Troubleshooting an Electric Range: Common Problems & Solutions

by on March 10, 2013Karie Fay

The Basics: How an Electric Range Works

In troubleshooting and repair, it always helps to understand how something works. It doesn’t even have to be extensive, just a general idea of the basic operation. This can help you narrow possibilities, figure out things beyond any troubleshooting manual, and give you a little more confidence in your abilities.

When it comes to troubleshooting your electric range, some common problems have easy DIY fixesUnlike a gas range, an electric range will never leak fuel or create carbon monoxide from burning fuel. Instead, an electric range uses an electrical supply – your home current, 220 volts – and converts it to heat. The greater the electrical flow generated, the more heat that results. Turning the knobs controlling your burners or oven works similar to a light dimmer switch, increasing or decreasing the flow of electrical current and thus the temperature of the element.

Starting with the stovetop, the control knob you turn to set the burner temperature is connected to a temperature control immediately inside the stove control panel, on the other side of the knob. Often this control is called an infinite switch. It regulates the electrical flow to the heating element.

  • The oldest electric ranges use a conventional coil heating element, known as a “resistive coil.” This is nothing more than an electrical wire encased in an insulating sheath. (This sheath is the reason you cannot electrocute yourself by touching the burner or the pan on top of it). You know this one by the appearance – flat black coils over rounded burner drip bowls that catch your drips and spills.
  • Almost as old is the glass-ceramic cooktop style. Here, the element produces heat that both conducts and radiates through the glass top to the cookware above. Sometimes these feature thermostats that control the elements, turning them off and on to provide a steady temperature rather than ever-increasing heat like conventional burners. Smooth-top stoves like these are easily recognizable – no burner juts up, and often the “burner” looks like it’s painted on.
  • Newer cooktop styles, such as the induction, halogen, or solid-disk cooktops (popularly referred to as “Euro-burners”) combine the same basic styles with new technology to produce more even heating, greater efficiency, increased ease of use and sleek styling. In some cases the burner element itself is easily changeable, but the process is slightly different from other cooktop styles. In addition, some feature thermal limiters or thermostats that regulate the burner system. Refer to your owner’s manual or a qualified technician for targeted information.

Moving to the oven, electric ranges typically feature two heating elements – one for baking, one for broiling. Both are controlled with an oven selector switch as well as a temperature control. A thermostat monitors and regulates oven temperatures, opening the circuit to break the flow of heat (electricity) and closing it when the temperature drops by more than 20 degrees. This thermostat is directly behind the oven temperature-setting knob with a thin copper tube that runs to the oven for temperature sensing.

Some ovens have a clock, a timer, or controls for features such as self-cleaning or an interior light. While older clocks used to be manually controlled, many are now electronic and may replace the conventional thermostat system. Often referred to as electronic range controls or electronic oven controls, these need complete replacement when they fail.

Self-cleaning ovens use a timer to operate the cleaning, during which the oven heats to about 700 degrees. A latch engages during the process, preventing the door from opening until the cycle is done and the temperatures are at a safe level again.

A convection oven includes a fan to help circulate the heat. Sometimes the fan contains a heating element. Either way, the result is more efficient, even cooking.

Common Stovetop Problems: Troubleshooting by Symptom

Once you know the basics of how your electric range works, you may be able to pinpoint the problem without a troubleshooting guide. If you’re still uncertain, however, try narrowing down the potential causes by locating the symptom. Most oven or stovetop failures trace back to one of a few potential problems. Always start with the most simple or probable cause and progress toward more complex or less common causes. If the situation still leaves you perplexed or you do not feel up to fixing the problem you identify, consult a qualified service professional.

Nothing Works, or the Stovetop Works Inconsistently:

