repair service tech’s mind or contact the manufacturer.

Good Luck!
Karie Fay

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Charley September 15, 2013 at 3:17 am

I have a Genie GDO and it stops working after 3 or 4 open / close cycles and the only thing that fixes it is I pull and reset the release cord and it runs 3 or more times before I have to do this again. I have searched for similar problems and troubleshooting tips but cannot find answers to this problem. Help please

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Karie Fay September 25, 2013 at 10:36 pm

Hi Charley,

I love to help when I can, but I am not sure on this one either. The thing that does come to my mind — I am making a stab in the dark here — but are you opening and closing your garage door 3 or 4 times in a short period? GDOs can overheat very quickly. It could be you are allowing it to cool while you are pulling the release cord. If that seems unlikely, I would try to contact Genie or a Genie-certified shop and pick their brain. Obviously something is wrong, but other than that or a logic board problem I am just not sure.

Good Luck,
Karie Fay

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Mike Sommerfield September 12, 2013 at 9:17 am

I have 2 genie garage door openers. one remote opens one door and the other remote operate both doors at the same time… how can I stop it from opening both doors? I reprogrammed it with the learn button, still the same problem.

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coring September 11, 2013 at 2:15 am

hello I have an Mvp garage door opener that stop working the control on the wall has light and the overhead has a blinking light , when i push my remote or the the l remote on the wall nothing happens.

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Karie Fay September 25, 2013 at 10:26 pm

Hi Coring,

Thanks for writing. Unfortunately, I can’t diagnose the problem without more information. When the unit overhead has a blinking light, it’s telling you a fault code. Watch and time the blinks. For instance, a slow steady blink that doesn’t vary in timing is different than 5 blinks, a pause, and another five blinks.

You can easily find your product manual online. I just searched Allstar MVP product manual and came up with several links to free manuals. Look inside and locate the section on fault codes (troubleshooting, page 19). It should help you pinpoint the problem.

Good Luck!
Karie Fay

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Devang September 10, 2013 at 9:15 am

Hi – I have a Chamberlain Security+ garage door opener. The opener works fine when using the push button opener. However, the remote and outside remote code thing don’t work. This is in a new house that I just bought – I tried to program the remote using the instructions, but it doesn’t work. Could it be a logic board issue? Would the garage door opener work from the push button opener if it’s a logic board problem?

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Karie Fay September 25, 2013 at 5:59 pm

Hi Devang,

You mentioned you tried to reprogram your remote. Does it act like it sends a signal (ie lights flash) but nothing happens? Try troubleshooting your issue:

Test your remote batteries with a multimeter or simply replace them.
Program your remote (again) — contact the manufacturer if you’re uncertain if you are doing it correctly.
Remove the light bulb in your GDO. Use an old-style incandescent bulb. Newer CFLs emit a frequency that may interfere with your remotes. Sometimes this is obvious due to a flickering light next to the learn button when the light is on.

If none of these solves the problem, I would think your logic board is going out. The logic board controls wireless operation. You may be able to replace it, replace the opener, or bypass it with something like Skylink GBRM.

Hope that helps!
Karie Fay

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eric September 6, 2013 at 7:36 pm

my gdo i hit the button and it starts to go down about a foot, and then it stops and goes back up nothing is in the way ofthe sensers. no clue what with he deal is.

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Karie Fay September 25, 2013 at 5:47 pm

Hi Eric,

Have you also checked the lights on your sensors? You don’t mention which kind of opener you have, but likely one is a yellow and one is green. If you don’t see green, there’s a problem preventing the eyes from “seeing” each other. So if you are relying on your sight to say nothing is in the way of the sensors, while you may be right there can still be a malfunction.

Try inspecting each sensor. Look for a broken wire or other visible damage. The wires are really small and break easily. Also examine where it attaches to the sensor — sometimes it’s simply not making good contact.

I really think it’s the sensor. Try that troubleshooting and see if it helps.

Good Luck!
Karie Fay

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Rayda September 2, 2013 at 6:19 pm

Electrical power is off and I can’t figure out how to unlock it manually

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Karie Fay September 5, 2013 at 5:54 pm

Hi Rayda,

I am unclear what you are asking. If your power is off to your home you can still operate the garage door manually, if that’s what you mean. Somewhere between the gdo motor and the door, along the track, you should see a cord hanging down. This is the manual release. Pull on it to disengage the carriage and use the door without the gdo.

Hope this helps,
Karie Fay

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John August 29, 2013 at 8:13 pm

I have an Overhead Door Legacy GDO. It can be opened and closed with the emergency cord, and stays in place when working it manually. The sensors are lighted properly. The problem is that the unit will not work with remotes or the wired wall opener (no lock feature on it by the way). When I press the wall switch, all the overhead unit does is hum. No motion at all. No sound like gears are activated. It just hums. This all happened after the door came down on my wife’s bumper. I had to manually re-engage the carriage to the chain and it worked great for a few times. Now it just hums.

Please help……. Thank you!

John

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Vince October 31, 2013 at 6:59 am

Hey John,

Check if the cover protection bolt is jammed with the trolley, if it is this might be the cause, try to remove the cover protection bolt to remove the jam, then try your wall/remote control if it works, if it works then put back the cover protection bolt but adjust the distance according to manual (2″-4″).

Goodluck.

-Vince.

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Hardin Montoya August 28, 2013 at 11:48 am

These are very helpful tips in case of not opening the garage door . Hope other homeowner’s also follow these important tips. Thanks for sharing these tips.

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Carmen August 25, 2013 at 1:53 pm

I have a Genie Pro Screw Drive (16 yr old) that opens a double garage door. It opens about a foot and then closes. Does the same thing when it is operated manually. However, when you hold the button on the wall down, it will open and close normally. Looks like a thin cable is very loose on 1 side…not sure what it looked like before this incident. Is this repairable at a reasonable cost or should I replace the unit? Thank you!

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Carmel August 31, 2013 at 9:14 pm

most likely the spring is broken on one side. If you happen to have TorqueMaster Springs, you will not be able to see the spring which is inside a steel tube. Holding the wall button down will bypass the automatic switch. In this case, you have applied too much stress on the L bracket connected to the door. Please get the spring replaced ASAP.

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Marisa avery August 24, 2013 at 2:37 pm

We just bought a house with an OLD garage door opener. No sensors that i can see. Standard old clunky remote with a doorbell opener in the garage. We have the harage FULL of stuff from the move and I went to close the door from the inside switch. The door closed, or so I thought. I went outside to move my car and saw that the door was about 1 foot open at the bottom, as a plastic bucket had fallen in the way. I tried to open with the remote and it clicked but wouldn’t. I went inside and climbed over stuff to pull the bucket put. Once it was all clear, i tried opening from the inside–clicks but doesn’t open. The light on the motor unit turns on but nothing starts moving. Same if i use the remote. Now we have a garage full of stuff and no way to get the door opened or closed fully. Ideas? Thanks!!!

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bill landry August 17, 2013 at 8:08 am

I back out of my garage and push the close button in my car,and the door starts to close about 3 inches then goes back up. Some times it will close but most times it wont. I go to inside and try to close it but if I take by finger off of the switch it stops. A frien said something about nylon gears may be worn I don’t know what he means.When I pull into the garage and try to close it nothing happens. The light flashes 3 times.Any help will be thankful

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steve August 17, 2013 at 7:28 am

3 remotes dont work but keypad does

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Bonnie August 16, 2013 at 2:35 pm

I have three garage doors. All of the red and green lights are on, but two of the doors will not close. I have cleaned the lenses, cleared the lights, straighten them so they are level, what else can I do. One has not worked for years, the other one that I use all the time just quit going down.
Please help.
Thank you,
Bonnie Bents

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Dennis Allen August 10, 2013 at 1:02 pm

where is the smart learn button on the motor head on the Stanley 7200 model

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Karie Fay August 17, 2013 at 11:58 pm

Hi Dennis,

A SecureCode system features a “Learn” or “remote” button on the back of the motor head. You should be able to push it twice to clear the system, then enter the number you want. Push the button one last time and it should be set with your new code. If the light starts blinking rapidly, start over and repeat the process.

Hope this helps!
Karie Fay

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Carol August 7, 2013 at 5:33 am

We have a 3 bay garage with 3 separate doors operated by remotes and three buttons on the wall that look lie door bell switches, they are lite up. Mine sudden stopped working, the lights is off and it doesn’t work, the remote continues to work. They are all on the same breaker. What could the problem be?