  • Has the home breaker flipped or the fuse blown? Sometimes an electrical surge will interfere with the power supply, causing breakers and fuses to react to protect your appliances. Simply check your breaker or fuse box and replace or flip as necessary.
  • Is the range’s power cord plugged in securely? Grasp it by the plug and wiggle slightly to determine a good connection. If your range is plugged into an extension cord, disconnect it and plug it into the wall directly! A range consumes too much electricity to run off any extension cord.
  • Look over the power cord for signs of damage such as missing rubber coating with wires showing through, sharp crimps or evidence it is getting pinched while plugged in. Pull out the oven slightly if its position is causing the problem. Electrical tape is good for covering bare wires and preventing them from touching anything, but a range is too powerful to take chances. Have a technician replace the cord as necessary.
  • If previous steps fail to fix the problem, it’s time to dig a little deeper. First unplug the appliance, then remove the back panel to access the area where the power cord enters the range. Inside, the cord wires connect to a terminal block. Look for loose, damaged or burned-looking wires. If wires are merely loose, wrap them around the screw terminal and secure by tightening. If you witness evidence of a little corrosion, like you sometimes see on car battery terminals, clean the terminal gently with a wire brush and reconnect the wires. Damaged wiring requires immediate attention from a professional.
  • Does your range have an internal fuse or circuit breaker system? Typically situated under the top of the range, directly around the elements or on the sides of the unit, cooktop fuses and circuits can also blow or trip. So can the fuses for the oven – located at the rear of the compartment – and fuses controlling the self-cleaning function, timer, clock or other features, if so designed. To replace any fuse, simply unscrew it, turning it counterclockwise, and replace with the exact same type and size (electrical rating) of fuse. For circuit breakers, push the “reset” button or as indicated.
  • Sometimes either the cord or even the electrical outlet is bad even though you can’t see it. In that case, a multimeter will quickly and easily show if the outlet is receiving current and if the power cord is carrying it. Consult a professional for further information.

One Burner Fails to Produce Heat:

Most of the time, the cause can be traced to a defective element, a loose connection or a defective switch. Try a few things to pinpoint it – and possibly fix it in the process.

  • First, wiggle the burner element slightly. Turn off the power or unplug the stove to prevent electrical shock if you must touch the interior portion of the stove to remove it. Note if the element feels abnormal or loosely connected; sometimes comparing it with another one will help you judge any differences. Try turning the burner on again to see if this fixed the problem.
  • Narrow down the possibilities by pulling the burner element free from the stove and switching it out with another element of the same size. If the replacement works, check the one that wasn’t working where it is now plugged in. If it doesn’t work, you can be sure the element is faulty. Simply purchase a new one and pop it in place to solve your problems.
  • Examine the element for warping, bubbles or any visible sign of damage. Look for signs of corrosion on the ends that plug into the burner (called terminals) as well as on the receptacle block into which it plugs. Clean, as necessary, with steel wool or a stiff-bristled brush to remove buildup that may interfere with proper operation. If you notice what looks like burned or scorched areas on the prongs, replace the terminal block that the element plugs into, as it is likely faulty. Consult a repair technician for further assistance.

My Stovetop Burners Work, But the Indicator Light Doesn’t Glow:

Every electric stove features a little indicator light that glows when the burner is in operation. If the burner is on but the light fails to glow, one of two things is the likely problem.

  • Using a multimeter, connect the probes to the final burner control switch terminal, the one labeled P, along with the L1 terminal, while the burner is on. It should register continuity. Any other result means that portion of the control switch is faulty.
  • If you obtain continuity but the light still isn’t operating, try replacing the light bulb, located in the control panel behind the light position.

My Stovetop Burner Seems to Have One Temperature Only:

If the burner works but doesn’t get hotter or cooler, the infinite switch is likely faulty. Replace as necessary. Consult a repair professional for further information.

Common Electric Oven Issues: Troubleshooting by Symptom

Your oven may not work even though the stovetop burners do. Again, the best way to narrow down the possible causes – and find a solution – is to start with the simplest and most common causes. If, at any time, you grow uncertain or need assistance, contact a service professional for specialized assistance applicable to your particular electric oven.

My Oven Doesn’t Work, but the Stovetop Does:

  • Check the oven control knobs. Some have separate cycle and temperature knobs, others combine all functions on one knob. Either way, are they set properly? Have you recently removed the knob, perhaps to clean the oven? If the knob was pulled off, it may not be aligned properly. Try pulling the knob off again and repositioning it for a quick, easy fix.
  • Does your broiler element work? Since the broil element, at the top of the oven, is separate from the bake element at the bottom of the oven, if one works and the other doesn’t, you know the problem is either in the element or the receptacle block into which it plugs. Whenever a burner, oven or broiler fails to work, most often the fault is in the element, so start by wiggling the element to see if it is simply loose.
  • Pull the element free and inspect it for signs of damage – extremely worn areas, bubbling, cracking, signs of burning or corrosion on the terminals. Remove dirt and corrosion with a stiff-bristled brush or sandpaper. Replace faulty elements; they aren’t very expensive (less than a service call!).
  • Test your oven elements – either the bake or broil element – with a multimeter. Clip the probes to the element terminals and test for continuity. The reading should be between 15 and 30 ohms. Higher readings mean the element is faulty and needs replacement. Alternatively, take the element to a repair service and ask them to test it for you.
  • If neither broil nor bake works and previous steps fail to identify the problem, check your clock settings. On analog clocks, the setting should be manual. Auto is for timed cooking. This fix may not be relevant for everyone. Newer ERC and EOC clocks, as discussed above, typically integrate the clock with the thermostat. When the clock stops working, it affects the oven and requires replacement.
  • Does your range feature built-in fuses? Locate the fuse positions and check if the fuses for the oven are faulty. Replace with 30 amp fuses. Your owner’s manual should explain where they are located and how to access them. Contact a service technician for further information.