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Russ July 30, 2013 at 5:49 pm

my manual release opened automatically without even pulling on the cord but now will not close. I have tried pulling on the rope but it won’t return to lock. I don’t want to force it (hammer). What do you suggest ?
Thank you,
Russ

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steve July 29, 2013 at 2:21 pm

I have a craftsman 1/2 hp garage door opener. The down limit continues to change. I adjust the door to leave about 1/2 inch when it closes. After a few days it goes down so hard it reverses and goes back up. I have to then readjust the down limit. Shouldn’t the adjustment stay where I set it?

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Chance July 21, 2013 at 10:19 pm

My friend opened my genie garage with the wall mounted remote. Then I went to close it and it wouldn’t close nothing on the wall mounted remote worked. Or was like it was stuck on lock mode. Bit then I used my car remote and it worked fine. And suggestion. The wall remote wouldn’t even turn on the light. Nothing. ?????

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Karie Fay August 17, 2013 at 11:44 pm

Hi Chance,

Have you checked for the lock mode? It sounds like that to me as well. Alternatively, the wall unit might have went completely out. Or, it could even be bad wiring leading to the wall unit. If you’re handy with a multimeter and are brave, you can check that out yourself. Or, have a professional look at it for you.

Hope that helps,
Karie Fay

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Con513 July 21, 2013 at 8:33 am

I have a Genie Trac Drive 940a and the motor runs and all the gears are turning but the trac chain (I guess that is what it is called, it runs directly into the unit) will not move. Can you tell me what the issue could be? The unit has been running fine and all of a sudden I came home and tried to open the garage door and it would go up a few inches and stop. I disengaged the door so it is on manual now but it seems to go up and down just fine in the manual position. Please help :)

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s young July 15, 2013 at 8:57 am

We recently purchased a new Genie garage Door opener. However, whenever we press either the remotes or the key pad it opens & closes our neighbours garage door as well as our own. We have tried changing the codes but we still have the same problem

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Your Neighbor July 15, 2013 at 12:13 pm

Mr. Young – Now I know why my garage door opens/closes at whim!!!

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Milcah July 10, 2013 at 9:48 am

Hello,

I recently bought a house and I noticed that when I open or close the garage door my second floor bedrooms that are above of the garage heavily shake. I would like to know if this is a normal behavior?

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Karie Fay August 17, 2013 at 11:41 pm

Hi Milcah,

Considering how heavy a garage door is, not including the rails and attached parts, I would think it is possible. However, I would want to get someone to look at it — a general contractor or someone licensed in building. You should be able to stabilize and reinforce the building so it doesn’t shake badly. I would also watch the garage door/ garage door opener in action to see if it seems to vibrate excessively.

Hope that helps,
Karie Fay

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Paul July 4, 2013 at 8:18 am

My garage door won’t close unless I hold the switch down the entire time it is closing. Soon as I let go of the switch it reverses and goes back up. It opens fine. The red light is lit and solid on the electric eye (light on one side only) and goes out if you block the beam.

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Paul July 4, 2013 at 8:41 am

Let me add that the remote switches only open the door and will stop it from opening farther, but if pushed again will continue opening the door, So the hard wire switch will reverse the door every time pushed, but the remotes will only go in the opening direction. I also unplugged the sensors for the electric eye and door operation did not improve, even when I shorted across the electric eye terminals so the electronic eye seems fine.

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Lisa June 30, 2013 at 9:02 pm

our garage door works fine when it is going up, but when we try to close it from our remotes or the wall unit, the door goes down a few inches and stops (doesn’t go back up, just jerks to a stop). It does not make a difference if we hold the button down, it still stops. We have to push button several times before it closes all the way. Cleaned sensors and green and orange lights are on. The garage door and closer are 7.5 years old. Any advice is much appreciated!!!

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Karie Fay July 10, 2013 at 10:25 pm

Hi Lisa!

Good thinking to check your sensors first. However, I am thinking you might need to adjust your force or limits. It almost sounds like the door is stopping where it thinks it should. You didn’t mention the make, however.

Try unhooking your opener and moving the door by hand. Is it balanced and easy to open and close? It shouldn’t take more than two fingers to test. If you find any problems, that might be the answer.

With the door hooked back up, check and test your down force adjustment, as I covered in the article. Turn it maybe half a turn and try closing the door. See if that makes a difference.

I would also adjust the limit switch if that doesn’t work. While you’re up there, look for any blinking code lights or signs of damage as well.

Good luck!
Karie Fay

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Lisa July 11, 2013 at 9:40 pm

Thank you! I will try your tips tomorrow!!!
Lisa

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Lisa July 11, 2013 at 9:41 pm

p.s. garage door opener is a craftsman. :)

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Bob Maddux June 26, 2013 at 9:06 am

Everything on my door has been checkout. The problem is when the door is in the close position for awhile the light will began to blink and there is a clicking noise inside the unit. The unit will not operate, I have to disengage the power for awhile replugged the unit and it will work, sometime the light blinking and the clicking noise starts after closing the door, most of the time after the door has been down for awhile. We have had some storms and power outage and this is an older unit approx 10 years old.

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Karie Fay July 10, 2013 at 10:13 pm

Hi Bob,

Sorry to say it, but it sounds like a problem logic board to me. Like all electronics, your GDO is vulnerable to power surges that sometimes occur during electrical storms or blackouts. The good news is the board is fairly simple to replace. However, depending on the price, you may be better off getting a new opener. Ten years is getting old in view of the typical life expectancy. Your mileage may vary.

Hope that helps!
Karie Fay

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Lori June 24, 2013 at 10:42 am

Hi- my remote will work if I’m standing right under the unit, but not if I’m outside with the door closed. Repairman says I blew the circuit board with flourescent bulbs. I think it’s the antenna…would the remote and wall unit work if the circuit board was blown??

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Karie Fay June 30, 2013 at 9:02 pm

Hi Lori,

You can try running a wire from your antenna to the metal rails and see if that solves your problem. However, I have to agree that the logic board is the likely culprit. A common symptom of blown logic boards is needing to be right under or near the door to get the remote to work.

What happens is that the fluorescent bulbs give off infrared light. Your GDO works on infrared signals. Since the bulb is right beside the logic board, this causes problems.

I would try changing the light bulb first. If that doesn’t fix the problem, you’re probably looking at either replacing the logic board or the GDO itself.

Consider calling another service professional and picking their brain for a second opinion… Many are willing to help you out if you ask “could this happen?”

Hope this helps,
Karie Fay

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Jack June 22, 2013 at 8:19 pm

I have a Sears Craftsman 1/2 HP GDO installed on Dec. 2007. On May 2012, motor unit humed about 1 second and did not operate; diagnostic code showed 5 flashes. I did re-set by unplug the power to get GDO working again. This thing still happened, so I replaced RPM sensor. Got not much help either. Replaced logic board on June 2012, the unit was working again. Until May 2013, motor humed for 1 second and did not move again. Re-set with unplug the power could not get motor moving either. Ordered and replaced another logic board, I still could not get motor moving. Motor just hums for about 1 second and diagnostic code showed 5 flashes. Losen the trolley nut to decrease the chain tension got no help either. Did the motor get stuck? How to get motor un-stuck? I knew the motor was not overheated. All the testings I did with door trolley disconnected. Any suggestion? Thanks.

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Peter Gregory June 20, 2013 at 2:04 pm

Karie, thanks for all the info! My belt just broke and I would like to know how to replace it. So far I have not seen any replacement belts but it seems ridiculous to spend $250 on a complete replacement unit. Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance.

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Karie Fay June 30, 2013 at 9:21 pm

Hi Peter,

Replacing your GDO belt is typically fairly simple… However, you don’t mention the brand so I am unable to give you specific information. In general, it looks like after unplugging your GDO, you should look for a tensioning spring that attaches to your traveler.

Use a screwdriver and crescent wrench to pop the tensioning spring free. The tensioning screw, to which the belt attaches with a clip, should be loose at this point. Then, pop the clip free and remove the master drive chain link to release the screw from the belt. Release the belt’s teeth to disconnect from the grooves on the sprocket. Take the belt off the traveler slider and use a wrench to loosen the pulley fastenings. A nut, washer, and bolt are holding this pulley in place. Loosen and remove. Slide the belt from the pulley — it may be stubborn — and from the hole at the end of the bar.

To replace the belt, reverse your actions.

YouTube is a great place to find videos showing repairs. Your owner’s manual probably gives more specific instructions as well — if you don’t have yours, try looking online for a copy of the manual.

Hope this helps,
Karie Fay

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Judy June 18, 2013 at 7:50 pm

Hi Kaye, My garage door opened this morning and I backed out of the garage. I tried to use the remote to close the door, but it would not close. I walked back into to the garage and the opener motor was running but the chain was not moving. I disengaged the door and it closed quickly hitting the floor with a thud. It sounds like two problems to me. The spring doesn’t appear to be broken but the door not staying in position until pulled down makes me suspect there is a spring problem.
Is the chain not moving part of the spring problem or something different.
Thanks

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Richard June 16, 2013 at 2:46 pm

I have a Genie garage door opener. It will open and close several times, then quit. If I unplug the opener for about 45 seconds, replug it, it will work several times then stop again.Any ideas?

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Karie Fay July 10, 2013 at 10:05 pm

Hi Richard,

You’re essentially resetting the unit when you unplug it for a bit then plug it back in. You didn’t mention if this occurs with both the remote openers as well as your wall opener unit. My best guess is you have a problem with your logic board that controls everything. However, if it only presents with your wall opener unit, it’s possible it’s a short as well.

Hope that helps,
Karie Fay

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Dave June 16, 2013 at 1:17 pm

Hello,

Chamberlain 1/2 HP Chain Drive GDO. Replaced Driver gear (stripped w/ pile of plastic ‘snow’ inside) & worm Gear, but now when I hit open & close, it moves about a foot then reverses about a foot. Have it closed, hit button and it’ll open about a foot and then close again. Doesn’t seem like it runs enough to open all the way? Tried all the adjustments, what did I miss or did I not reassemble the right way? Any help or thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks!

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Hank July 26, 2013 at 12:47 pm

Dave—I did the same thing, replaced the gears. Now the door will open completely but won’t close. It go about 1 foot and reverses. I can get it to close by hitting the button when it stop going down and hit the button again. It will travel another foot and stop and reverse. If I keep hitting the button when it stops I can get it all the way down. Seems like a lot of wear on the gears and motor. Did you get any respones to your problem? My opener is a Craftsman chain driven and old.—Thanks

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Joe June 11, 2013 at 10:50 am

Hello,
My garage door wouldn’t open. The light on the wall switch does not light, no light on the sensors and the motor unit does not light. We could manually open the garage door even with the lever on the lock position. What could be the problem.

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Eric June 14, 2013 at 5:45 pm

Same issue here. Wife hit button in garage yesterday morning, pulled car out, then door wouldn’t close. No noise, no light, garage switch is no longer lit. I reset breaker, then unplugged opener and plugged light into same socket. I have power to the outlet, but it acts like there is no power getting to motor or lights, switch, etc.

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Karie Fay June 15, 2013 at 10:22 pm

Hi Joe!

It’s highly unusual for a garage door opener to just completely quit all of a sudden. As a result, I suggest you check the simple things first, if you haven’t already.

Look at your breakers and, if none look tripped, turn them off and back on again (or the one powering your opener if you know exactly which one it is). Also test the outlet to make sure it has power there — use a lamp or something similar.

Is there a kill switch on your wall unit? Sometimes it’s accidentally activated, and it keeps the unit from powering up completely. I would also try unplugging it for a while to reset it, if possible, before going further.

If you still haven’t found the culprit, it’s possible the logic board is bad. Have you had lightning recently, or a power surge of any kind? A logic board contains fuses. It’s possible these fuses are blown — and you can’t replace them. At that point, you have to either replace the board or buy a new opener. Both are comparable in cost, roughly. How old is your GDO? Is it time to just buy a new one?

Hope that helps,
Karie Fay

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Kevin R June 5, 2013 at 3:09 pm

I just got a new garage door installed today, and the opener will only close the door with me helping push it closed, sometimes it also needs help to open the door. I tried adjusting the force all the way up, thinking that the new spring was too much for the opener to handle, but that didn’t seem to help. Any ideas? I have Sears coming out to look at it, but would love to fix it myself if that’s a possibility. The opener is only three years old, but I’m worried that it may have been damaged when I tried to use it with the old door.

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Richard Klippenstein June 7, 2013 at 8:29 am

I have 1/2 hp sears about three old. I have intermittent problem when I use the remote it acts like there is something in the way and light blinks but it dose it only the morning when the sun is shining bright into the garage, would that be the problem?

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jim June 13, 2013 at 3:16 am

Hi there I am in the garage door Business and Sun itself Will cause a problem with your photo eyes

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Gene June 3, 2013 at 5:28 pm

We have a GENIE unit and when the weather is cool or early morning, everything works fine, then up later in the day when the temperature rises above 75 or 80, the unit will open fine but does not want to come down. When I push the remote button to come down, it will start but will come down only a few inches or a foot, then will go back up. We push the remote button every so often and eventually it’ll go down.
I don’t know how old the unit is, but we’ve been here 4 years. It makes no difference which remote we use. Hope you can help us. Thanks

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Gerald July 6, 2013 at 3:42 pm

Check the safety sensors. Later in the day the sun may be shining just right into one or both of the sensors. To check, create a shadow over the sensors then try using your garage door.

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Roland June 3, 2013 at 2:50 pm

My garage door will open properly by pushing either remote or wall unit but when I try to close it I must hold down the wall unit button constantly until it closes fully. If I try and close it by just touching the wall unit it stops abruptly. Any suggestions. Thanks in advance.

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Karie Fay June 21, 2013 at 3:03 am

Hi Roland,

I suspect that what you’re describing is a sensor issue. The safety sensors only worry about the door when it’s closing, after all, so you’re not having issues with that. However, if for any reason your sensors have an issue it will prevent the door from closing. Holding the button in would override the sensors. So, my suggestion is to look closer at your sensors. It could be as simple as they are out of alignment, or as drastic as they need replacement.

Hope that helps!
Karie Fay

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Sh-b July 10, 2013 at 3:19 am

Where can you get replacement sensor? Are they universal or would I have to go through our specific garage door opener company? Thank you

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Karie Fay July 10, 2013 at 9:58 pm

Hi!

I just did a quick search, and found some low-cost universal garage door opener sensors on Amazon and eBay as well. You may find a retailer locally who carries them as well — it doesn’t hurt to ask. You didn’t mention the brand you’re interested in, but each manufacturer has a replacement part available as well.

Good luck!
Karie Fay

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cory June 3, 2013 at 2:34 pm

when it gets how or the sun shines brightly then my remote always opens the door but it will start to shut the door but then reverse and go back up. this does not happen when in the morning it is cooler or not in direct sunlight. any suggestions?

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Karie Fay June 16, 2013 at 12:13 am

Hi Cory!

That’s a classic symptom of a sensor telling your garage door opener that it isn’t safe to close. I suspect that the sunlight is messing with your sensors as you say the sun is shining brightly — and when it’s hot, it’s probably bright as well.

What happens is the receiving unit can’t see the beam coming from the transmitting sensor. Try building shades to block the sunlight, or swap the sensors so the transmitter is on the opposite side.

Hope that helps!
Karie Fay

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mike June 1, 2013 at 2:56 pm

1/2 hp craftman gdo has power but motor will not run
sensors are ok. remotes just turn lights on.

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Karie Fay June 15, 2013 at 10:34 pm

Hi Mike,

Thanks for the question. Do you hear any noise from it at all, even for a second? Did it happen suddenly? It would help you to pinpoint whether it’s the unit or not.

At this point I would suggest turning off the power and taking the cover off, if you feel confident doing so. Try turning it by hand to make sure nothing’s jammed up. If it turns, that tells you it’s quite possibly the logic board — which costs near as much as a new opener. It could also be a capacitor or a blown motor.

You should also try holding the wall switch down for several seconds to see if that works. If it does, you may only have a bad RPM sensor.

How old is your GDO? The average ‘life expectancy’ is only about 10 years, so if it’s getting old and nothing works, you might simply wish to buy a new one.