The Oven Doesn’t Get Hot Enough:

Perhaps the oven works – it just doesn’t work right, producing little heat. The problem is likely not the element, but another connected part.

  • First check the oven door. The gasket surrounding the door must seal in the heat to maintain temperature. If you notice rips, tears or missing portions, this may explain the problem.
  • Test the thermostat. Place an oven thermometer inside the oven and verify the temperature difference. Often, you can adjust an oven thermostat simply by turning a screw located on the thermostat’s valve stem. On newer digital display oven models, where the thermostat is part of the clock system, you can’t do this. You must replace the sensor instead. Call a service technician for professional assistance.
  • Use a multimeter to test the bake or broil receptacle, similar to testing the burner receptacle. Bad voltage can cause numerous problems. Testing L1 and L2 together should result in 240 volts. From L1 to neutral, and L2 to neutral, should register 120 volts instead.

The Oven Door Refuses to Open:

It’s possible for bent latches or similar physical damage to cause the door to latch and refuse to open again. There’s no easy fix. The oven must be disassembled to reach the latch and force it open again. Have a service technician perform the work for you.

The Oven Door Refuses to Close:

If your door refuses to close properly, the fix is likely simple. Look at the gasket surrounding the door and ensure it is clean and in good repair. Gaskets are replaceable. Also check the springs and armature, adjusting as necessary until the door closes properly. Finally, consider replacing the latch if all else fails.

The Oven Light Isn’t Working:

Replacing the light bulb is very easy. Use the same size and type each time.

The Oven Indicator Light Isn’t Working:

The oven also has an indicator light in the control panel, similar to the burner indicator lights. Access the inside of the panel and replace the light as necessary.

The Convection Feature Fails to Work:

The convection oven will not work without a fan. After testing the selector switch, take a closer look at the fan. Make sure it isn’t plugged or clogged. Have a service technician test the part if the solution isn’t obvious.

The Self-Cleaning Feature Fails to Work:

If the knobs are operating properly, check the oven door latch to ensure it engages completely. In order to enter the cleaning cycle, the oven must “sense” the latch. If the latch has no electrical current, the oven will not detect it and will fail to clean. Test for continuity on the latch. Consult a repair professional for further information and assistance.

The Electric Range or the Food Cooked is Lopsided:

You may not even notice the range isn’t level until you bake a cake, or a casserole overflows on one side, creating a mess inside your oven. Luckily, this is generally an easy fix.

  • Is the range itself uneven? A simple way to check is to put a level inside the oven on one of the racks. Failing that, use a pan of water and eyeball the level to see if it looks even. Most ranges have leveling legs that may be adjusted to obtain level. Alternatively, use a small item such as a thin strip of wood, positioned under the stove legs.
  • Is the problem confined to the burners? If the element isn’t seated properly, the result will be a slightly lopsided pan. Simply adjust the element to correct.
  • Check the condition of the kitchen floor. If the floor is sagging or uneven, the stove will be as well. Consult a professional carpenter for a permanent solution. In the meantime, adjust the stove to obtain level.

{ 176 comments… read them below or add one }

Stuart McGowan September 16, 2014 at 2:23 am

I just recently changed my electric oven element and now the main oven comes on when I’m only using the top part of the oven as the main oven glass shattered into a million pieces after I installed the new element. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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John Lam September 15, 2014 at 5:34 pm

For an old mechanical range without any electronic parts, is it true that once the control knob of the stove-top heating element is turned on, the same power (i.e. the power rating of that element, usually 500W or 1,000W) will consume irrelevant of the setting of the control knob (high-medium-low, or continuous scale setting). Please answer with explanation, not just a plain yes or no.

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colette coonan September 15, 2014 at 2:46 pm

hi the fan on my 9 hear old oven was glowing red while baking last night it burnt everything , would it be the fan or the thermostat thanks Colette

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barb September 14, 2014 at 7:11 pm

just walked past my Frigidaire cooktop and on the display was an 5d oven does not seem to go on but the burners do haven’t cooked in a week what is it

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Sharleen west September 7, 2014 at 7:48 pm

The digital display shows “hold” how can I remove this and get a time display back.

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Cathy September 3, 2014 at 6:57 am

Hi,
I seem to be having the same problem as Lou Ann, Marilyn and KB. I have a GE range and the BURNER ON light won’t off. None of the elements are on. We had a small power surge last night during a storm after which I checked the breaker and that seemed fine. Hope you can help. Thanks

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Alan Waters September 1, 2014 at 3:17 pm

I have a Kenmore Stove/microwave combo. The baking element works but glows really red in back left curve. Do I replace the element?

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John Havener August 28, 2014 at 9:09 am

14 year old Kenmore electric range. Baking and broiling elements function well. Temperature of oven matches setting. Muffins burn on bottom before upper part is done. Should both top & bottom element supply heat during bake cycle? Could the vent being plugged cause the change? Model number is 79095747991

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andre matthew August 25, 2014 at 12:05 pm

i have a electric oven and it makes a lot of problems for me regarding its heating.. tristaterepairs

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aj August 21, 2014 at 6:53 am

Have a fridgedaire electric self cleaning oven. Clock does not show accurate time and won’t let me reset. Also when hit backe and try to set temperature it shows jibberish number. When you hit vari-broile then arrow up it shows HHH instead of HI. Also has () after incorrect time on screen.

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Wayne August 14, 2014 at 3:27 pm

My maytag oven is about 8 or 10 years old and the oven takes forever to heat up . The bottom element you can’t see unless you take off the cover . When heating does the top element work with the bottom element to get to the right tempature
I can set it for 350 degs. and take a shower before it reaches the correct temp.

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ED Moore August 24, 2014 at 11:34 am

I am having same problem I changed element on bottom. Oven is still not working. Any Suggestions.

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paul w August 14, 2014 at 11:56 am

our GE electric stove has a light switch for the oven on the top panel. When pushed down to turn on the oven light, it sparks and smells. the light works but the button won’t stay in the “on Position” and the spark and smell are worrisome.

Any suggestions or ideas on:
1) is this dangerous
2) how to repair

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Carol August 10, 2014 at 10:05 pm

would like to know how to get the control panel light out to replace it. I can feel the little flourescent like bulb but don’t know how to get it out. It is a kenmore stove.
Thanking you in advance

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Lynnette August 7, 2014 at 9:47 pm

I have a very strange problem, I live in an older manufactured home, the power at the front of the house keeps going out (acts like a blown breaker) but if I turn the front right burner knob on then back off the power comes back on?? completely stumped. I tried unplugging the stove to see if that would keep the power from going out, nope power still went out…plugged the stove back in turned the knob and power came back on? Any ideas on why my front burner seems to be controlling the power in the front part of my house?

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Muskrat September 10, 2014 at 4:46 pm

Either your stove has a deep-seated personality disorder and needs counseling (megalomania), or there is an unhappy spirit of a dead person floating around the property and playing games with you. I would contact http://www.ghostbusters.com.

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Chris Brosnahan July 28, 2014 at 7:26 am

We have an older Frigidaire electric range…the other day, the wife was using the stove top and the element stayed cold while the entire top of the stove got hot…not red hot as an element would do, but uncomfortably hot – to the point where touching it for more that a few seconds became uncomfortable…she described it as trying to hold a hot cup of coffee…any ideas as how to resolve this problem??? I’m old school and prefer ‘fix/repair’, to her ‘throw it out, buy new’ solution’…I’m also a cheap SOB

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Ray Schmitt July 21, 2014 at 9:02 am

I have a GE Mod#JSP26BW AD Sereal#HV264968Q The front control panel stays lit but the oven,clock,boiler,and oven clean will not function. All four top burners will work as normal. What would cause this to mall function, I bought this stove in July of 1999 and has been trouble free until yesterday [7/20/2014] can you help me?
Thank you, Ray Schmitt

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Debbie July 20, 2014 at 8:39 am

our less than a year old whirlpool range blew a element on the bottom of oven we replaced now a f9 shows up can’t figure out why it won’t reset

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irina July 16, 2014 at 2:43 pm

Hi

I have placed a new fuse in the place of burnt fuse of my stove. When I am placing the fuse, the burner is getting started instantly although the controlling knob is off. And, after some time the fuse is getting burnt with a spark. What is the problem?

Thanks in advance

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rafael July 13, 2014 at 4:40 pm

I have a Kenmore electric kitchen range. one burner stop working. I try to fix it, but while doing it, I didn’t unplug the electrical current and provoke a short circuit. Now nothing works!!! can you help me to fix it?