Hope this helps,
Karie Fay

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Rhonda May 28, 2013 at 4:16 am

remote will not open door, most obvious clue to the problem is the manual key lock is no longer flush with the door (it is popped out) and I’m not sure where that key is. will I be able to fix this situation or call a repairman

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yvonne montgomery May 26, 2013 at 3:30 pm

If I take off garage door sensors, one does not work, bind them together , put up on the wall, will the door still go up and down?

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Karie Fay June 15, 2013 at 10:37 pm

Hi Yvonne,

Thanks for the question. The short answer is yes, you can bind sensors together and make the garage door opener work as long as they recognize each other (work when bound together). However, that’s bypassing an important safety feature. In the past, when I was a child, there were instances of children dying when trapped under a garage door. I can’t recommend it for this reason.

Hope this helps,
Karie Fay

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Bill Alexander May 20, 2013 at 7:47 am

My Garage door will open automatically, and randomly by itself.

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MJ May 30, 2013 at 5:26 am

My guess would be that it’s being triggered by other wireless devices. I believe you can change the code that triggers the opener and then follow the steps to re-marry the remote-controller to match the opener.

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duane arntson May 31, 2013 at 9:48 pm

my door is doing the sme..
ithas happened at 4:00 in the morning.
it opens by itself. we may leave the house and when we return the door may be opened.
please help…….

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louis May 20, 2013 at 4:44 am

how to connect a new chain to my garage door, chain drive on genie chain glide
model PCG700ML
I have replace the chain , but don’t know how to connect to to sprocket

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Papernpaste May 17, 2013 at 2:41 pm

Today, when returning from an errand, my remote didn’t open the garage door. The remote light lights when I press the remote but the door doesnt open. My wife’s remote operates the door. The remote on the wall in garage oprates. I changed the battery in my remote with not positive change. Should I assume that the remote has permanently stopped working? Any trouble shooting tips would be appreciated. Thanks

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Kathy May 14, 2013 at 4:41 pm

As my garage door closed, I heard a loud snap. There was white plastic (teflon?) dust on my car. I tried to open the door. It did open and a piece of plastic (teflon?) fell on top of the car. I then closed the door again. Could this be some kind of guide for the track that just snapped? Will it cause damage if I use it without calling a repairman? Thank you for any advise you can give.

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Andy June 11, 2013 at 6:49 pm

Since you said it’s kind of white plastic/teflon dust, I’m thinking that most likely it’s the plastic gear worn out. You can open the opener casing and verify, or need to replace it. I don’t know why it’s made out of plastic, I guess so that it break first instead of motor burn out in case something stuck, but I would think they can use other method to detect motor overload.

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Marilyn May 14, 2013 at 9:46 am

Hi
My garage door opens fine. The only way to get it to close is to hold my finger on the wall unit until the door is all the way down. The wall unit has a green light inside of it and it blinks rapidly all the time.

Thank you for your help.

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cory June 3, 2013 at 2:36 pm

i have the same problem but only later in the day when it is warm.

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Suzie May 10, 2013 at 12:34 pm

Hi Karie,

My problem with my old Sears garage door opener is that it opens, I pull in and close it with my garage door remote (in my Jeep) and it closes but then opens back up with a buzzing sound, and stays that way. What causes this ???

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Paul S May 5, 2013 at 1:26 pm

I have a Wayne Dalton 2115 chain drive opener. When it tries to open it sounds like the chain is slipping with a loud chatter and the door doesn’t open and the chain just vibrates. I disconnected the door from the opener (no load) and it does the same. I pulled the chain to the open position and activated it and the chain moves to the closed position. Is it repairable?

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carl May 1, 2013 at 11:20 pm

A garage door opener keypad is an electronic device that is meant to open an automatic garage door. The keypad often contains a code that must be entered in the exact order in order to active the automatic garage door opener.

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jrr May 1, 2013 at 9:19 am

Hi,
I have 1/2 hp Craftsman chain garage opener, a bit over 10 yrs old. Obviously not working not with car remotes or wall mounted. Check the springs, cable and gear unit and all looks fine. Manual operation works perfect, what could be the problem? Calling the professional or replacing the unit, is the solution?

Thanks in advance for minimizing/helping-out the problem.
Jrr

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Karie Fay May 10, 2013 at 10:55 pm

Hi Jrr,

Thanks for writing in. Great details in your question by the way. Unfortunately, chances are all I can do is minimize the situation for you…

Did it just stop working suddenly? Did it give any warning or make any noise? I ask only as it might help reinforce my suspicion. You checked all the right things. The only thing left is the unit itself — specifically, the logic board.

The logic board is fairly expensive. Given the age of your GDO and the cost of replacing the part versus replacing the opener, I would suggest going and buying a new one. You should be able to get a decent opener for little more than you would pay for a repairman plus parts — and possibly cheaper.

Keep in mind the average life expectancy of a garage door opener is about 10 years. Sure some last much longer, but some much shorter as well. Hopefully your next one will last 20 years or more!

Hope that helps,
Karie Fay

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Judy M. April 21, 2013 at 4:44 pm

Our garage door is opening and closing by itself. Have started to put the lock on at night to prevent random openings. Have not been able to see neighbor garage doors open at these times. Do you think an electrical malfunction in the unit? or perhaps another unit near by on the same frequency and how to correct? Would appreciate your input. Thanks!

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Karie Fay June 15, 2013 at 11:58 pm

Hi Judy,

Your garage door opener works on a radio frequency. There are many, many things that can interfere with that frequency, and they may or may not be in your home. You can buy “frequency conversion kits” for around $50 that will change the frequency it operates on in order to overcome any interference.

Hope that helps,
Karie

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Prince April 15, 2013 at 8:59 am

i just fix garage door but this one is giving me serious problem because is open in half way and stop, i have try different way to set it but is still same problem

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Karie Fay June 10, 2013 at 3:09 am

Hi Prince,

Try checking your spring system. If the springs aren’t working properly, the door is heavier than the opener can handle. Opening half way and stopping is a classic result. Another possibility is the logic board — the brain of the opener.

Hope that helps,
Karie Fay

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Vinod April 6, 2013 at 5:38 pm

I have a strange problem with my Garage Door Opener, which I haven’t been able to find any reason for…
Occasionally (usually in the morning) my opener completely stops working, almost as if there is no power to it. The Wall remote light will be out and so would be the light on the garage opener. None of the remotes will work either. I have checked the breaker and it would be good (and not tripped).
If I turn off the breaker for around a minute and then turn it on, everything about the garage door opener would be working again and it will work normally for several days. (I have also had instance where this happened 2-3 times in a single day, and also several weeks where it has not happened).
Do you have any ideas on what could be wrong?
(1/2 hp craftsman, ~10 years old)
Thank you

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eddie May 1, 2013 at 6:00 pm

i’m having the same problem , door goes up or down and stops, the light on the switch on the wall, goes off at the same time , than resets itself 30 seconds later and than it will work again! could it be the starter motor or some relay? thanks

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Karie Fay June 10, 2013 at 3:25 am

Hi Guys,

I find your garage door opener’s actions curious. It stops working whether it’s going up or down, correct? If it was just up, I would be inclined to think the problem is mechanical — a bolt hanging up and catching the door on its track or bad springs, for instance.

I would probably try disconnecting your GDO and opening and closing the door to double check. However, I suspect the usual troubleshooting — force adjustment, resets, cleaning sensors, etc. — won’t have any effect.

A likely suspect, in my opinion, is either the logic board (the brains of the opener) or the RPM sensor board. It’s possible there’s simply a loose wire leading to either, or the board itself failed. Unless you have experience with wiring and feel up to looking at it yourself, I would suggest consulting a professional.

Hope that helps,
Karie Fay

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Richard C. Powell April 6, 2013 at 11:16 am

I have a Genie 1/2 horsepower, model H6000A screw drive system. My problem is when operating the door up or down. The screw drive will some times bine up (coming to a stop). The system is about twelve years old. I have cleaned my screw drive while in place and have gotten a lot of black grease, some of it very stiff. I have own this place for six years and only use Genie garage door spray lubricant. Can anyone help me.

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S Edmondson March 30, 2013 at 2:35 pm

I have a garage door that was put in about 12 years ago been working fine went to raise it one night and nothing happened would raise up a little then stop usually can manully raise the door with no problem now it takes two people to raise it and the cables do not wind back around the bar going across the top of the door

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Karie Fay June 10, 2013 at 3:03 am

Hi,

Is your garage door still giving you problems? It sounds to me like what you’re describing is an instance of spring failure. This makes the door very heavy, which is what it sounds like you are describing. Springs can be very dangerous — if you’re not experienced working with them, please call a professional.