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Tom July 10, 2014 at 6:00 am

I have a belling electric oven 317AN, everything works until i turn the oven knob on which trips the mains switch. please could you advise me on the problem.
Many thanks

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evelyn July 7, 2014 at 9:05 pm

g e stove under counter f2 or f3 comes up with beps help!!!!!!!!!!!!

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evelyn July 7, 2014 at 9:34 pm

or f 4 is it fuses help!!!!!!!!!!

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Jody July 6, 2014 at 5:20 am

My maytag stove it turning on and heating up on its own. The read out doesn’t show that it should be heating. I have un plug it to re set it but it is still doing it

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Alan June 30, 2014 at 6:00 pm

Been in this house for a year. Came with a GE model# J BP65G S3AD (really JBP65GS) and has always worked properly. Today the oven and broil function don’t work – the “preheated indicator” comes on flashing as soon as you turn the knob to use the oven or broiler. Can’t believe that the manual does not have this situation in the trouble shooting section. Can anyone help?
Thanks.

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Eric June 30, 2014 at 2:24 pm

My electric stove is mostly working but one burner isn’t working right. Instead of normal operation, it’d glow cherry-red in only 1 inch portion, outermost section of the coil and the rest never gets warm. The coil were replaced oh about 6 months ago and Sears is refusing to exchange it, they think the coil is fine and the problem is elsewhere

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George June 24, 2014 at 7:43 am

The stove oven and broiler doesn’t work. Top burners work. Then the PF started to flash so I reset the clock and everything worked again for about a week. Then same thing burners worked but not the oven or broiler. This time no PF was flashing. After about a week the PF started to flash. Reset and everything worked. Today clock stopped and only burners work. If it follows the pattern, in a week or so the PF will flash and after resetting clock everything will work again for about a week or so and it will repeat again. Any ideas?
George

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da man June 25, 2014 at 5:24 pm

Sounds like you have a bad connection somewhere. Check at the outlet to see if you have power. You can use a simple 240\120 tester that lights up if there’s current. If you’re good there, take of the panel on the back of range and check connection there. If you have a bad connection there, it’s possible it caused damage to your power block. Replace

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Thomas June 19, 2014 at 5:23 pm

I have a GE Profile range .Model# JB968SH1SS . I ran a self cleaning cycle and at the end the locked light stayed on. I could hear the door lock cycling open and closed. When it unlocks I can open the oven door but the lock just keeps cycling. With the door open the locked light flashes and it starts to beep. I shut off the breaker, once for an hour and then overnight and it still is doing the same thing. I then tried starting a new clean cycle and then hitting the clear/stop button but it still acts the same. I ran a new cycle for 30 mins. and pushed clear/stop but nothing changed. The stovetop will still work but no oven. We purchased this range new and this is only the 2nd time the self-clean cycle has been used.

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da man June 25, 2014 at 5:26 pm

Those locks on ge go bad all the time. More than likely needs replacing.

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Bill June 13, 2014 at 10:31 am

We have a Samsung smooth-top electric range and convection oven that is 3 1/2 yrs old with no previous problem. When broiling, we tried to turn off the oven (at maybe over 400 degrees)… and the lock light came on (the door opened easily), and the oven beeps now for 6 times every 30 seconds. No amount of pulling the plug (overnight), or trying the self-clean turn on then turn off, nor has any re-set button been found — so the beeping continues when the stove is plugged in (we have unplugged it!). Is there a solution we haven’t thought of?

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Bill June 17, 2014 at 11:40 am

Just decided to call the repairman — he ‘tricked’ the computer into thinking the oven door was locked, and the icon went out and the beeping stopped. His comment about Samsung is that it is over built and that the computer is VERY expensive to replace.

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Barry June 8, 2014 at 3:12 pm

Hi,
Just wondering if anyone knows why when I turn the oven on and it’s heating up that one of the top rings gets hot aswell?
Cheers

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FeistyChick June 12, 2014 at 9:22 pm

The electric oven vents heat out a tube under one of the back burners usually. This might be the issue in that it’s simply heating the whole element and ring. GOOD LUCK.

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MYRNA WAKELIN June 6, 2014 at 9:35 am

WE HAVE AN ELECTRIC KENMORE STOVE. THE BOTTOM OVEN ELEMENT BURNED OUT AND WE REPLACED IT. IT IS WORKING FINE, BUT THE OVEN INDICATOR LIGHT STAYS ON AFTER THE OVEN REACHES THE PREHEATED TEMPERATURE. IN FACT, THE OVEN SEEMS TO KEEP GETTING HOTTER AND HOTTER. HOW WOULD WE TEST TO SEE IF THIS IS THE THERMOSTAT, OR DO YOU HAVE OTHER SUGGESTIONS?