Hope that helps,
Karie Fay

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Maurice H March 28, 2013 at 7:00 pm

Hi i have a 1/2 craftmans chain drive opener,and the light does not come on..opener is less then a year old..i tryed unplugging it to see if it would reset.but light still does not work…….

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don jiracek March 28, 2013 at 9:26 am

garage door hits the floor and reverses to open again, tried adjusting close limit switch. Did not help. Called overhead door company. they sent tech out worked on it for three hours and could not fix problem. They did not charge us since they could not fix problem. Opener is about five years old. Any ideas?

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Karie Fay June 10, 2013 at 2:58 am

Hi Don,

If it completely hits the floor, I think we can rule out a sensor problem. I am curious why the service tech couldn’t find the problem. Perhaps it’s simply time to replace it. How old is it? These days GDOs are fairly reasonable to purchase, so I suspect you would spend as much on a technician who can track down the problem as simply buying a new one.

Hope that helps!
Karie Fay

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Merv March 26, 2013 at 5:02 pm

My GDO has worked great for over 5 years. All of a sudden it opens appx 4.5 ft & stops. I have tried to adjust the up limit & no go. I back it off & it responds ok to reversing the pot & opens even less just like you would expect. I turned the up the adjustment to full clockwise open & door still wont open past 4.5 ft. The down limit & force adjustments work ok. No luck getting it to reset doing the unplug thing & the safety sensors work fine. I had to back off the down limit cuzz the close cycle was trying to push the garage door thru the cement floor.
It seems like all is well but it wont open all the way
Merv

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Karie Fay June 10, 2013 at 2:54 am

Hi Merv,

If you’re still having problems with your garage door opener, I would suggest looking at the door assembly itself — specifically, the springs.

A broken spring (either the torsion spring, which sits above the door with a metal rod running through it, or an extension spring, which run on the side of the door near the tracks) or even a spring that is worn out can cause the door to become heavy — heavier than the GDO can move easily.

It’s possible it’s the circuit board — the brain of your GDO. A recent power surge or just age and wear can cause it to go bad. It’s pretty expensive, however — often nearly the cost of a new GDO.

I’d look at the door first before thinking about a new GDO.

Hope that helps!
Karie Fay

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Mike Jones March 25, 2013 at 7:50 am

I’ve got a M.O.M. garage door opener, I’ve had it for about 20 years and it’s worked perfectly until about a week ago. My daughter pulled her car into the garage, the door opened just fine but wouldn’t close with either of the remotes or the wall switch. I checked the power supply and have no problem there, breaker wasn’t thrown and power to the recepticle. Any ideas?
Thanks!
Mike

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Karie Fay May 10, 2013 at 10:45 pm

Hi Mike!

Well, I doubt your daughter had anything to do with it, she just had bad timing. (haha)

Jokes aside, wow, 20 years is pretty good for a garage door opener. If all else fails and you have to replace it, at least you got a lot of life out of it.

I feel like you did all the obvious things. What you described is classic power supply failure. Checking power to the outlet is the solution, which you did. You don’t mention any weird sounds, and if it was failure of a particular component I would expect either that or for it to go up but not down, down but not up, etc. So to me that eliminates force adjustments, sensor malfunctions, remote failure, etc.

Linear is the company responsible for the Moore-O-Matic. While it appears to me that many of the replacement parts are no longer available, the company is still around. It might be worth contacting them and seeing what they have to say. Just look for linearcorp online.

If it has indeed given up the ghost, as I have an inkling, you have had a good run with it. The average life span of a GDO is much shorter — around 10 to 12 years if I remember right. Sounds like yours was well cared for.

Hope the information helps,
Karie Fay

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laura graddy March 25, 2013 at 12:45 am

The plastic cover I tap on the opener inside the garage broke from being hit, so I tried to glue it back together and its fine but now won’t work. When I take it off to press the button it works, though. Don’t know what’s wrong .

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Karie Fay May 10, 2013 at 3:15 pm

Hi Laura,

From what you describe, the first thing that comes to my mind is a short in the system. I am not sure, with what you said, if you might have shorted it out when it got hit or if it happened when you glued it back together. I would suggest to continue to operate it without, for now. If you can provide me with more specifics, I may be able to figure out a solution.What kind of opener is it, most importantly? You might consider calling the manufacturer as well — they likely have a service number. Or, stop by the retailer — often they are a wealth of information as well.

Hope that helps!
Karie Fay

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Joe D March 23, 2013 at 6:55 pm

My remotes will work in the garage but will not work outside the garage what could this be

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Karie Fay April 26, 2013 at 12:38 am

Hi Joe,

Have you checked the batteries? It’s a good place to start. I also wonder if you recently changed the light bulb in the opener? If you did, and the new bulb is a compact fluorescent, you could be creating RF (radio frequency) distortion.

Usually when a problem like yours occurs, it’s due to RF interference. I am not sure if your opener has a LED light on the unit that might blink to show interference? Some things that can cause this are television remotes, motion detectors, cell phones, and other electronic items. What happens is the RF signal emitted confuses your GDO’s logic board.

To troubleshoot, see if removing the batteries from one remote makes the other one stronger. Try turning off circuit breakers, one at a time, until the opener works correctly. (That’s the easy part. If turning off a certain circuit fixes the problem, you still have to figure WHAT on that circuit is causing the problem!) Test all the remotes in your house too — just take the batteries out.

If all else fails, you can upgrade to a different operating frequency. But first, try another fix that sometimes works — attach a 2-foot-long piece of wire to the antenna on the overhead unit. If it works, that’s great! If not, at least nothing is lost.

Hope this helps!
Karie Fay

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J.Shaughnessy March 23, 2013 at 9:41 am

In all your comments, I saw nothing about HOW to clean sediment buildup from inner prongs of remote garage door openers. I’ve tried knocking off w/knife tip & toothpick – then tried a tiny paintbrush using vinegar (nope) then baking soda. The first thing I tried was new batteries (nope). The door works fine from the inside mechanism but one remote went down, then a 2nd despite all my cleaning attempts. I’m convinced it’s the sediment buildup but am nervous about getting the inside green card of the remotes wet w/WD-40 or baby oil. HELP!!!

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Karie Fay May 10, 2013 at 3:11 pm

Hi J,

Sorry for the wait! Have you resolved your issue with your remotes?

If you haven’t, try opening up the remote and cleaning the contacts from inside. Use some steel wool or sandpaper, and knock the debris out before reassembling. That’s what I would do.

I am curious if some keys work and some don’t? While you have it open, look for frayed wiring, signs of malfunction (burnt looking areas, melted, etc.) Also, try resetting your system if you haven’t already. Unplug the opener unit for 5 minutes or more, then plug it back in.

Dirty contacts can indeed be a problem. Hopefully the above works. With both remotes going out at different times, I tend to think it isn’t a frequency problem or with the unit itself. However, I can’t be sure. If all else fails, consider a universal remote system.

Hope that helps,
Karie Fay

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Mark Braithwaite March 14, 2013 at 12:08 pm

i have a stanley opener and noticed white smoke comming from unit. now will only work disconnected from door. looking for a possible cheap fix and reading it could come from a capacitor. do you recomend starting my troubleshooting there or the motor?

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Karie Fay April 26, 2013 at 12:25 am

Hi Mark!

Sorry for the delay! Have you resolved your problem garage door opener problem? If not, I believe you will find the problem is the capacitor. Overheating your garage door with too heavy of a load or too frequent opening and closing in too short of time is rough on these parts. It should be an easy fix. Better yet, it’s fairly inexpensive to purchase the part. Good luck with your repair!

Thanks,
Karie Fay

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Mike March 11, 2013 at 12:54 pm

Got an overhead garage door opener. It will only open and close if you control it from the motor. The wall switch , which is hardwired and has power, and the two remotes and outside battery wall unit will not activate it. I have reprogrammed it according to the manuel but nothings works. I replaced the sensors,it still didn’t work. Any ideas. could this be a logic board?

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Ron B April 4, 2013 at 2:04 pm

I have a 10-yr old Craftsman that just started having the same problem. I think it probably is in the logic board. I checked the Sears web site and a new board costs about $96. For about twice that, I can get a new unit. That’s what I’m thinking of doing.