THANKS SO MUCH!

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salomon jojola June 6, 2014 at 3:35 am

my ele, stove (ge) IS NOT WORKING THE CLOCK IS WORKING BUT WHEN YOU PUT ON THE OVEN THE PRE HEAT COME ON BUT BLINKING IT NOT HEATING AT ALL THE BURNER ON TOP DON’T WORK ALSO HAVE CHANGED FUSES OUT SIDE AND IT STILL DOESN.T WORK

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Susie June 4, 2014 at 11:20 am

when using my stove top to cook and do not turn on the vent fan my microwave hood starts to make a loud vibrating noise. Turned on just a little helps. Helps to turn it off for a couple of hours but now it will not stop the noise and when turned on again it starts the loud noise. It has four speed and 5 wires going to it.I finally unplugged the wiring harness but no fan!Who can replace the board? could it be the compacitor?

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Dzu Do May 30, 2014 at 7:15 am

I have GE Profile Oven model JT952sf1ss. While replacing oven light, I removed the light housing. As I removed the housing, I shorted the black power wire against the oven frame and it sparked and smoked. The metal tip of black wire to light socket was broken and need to be fixed. My question is can I solder the broken metal back to the wire or I have to get a new light socket with new wires on it?

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David Hall May 19, 2014 at 8:09 am

I have a GE built in stove the is approximately 27 years old, it still works fine but the oven temperature light stays on even though the oven is off, what causes this and is it dangerous? THANK YOU, Davd

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mike sawka May 17, 2014 at 6:29 am

We have a KitchenAid Model KERS807SBL02 all the elements stove top and oven stopped working and will no longer heat up.
The clock, oven fan, timer and continue to work so it is getting electricity.
We checked the breaker it was still on and as per the instructions shut the breaker down for 1 minute but the result was the same none of the heating elements are functioning.
Any help would be appreciated.

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Norman May 24, 2014 at 2:10 pm

Have the same problem. Did you find a solution? Thanks.

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Danyell Lawcio May 13, 2014 at 3:10 pm

I have an electric whirlpool WEF361LVQ. The display and oven wont turn on. The stove top works fine but no lights or response on display xand when I open the door the light doesnt turn on.

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tea May 7, 2014 at 5:38 pm

My hotpoint stove, (I have the older coil burners) will boil water on top when the oven is on.
Why do you think this is happening? I dont think it got this hot when it was new about 3 yrs ago. If I run the oven I always put a pot of water on the stove so nothing else will get put on it.

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Helen Welch April 28, 2014 at 4:30 pm

My electric Whirlpool Stove is leaving what looks like black soot on my stove. I have even found it on my fan hood. The stove is only 2 1/2 years old. Been noticing the soot for a few weeks. Worried if it might be getting into my food so cooking with lids on the pans. Do you know the cause of this problem? Seems like all 4 burners are doing it.

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Linda April 27, 2014 at 5:17 pm

I have a 15 yr old electricstove tha has always been set to high would like to fix the problem thanks

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Marty April 25, 2014 at 6:30 am

I have a GE electric range. The oven light will not go out.
Everything is working fine.
Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Marty

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gary September 5, 2014 at 8:21 am

GE model JBS07 H2WW
Oven temp control switch is erratic in turning off the oven; I need to turn clockwise and counterclockwise at times to get the oven light to go out?

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Heather September 14, 2014 at 1:57 am

This just started happening on my 3 year old GE Oven- how did you resolve this or did you ever find out what causes it, any assistance would be wonderful.
Thank you
Heather

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Ken April 24, 2014 at 7:54 am

Karie,

I have an older GE rang, model# JBP65GS2WH, when baking last night I noticed that the broiler element was on and very hot. When I tried to turn the oven dial to the off position, the broiler element would not turn off. I also noticed that the timer would not count down. I had to un- plug the stove to get it to shut off. I plugged it back in after being off a couple of hours and the broiler element came on again with the oven dial in the off position. I’ve checked both elements and there doesn’t appear to be any burn marks or holes in the elements. What can this be?