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Karie Fay April 18, 2013 at 11:13 pm

Mike,

I do believe it is the logic board — or the receiver on the board, to be more specific. These can go out with age. As Ron indicated, the logic board is fairly expensive. You might be better off merely replacing the whole opener. I would suggest comparing costs before deciding which direction to go.

Hope that helps,
Karie Fay

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mike cardone March 8, 2013 at 12:01 pm

I’ve been in my house 4 years. The remotes for my garage door work intermittently, that is sometimes from up to 30 feet. Other times I have to get out of the car and put the remotes right on the door. Sometimes they only work within the garage itself. This happens frequently. I called Chamberlin and they mentioned possible interference. They recommended either a longer antenna or replace the logic board with a higher freqency. The frequency on my board is 315mhz. They suggested going to 433 mhz. Is this something that I should consider doing.
?

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Karie Fay April 18, 2013 at 11:11 pm

Hi Mike,

Sorry for the delay. I know how frustrating problems like that can be. I would suggest following their advice. Sometimes it can be a bad receiver on the circuit board. However, the 315 mhz openers are notorious for having problems with interference. Even just an alarm clock radio can interfere with the garage door opener! Blame it on the FCC — your opener must accept interference from certain other products.

You could try turning each circuit breaker in your house off, one by one, and see which — if any — stops the interference. That will tell you where the offending item is, and you just have to try things in that area one by one until you detect the culprit. Of course, if it’s something in a nearby house you’re still out of luck.

Long story short, change your logic board to a higher frequency or buy a new GDO with a higher frequency, depending on the repair costs vs. new GDO cost.

Hope that helps,
Karie Fay

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John Scholz February 26, 2013 at 10:23 pm

Thank you for the assistance. The plastic part of the switch near the opener broke off so I taped a wooden dowl to the wire that the opener hits and causes the opener to stop.

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Karie Fay March 25, 2013 at 10:54 pm

Hi John,

Are you saying you bypassed the limit switch on the garage door opener’s trolley? The limit switch wasn’t stopping the door, because the plastic toggle switch attached to it broke — am I correct? If so, what you did is an excellent temporary solution. However, you should be able to get a replacement part as well for a small cost. As long as it works, however, don’t sweat it. Very clever solution!

Take care!
Karie Fay

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jim February 19, 2013 at 9:43 am

We recently just replaced our garage door because my son hit it. The company didn’t replace anything other than the door itself even though we were under the impression that there might be other things damaged. Since it has been replaced the company has returned twice to adjust something because the door stopped closing all the way. It starts just a few inches and then increases to almost 4-5 inches off the ground it won’t close. They also replaced the seal saying that it may be warped from the cold weather. Anyway, it will not close again and is about 5 inches from the ground. They said they would look into it two weeks ago but haven’t come out or returned our call. Can anyone help me figure out what is wrong? Thanks!
P.S. It is an Overhead Door–not a cheap one either!

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Karie Fay March 25, 2013 at 10:37 pm

Hi Jim,

Hitting your garage door won’t hurt the opener itself. It can damage the door — which it sounds like it did — and it can cause the track assembly to be out of alignment and the door to stick as a result. You can easily eliminate that possibility by disconnecting your garage door opener from the door (usually a rope you pull) and opening then closing the door yourself to see if it works smoothly. You should also be able to close it half way and let go with the door staying in place.

As for the company involved…. I bet they were adjusting your force settings or your limit settings. Both are easy to adjust yourself and you have nothing to lose if you move one and it isn’t necessary — it won’t hurt it. Just review the article above, in particular the settings adjustments.

I would think the company would know if the seal is bad — not just think it “may” be as you said. It’s also not good business to not answer your call. Try troubleshooting this yourself and consulting another company if you need hands-on help.

Good luck!
Karie Fay

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Nancy February 18, 2013 at 3:21 pm

My remote opens the door but will not close it. What is wrong?

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Karie Fay March 3, 2013 at 12:21 am

Hi Nancy,

I would first look at my safety sensors (the most common cause of a door not closing), then I would try unplugging the opener and leave it unplugged a while. If you’re lucky, it will reset the system and things will work fine after you plug it in again.

When you check the sensors, they should show green. Look for broken wires, moisture inside the sensor, misalignment, or anything suspect looking. The sensors are fairly cheap, so that’s the best case scenario for repairs.

If that fails to solve your problem, I would suspect the logic board. The sensors send signals to the logic board letting it know to allow the opener to close. If it’s faulty, it will not allow the door to close.

Hope this helps!
Karie Fay

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Suemelnyk February 13, 2013 at 12:12 pm

Hi Karie Fay
Just happened to push the remote by mistake while I was in the garage. The light did not go off. I was always under the impression that the light went off when the door was closed. Do you have any info on this? Can’t find the brochure on the opener.
Thanks
Sue

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Karie Fay March 3, 2013 at 12:11 am

Hi Sue!

Since different openers have different options, some of these possibilities may not apply to your garage door opener.

Check to see if your wall unit has a Light switch. If it is turned on, the light won’t go off. Another possibility is, with a newer GDO, it may contain a motion sensor. If so, the slightest movement will keep the light on for several minutes. Make sure neither of these possibilities is happening before going farther.

For further troubleshooting, I would:

Disconnect the power to the opener, then disconnect the wires entering the wall control unit.
Next, reconnect the power (not the wall unit). The light should come on.
If the light goes off as it is supposed to a few minutes later, you have a problem in your wall unit wiring.
If the light stays on, it’s probably the unit’s logic board.
.
Sometimes a bad ground at the wall unit can cause your problem — something as simple as a loose wire. Check all the wires and terminals to narrow down a possible cause. If it turns out to be the wall unit, you may need to replace it.

On the other hand, a faulty logic board can be a little expensive to repair. At that point, decide if you want to invest the money in a new opener, into repairing the old, or simply unscrewing your light bulb and parking in the dark. If you have any outlets in the garage, maybe you could plug in a nightlight instead.

Hope this helps,
Karie Fay

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scott February 13, 2013 at 11:21 am

I installed a new garage door opener and it works fine. My problem is from the remotes in the cars don’t seam to activated the garage opener unless your right infront of the door. My old unit you could hit the button as you were pulling up and the door went up. Just looking for sugestions ?

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Karie Fay March 2, 2013 at 11:45 pm

Hi Scott,

Your opener should work within two or three car-lengths of the garage door. Are they brand new batteries in your remotes? And you say this happens with both car remotes? Have you tried using the remote while you stand in your driveway?

That’s the first thing I would try. Use it outside of the car and see what results you get. Sometimes the engine block interferes, if the opener is too low, or the top of the windshield, if it’s too high. It’s worth a try.

Next I would look at the opener’s antenna. Make sure it’s hanging straight down and extended completely. Another long shot, but if it works, great.

It’s also possible that something is interfering with the signal your opener emits. Many electrical appliances and items can interfere — televisions, wireless routers, sprinkler systems, alarm systems and more. I would try turning off one breaker at a time in your wiring. When you turn off the garage breaker, run your opener on an extension cord plugged into another outlet in the house. If, at some point, you turn off a breaker and the opener suddenly works from farther away, you know that an item plugged into the room that runs off that breaker is the culprit. (You still have several items in that room, however, so you have only narrowed it down.)

It can also be blocked by metal and other non-electrical items. Sometimes it’s a faulty logic board — but I don’t think that applies to you with a new opener.

If none of these steps help, I would consider a signal extender, called an antenna extension kit.

Hope that helps!
Karie Fay

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Don February 6, 2013 at 3:44 pm

After buying a new car, I found that I had lost the remote for my old Stanley (model 7200.51, date code 92362) G.D opener & don’t know how to program the remote in the new car. Please help.
Don

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Karie Fay March 2, 2013 at 9:59 pm

Hi Don,

I am not sure I understand your situation. Is the new remote a Stanley, or is it a replacement universal remote? I am also having a hard time finding a Stanley model 7200 – 51. With a little more details, I may be able to help.

Off the top of my head, I can say that in general, Stanley GDOs have a “Learn” button on the overhead unit. When you push that button and the button on your remote, they should synch with each other.

A lot of time you can find owner’s manuals for products from old companies that have since went out of business with a little searching on the web, as well. I wouldn’t pay for it, however.