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chad April 23, 2014 at 1:13 pm

My stove banners turn on but don’t. Get fully hot take half hour to boil water and the indicator lights don’t turn on

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David April 16, 2014 at 12:23 am

I have a tenant who is reporting that the back two stove top elements are cutting out after 20 minutes. The unit is about 35 years old and I think it is a Chef brand. Is there a problem I should be looking for in the unit or is it an operating problem?

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Tony Roth April 13, 2014 at 2:41 pm

all of the lights have stopped working on my whirlpool electric glass top, could this be a fuse ?top still gets hot

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Karie Fay April 15, 2014 at 11:23 pm

Hi Tony,

That would be my guess. Do you have the owners manual? If not, I would try to find the manual online — just search by the model — and locate the fuse in a wiring diagram. Change it out and your lights should work well!

If I can help further, let me know.
Karie Fay

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KAY NELSON April 13, 2014 at 7:10 am

The on light won’t go off. Even with all burners turned off the on light stays lit and all burners stay warm. I have turned off power to my range to try to reset it, but the light still stays on. Is there a reset button anywhere? Or should I call a repair service? MAYTAG MODEL #MERH7528BAW

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Karie Fay April 15, 2014 at 11:13 pm

Hi Kay,

No, unfortunately there isn’t a reset button for your problem. From what I see, it looks like the problem is likely the burner switches. According to an expert on the Sears Parts Direct website, replacing the switches will fix the problem. Unplug the stove first! If you want a second opinion, please do call a repair service however. You don’t want an unsafe stove!

Hope this helps!
Karie Fay

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Bob K April 8, 2014 at 12:43 pm

I own a GE Adora electric stove. All burners and oven come on but then I hear a click and the burners turn off for about 20 seconds then clicks again and they turn on for 20 seconds, just keeps toggling back and forth and it takes longer to cook, any ideas before I call the appliance folks..

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Lynn Greco April 5, 2014 at 9:37 am

Sorry, I forgot to add the make and model. It’s a glass top Kenmore stove. Model.. 790.95748990

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Lynn Greco April 5, 2014 at 9:30 am

My oven does not stay on most of the time.. I can set it for all different temps and it will shut itself off when ever it feels like it. Sometimes right after I turn it on, sometimes it will cook for a bit then shut off. I have to keep checking it or stand and watch to make sure it stays on do no one get half cook food. Does anyone know why it does this. What needs to be fixed. PLEASE HELP!!

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Karie Fay April 15, 2014 at 11:37 pm

Hi Lynn,

I hate hearing of your problem. I love to cook and can only imagine the hassle.

I know this is small consolation, but it appears most people report their Kenmore turning ON by itself, not OFF. At least yours is safer. But not to make light of the situation. I honestly am not sure what the problem is. I wonder if it’s a main control board — basically the brain of the stove. I would suggest having a technician look into it, or at least a knowledgeable friend or family member.

Good luck!
Karie Fay

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Jennifer March 23, 2014 at 6:37 am

I have an electric range top that about half the time heats up to high even though I have it only on medium. Anyone have a reason for this problem

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Karie Fay April 2, 2014 at 7:05 pm

Hi Jennifer,

It sounds to me like your burner switch is malfunctioning. This is a rheostat control and in electrical systems it controls the heat flow. It is possible to repair if someone has experience with electrical parts. Otherwise, I suggest having a professional do it for you.

Hope this helps,
Karie Fay

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Reba March 5, 2014 at 6:18 pm

Hello,
I bought a used kenmore stove and plugged it up and noticed 3 of the burners get hot when the burner switches are in the off position. And one burner doesn’t work at all. Any suggestions on what can be causing the burners to get hot on their own???

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Karie Fay April 2, 2014 at 7:09 pm

Hi Reba,

Oh no! Did you contact the seller about this? I am thinking one element may be burned out (the one that doesn’t work). However, the other three sound like a burner control switch malfunction — a rheostat control by name. You can try replacing the one burner, and if you know someone experienced with electrical they may even be able to change the control. Otherwise, consult a professional.

Hope that helps,
Karie Fay

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Comfort March 2, 2014 at 2:55 am

Good morning
I need urgent HELP, i have a Fa60GH stove. The gas is working but I can use the oven, I have turn “on” – nothing happening. I have guess coming for lunch. HELP

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Pam February 26, 2014 at 5:04 pm

I have. Maybe oneyerold GE electric range and yesterday the burners were smoking when I was using them. No burnt food on them or anything spilled on them, today i had a pot of oup on th smll front burner turned my oven on to prehest 425 and the whole thing shut down. Checked th breaker nothing blown there. Shut everything off, turned stovetop on and everything came on flashing. Turned oven on and the whole system shut down again. Turned burner on again and everything would pop up flashing but oven never heated. At yhis point nothing is working.