Hope this helps – let me know if you need further assistance.

Karie Fay

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ann February 4, 2013 at 9:24 pm

I have realigned my sensors, checked for obstructions but the door opens partially and than stops or will start to close automatically. There is also a beep that happens periodically. I have not idea what this is. Can someone help? Any suggstions would be greatly appreciated

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Karie Fay March 2, 2013 at 2:17 pm

Hi Ann!

I would immediately rule out a sensor problem. Sensors will interrupt the garage door while closing, not opening as you indicate. Instead, I have a few ideas for you to check.

First I would suggest you close your door and disconnect the opener from the door (there should be a release cord). Then, open the door by hand. How hard is it to move? Open it half way and step back — does it stay where you had it? A broken spring or bad torsion bearing can interfere with proper opening. Also check the track and rollers. If anything is binding, the motor will become stressed and tends to reverse directions.

If the door checks out, next try to gradually increase the force settings. Is it cold where you are? In cooler weather your GDO tends to need more up force to work correctly. Turn the force up slightly, retest, and continue until the door opens properly.

If neither step works, it could be your GDO’s circuit board. The part should cost less than a hundred dollars — but you may want to simply replace the opener instead. Hopefully it’s simply the force, however.

As for the beeping — that’s a little perplexing. The only thing I can think of is it’s signaling to you that it’s on battery power, or the battery power is low. Try checking that out while you troubleshoot your system.

Hope this helps!
Karie

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Mary February 3, 2013 at 5:48 pm

My garage door openers that work with my car are just fine, but the garage door opener on the wall is not working at all. Can you give me any suggestions on what to do?
Thank you!

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MIKE BROWN February 7, 2013 at 5:16 pm

MINE DOES THIS TOO.

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Karie Fay February 19, 2013 at 2:03 pm

Hi Mary,

Did it stop working suddenly, or was it dying a slow death for a length of time? Generally, the more information you have, the easier it is to troubleshoot any appliance. Even something as simple as whether a problem is instant or took some time to develop can helps pinpoint the cause in many cases.

We can rule out your garage door opener as the cause since it opens and closes with your car remotes. If the opener itself was bad, I would expect those remotes not to work as well. So the problem is likely in or related to the wall unit itself.

Try some quick fixes first to see if that resolves your problem.

Does the wall unit use batteries, does it plug in, or is it direct-wired to your home? Change the batteries, plug another electrical item into the outlet and see if it works, or check your home’s breaker box to see if it is tripped – halfway off and halfway on. If it is, turn it all the way OFF, then ON again. Hopefully this fixes the problem. If it doesn’t, disconnect the power (turn breaker off, unplug, etc.) and leave it off for an hour or two. In some cases, this will reset the opener and when you turn it back on, it will work.

Is there a chance you did anything that might have pulled, bumped or otherwise messed with the wall unit or the wiring behind it? With both the wall unit and the opener itself disconnected from power, check the wiring behind the wall unit – sometimes you will see a wire loose or visibly damaged. Check the same wire where it enters your opener and connects to a terminal. You will need to dismount the wall unit on one end, and climb a ladder and remove the opener cover on the other end.

If you have a multimeter and are familiar with using it, try testing the wire running from the wall unit to the opener for continuity. Disconnect the wire from the terminal at the opener, and from the button switch at the wall unit. When the multimeter is joined to either end of the wire, it should show continuity or beep. If it doesn’t, you’ve found your problem. Replace the wire with new wire, return everything to normal, and you should be good to go.

Sometimes the wall unit has other, deeper problems. If nothing else works, I would suggest just replacing the wall control unit. Currently, I see new wall controls on auction sites for under $50. They are pretty simple to install.

Hope that helps!
Karie Fay

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John February 3, 2013 at 11:31 am

Capacitor replaced after it blew. Now when activate unit run in one direction for 3 seconds and the reverses.

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Karie Fay February 6, 2013 at 10:26 pm

Hi John,

Who actually changed your capacitor? Do you know what made the capacitor blow? I am curious if you perhaps overheated the motor by running it too many times in a row, or if there was a lightning strike, or is this simply an old opener?

My advice is to look closely at the logic board – kind of the “brain” of a garage door opener – and at the RPM sensor system as well.

Logic boards are very vulnerable to lightning and electrical surges. While the logic board is simple to remove (you simply unplug the wiring harness and unclip the board before pulling it out – AFTER unplugging the opener that is!) it’s difficult to tell if it’s bad simply by looking at it. It may or may not have scorch marks or signs of damage. Also, keep in mind that a logic board is an expensive part, so you may find it better to get a new GDO than to repair it.

It may also be in the RPM sensor system. The sensor, a small circuit board about an inch in size, detects and times movement for the safety reverse system. It works with an interrupter cup assembly, which spins and is “read” by the RPM. The interrupter cup sits on the motor shaft and needs to fit securely. Problems with the cup or RPM circuit board can also cause your symptoms. Even just dirt on the circuit board can cause it to malfunction!

If you haven’t already, try unplugging your opener and leave it disconnected for a while before trying it again. Sometimes you will get lucky and it will reset the system. If that fails to solve your problem, then visually inspect the opener – again unplugging it before removing the cover, this can’t be stressed enough – and calling a professional or replacing the unit if all else fails.

Hope this helps!
Karie Fay

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Rafael January 30, 2013 at 1:52 pm

Recently the garage door failed to open, and it was opened by hand, since then the door opens without problems but won’t close, I check the sensors but nothing. any suggestions?

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Karie Fay February 5, 2013 at 10:23 pm

Hi Rafael,

When you say you opened it by hand, I assume you pulled the rope to put the door in manual? And when you say you checked the sensors but nothing, did you find nothing wrong or are the sensors doing nothing -?

The reason I ask is that whenever a door will open but will not close, I automatically suspect the sensor system. Your opener is designed to not allow the door to close if it thinks anything is in the path of the door — a feature that has saved lives and frustrated owners ever since!

First try unplugging your opener for a few hours to see if you can reset the system. It’s a long shot — but it’s worth a try.

Next I would check the sensors. Are both showing green? If not, look at the wiring leading to it. Try opening the sensor and looking for moisture inside that may interfere with the beam. If they are green, I would suspect one of two things — either the sensors are bad and not sending to the opener unit properly, or the unit’s logic board is bad.

The sensors are fairly inexpensive, so I would try that before worrying about the logic board.

Hope that helps!
Karie Fay

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M.T. BROWN January 29, 2013 at 1:50 pm

Touch activation switch and door attempts to move however, nothing happens…

Red/Green lights operational without obstructions however, noticed draw cables on each track are not connected to wheel pulleys. Is this the root of my problem? If so, what would case the cables to become disengaged in the first place? There were no prior indications of stress, nor a problem with the cables.

Thanks for your reply,
M.T. Brown (USAF/Retired)

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Karie Fay February 5, 2013 at 10:01 pm

Hi,

I think you nailed it. If those cables are not attached, your door will not open. The cables need to be reattached over the pulleys. Since the pulleys are attached to springs, be very careful if you attempt this yourself. I would suggest a professional since a mistake, when working with springs, can be dangerous.

Have you looked at the cables? They can wear out. However, if your springs are wearing out it can result in less tension on the cables, which allows them to slip off during door travel. The pulleys may be slightly loose as well. I would look at the entire pulley/cable/spring system to discover the cause. As I think you already realized, if an underlying problem caused the cables to slip, it could happen again.

Hope that helps!
Karie Fay

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Ramsin Zobalan January 28, 2013 at 12:40 pm

When I try to open the garage door it get stuck 10-12 inches high for three or four times before it opens all the way. Why is that. Thank you.

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Karie Fay February 5, 2013 at 1:30 am

Hi Ramsin,

The fact that it struggles opening but you don’t mention any problems closing leads me to suspect it is one of two things.

Garage doors are heavy. Your opener has a much easier time closing the door — pushing it — than lifting it open. Two things help the lifting — the garage door springs and the “UP” force on your opener.

Test your springs by unhooking the door from the opener to lift it manually. If it is difficult to open your door, then the torsion springs need adjustment. This is NOT a DIY repair — the springs are under so much tension that one slip could result in serious injury or death. Consult a professional to adjust them instead.

The other possibility is you need to increase the UP force. This is something you can do yourself. Turn the knob/screw a little at a time and try opening your door. Once it opens smoothly, your problem is solved.

Hope this helps!
Karie Fay

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John January 27, 2013 at 6:10 pm

I have a similar problem that Dan is asking about. My remotes will open my door and so will my wall unit,however the remotes will not close the door and only holding the wall button down will close it. I have checked the sensors, they are not blocked the are lines up and when the door is down both show green light. Do I need to replace the sensors/eyes?

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Michael Hardie February 4, 2013 at 7:47 am

I had this same problem. The sensors were out of alignment.

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Karie Fay February 5, 2013 at 12:45 am

Hi John,

I think the problem is in your sensor system, but it’s hard for me to determine exactly where. Your sensors may be out of alignment, for instance, or a wire may be loose.

Are both lights green BEFORE you close the door or only after? That is a significant clue to the problem.

What is happening is you are bypassing the sensor when you press and hold your wall unit switch to close the door. And the sensor doesn’t affect opening, so your controls will work there.

Try troubleshooting the sensors. If all else fails, replacement is an option.

Hope this helps!
Karie Fay

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Dennis January 16, 2013 at 5:40 am

My opener will not respond to any of my 2 remotes or my home link system in my car. I’ve change the batteries and check the safety sensors. It functions normally with the wall switch. What do I try next?

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Karie Fay February 5, 2013 at 1:09 am

Hi Dennis!

When your wall unit works but the remotes don’t, then you need to look first to see if you have a “LOCK” button on the wall unit. If it is accidentally locked, your remotes won’t work. Normally you can press and hold the button for about three seconds to unlock it.

Try resetting your system too. Unplug the opener and remove the batteries from the remotes. Leave the system off 3 or 4 hours, then restore power. It’s worth a try.

Another thing I would try is to reprogram the codes. Each opener is different, but typically there’s a “Learn” button on the wall unit (sometimes on the opener instead). Erase each remote and reprogram to see if this solves your problem.

A real possibility is the logic board inside the opener unit is bad. The part is rather pricey and you probably need a professional to replace it if it is faulty. Try everything else first before having the technician troubleshoot the problem.

Hope that helps!
Karie Fay

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Dave January 15, 2013 at 11:37 am

Garage door only goes up about six inches at a time in the winter when really cold. Goes down fine. Takes forever to finally go up all the way. When it warms up a bit the door works fine.

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Karie Fay February 3, 2013 at 11:48 pm

Hi Dave,

Your garage door wants to move to warmer climates!!!

Seriously, though, it sounds like the problem isn’t mechanical per se — if you had a bad part, you would expect it to occur year round and from what you say, it sounds like this has happened before and goes away when it gets warm.

I am thinking you need to adjust your UP force settings.

In the winter things fit differently than in warmer weather. If you have a wooden garage door, it may even absorb water from snow and ice. This may make the opener think the door is heavier than it is and cause excessive strain to the opener motor.

Also, if your track has been greased, this may get thicker and harder in extremely cold weather (similar to the oil in a car, it gets thinner in heat and thicker in cold). This may compound the problem.

I suggest you turn your UP force slightly — you don’t want too much force — and wipe excess grease from the track. Watch how it works after this, and increase the force a little more as necessary. When the weather gets warm, however, you will need to turn it down. Luckily this only takes a few minutes.

Hope this helps!
Karie Fay

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joel January 10, 2013 at 4:07 pm

ok, 1 year old doors with 3 year old openers. one side a genie the other chamb. both openers work without much strain. the genie though towards the end other the last roller clearing before the curve pops as if the opener is pulling a little to hard. never had this problem till 2 days ago. tracks are brand new and installed correctly. no warn rollers or gunk in the track. could the opener be pulling to hard on the final up swing. going down is fine. no popping. just the last 2 seconds of the door being completly opened. before i mess with the adj. speed setting thought i would ask proffesional help first!

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Karie Fay January 20, 2013 at 2:10 am

Hi Joel,

What exactly is popping? The door popping over the roller, or a popping noise from the roller? Have you visually inspected your rollers? Typically, a popping sound does mean a problem with your rollers. Even simply lubricating them can help. You said the doors are a year old, the openers three, and the track brand new, and this is happening in one door, correct?

First thing I would suggest is narrowing down whether it’s the opener’s fault or if the problem does somehow lay in your door or track system.

If you disconnect your garage door from the opener, you can operate each independently. Try the door first. It should open smoothly, and if it doesn’t, you know there is indeed a problem in the door or track system. You can also try operating the garage door opener, without the door attached, to see if you hear the same noise or experience the same problem. This should tell you much more about the situation.

To test your force settings, have the garage door opener attached to the door again and send it back up. Grab on to the bottom of the garage door when it’s about halfway up. The door should be hard to hold but not impossible.

Frankly, if you suspect the force settings, it doesn’t hurt anything to try adjusting it. You may be right — but the garage door openers are generally set to minimum force when you get them. Most people have a problem with too little force, not too much.

Some other possible problems in your situation could be your torsion springs are locking together at the top of the door’s movement. In that case, spring replacement is the answer (and NOT a DIY job!). If the door is damaged along the hinges or any slight dent or misalignment may cause the door itself to pop as well. Roller problems are infamous, as mentioned. Force is a possibility as well. I think a little troubleshooting should pinpoint it.

Hope that helps!
Karie Fay

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Dan December 30, 2012 at 4:36 pm

My garage door opens fine with either the wall switch or both remotes, however, when I try to close the door by just pushing the buttons on the remotes or the wall button, the door starts down then raises again. The only way I can get the door to close is by holding the wall button depressed. Any ideas???

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Karie Fay February 4, 2013 at 12:28 am

Hi Dan,

That is odd. Have you checked your sensors? Older openers didn’t have them, but if your system is fairly new it does. I know that when you hold the wall button down to get the garage door to close, you are overriding the sensor system. The fact that you mentioned this on the close alone makes me think that is likely the problem.

Try checking your sensors, realigning them, cleaning them — the steps I cover in the article. You can also try checking the “Lock” feature, if your opener has it, but I am betting it’s in the sensor system.

Hope that helps!
Karie Fay

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Marty December 28, 2012 at 11:08 am

My opener will not respond to any of my 3 remotes. Built into car, hand held, or key code. It functions normally with the wall switch. It started failing intermittently on the remotes and finally failed completely.

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Karie Fay February 4, 2013 at 12:23 am

Hi Marty,

Wow – that’s a tough one. There’s a few things I would suggest you try.

Look for a “Learn” button on either the wall unit or on the opener itself. Try erasing your remotes, one at a time, and using Learn to reprogram them. The exact procedure will vary according to your make and model.

Is there a “LOCK” feature for your opener? Some manufacturer’s include this to prevent someone from getting your remote and thus into your house. If the Lock is on, it will not allow your remotes to work — only your house wall unit. Most units will Unlock if you hold the Lock button for three seconds.

The logic board inside the opener may be bad. You likely need a service technician if it is, and you may decide that for the money you would rather just replace the opener system.

Occasionally, more than one remote can go bad at the same time. Then again, sometimes disconnecting your unit for several hours and then plugging it in again can reset the system. It is worth a try.

I hope that one of these methods work. Start with the easiest and proceed to the most difficult. Good luck!

Karie Fay

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ROBIN December 25, 2012 at 2:11 pm

our G door when opening will not go up all the way. It appears that the track is not long enough and it opens all the way to the motor and can not go any further because of the motor. my husband thinks the track is not long enough, can this be the cause and if so can we get one more pieces of tracking? If not what could be the problem? thank you and Merry Xmas…

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Karie Fay January 19, 2013 at 12:57 am

Hi Robin,

From what you’re describing, I am betting you have a problem with your garage door opener’s up limit. Some openers, especially older units, lack travel limit adjustment screws such as I described in this article. Instead, small clips attach to the track — one for the opening limit and another for the closing limit. Try looking at the track as you open and close it to verify. You should see the problem instantly. In some cases, you may be able to reposition the clip so the limit range adjusts. Alternatively, purchase a replacement clip and attach it according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Hope this helps!
Karie Fay

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JM @ Door Boy November 16, 2012 at 10:58 am

Very helpful and informative tips, Karie. Knowing the basics of a garage door will give you a better understanding of how it operates and functions. Let’s always keep in mind however to also educate our children about how dangerous this equipment can be – that the remote is not a toy.

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