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jaya February 25, 2014 at 10:05 pm

My induction stove is sounding heavily.till now it has worked well.Do you have any idea about it.what I have to do?

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Karie Fay April 2, 2014 at 7:11 pm

Hi Jaya,

Can you describe the sound you refer to? Have you recently started using different cookware in and on the stove? In most instances, sounds made during cooking are caused by the cookware, with an induction stove. However, if you can tell me more about the problem, I may have some other ideas.

Hope that helps!
Karie Fay

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catherine munn February 12, 2014 at 1:15 pm

I have a year old G.E.range with glass oven door. Something boiled over on stove top and went in between the 2 layers of glass leaving the glass streaked with a white substance VERY noticeable .Need advice on how to clean the glass

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Cassandra Block February 10, 2014 at 2:14 pm

I have a GE electric range and oven. The heating element recently went out in my oven. About a week later I was cooking on the stove top and smoke started to come up from all of the burners. I also opened the oven to get a blast of smoke come out. After I turned everything off the smoke eventually stopped. It didn’t really smell like burnt food or like burnt plastic. I have noticed that on my range burners, it looks almost like corrosion. I am trying to figure out if I need a new oven or if I can just replace the burners and heating element.

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Jim February 9, 2014 at 8:06 am

I have a GE glass top free standing convection range; model #JB680DP1BB.
The left front burner does not come on when the knob is turned on, all the other burners work fine.
Is this something I can fix myself or do I need to call a repair service to have it fixed?

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Karie Fay April 2, 2014 at 7:15 pm

Hi Jim!

I bet you can fix it yourself, if you haven’t already.

When a burner refuses to come on, it’s usually one of two things — either a bad burner element or a rheostat control. The control is a little more difficult, so I would try the element first. If you have a multimeter, you can also test to see if power is getting to the burner.

Hope this helps!
Karie Fay

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steve February 7, 2014 at 4:15 pm

I HAVE A WHIRLPOOL SUPER CAPACITY 465 WITH ACCUBAKE SYSTEM MODEL RF385PXE 4.65 CUBIC FOOT OVEN STOVE TOP. THE PROBLEM IM HAVING IS THE
BROILER LIGHT INSIDE IS ON WHEN YOU TURN THE STOVE ON. WE HAD THE OVEN
ON THEN THE OVEN CLEAN CAME ON AND LOCKED THE DOOR WITH THE FOOD IN IT.
I COULD ONLY TURN IT OFF WAS TO TURN THE BRAKER OFF AND THEN COOLED DOWN THEN IT OPEN. WHAT COULD IT BE.

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michelle February 7, 2014 at 3:15 pm

We are renting a house where the stove keeps sparking electricity. The other day I went to turn it on and all of the burners just flashed at once. This is the third time the landlord send someone to fix it. Every time someone comes to fix it the burners where they clip into the electric port or whatever it is they say are fried and they replace them. Now they are saying it is our fault because we are cooking with cookware that is bent or con caved and it is making the heat go back into the stove wiring and thats causing them to get fried. Anyways they said we need to use flat cookware in order for this problem not to happen again. Could this be true. Made sense, but IDK?

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Darren February 5, 2014 at 5:30 pm

I have a convection wall unit oven, model number GLEB30S9DSD. Both the baking element and broil element are good, as well as I replaced the oven temp sensor due to having a reading of 700 ohms at room temp. Thus, temp sensor is new. However, the unit still will not broil or heat for cleaning mode.

Any ideas/solutions?

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Dianne Johnson February 8, 2014 at 7:47 pm

I have a KENMORE built in oven with the microwave above the oven. The stove top is over at the other side. The serial numbers do not show up when I key them in. It is about 23 years old. It has the small silver push buttons. The clock works fine and so does the timer. When I try to PREHEAT..the stove..it comes on..a light showing ON..comes on underneath it. You can feel the element and it starts to heat. In about 45 seconds..it cuts off. The same thing happens when I set the broiler. The coils cannot be bad..because they will begin to heat before the oven cuts off. I checked and the cleaning element does the same thing.

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NANCY January 24, 2014 at 11:31 pm

For no apparent reason my timer on my Kenmore glass top range has gone off. I don’t have the manual and I can’t get it to stop. None of the other buttons will works since it doesn’t allow me to turn the timer off. I will get someone to help me move the stove to unplug. Are there fuses in this? Any suggestions?

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joan Mravca January 21, 2014 at 10:41 am

I have a wonderful G.E. stove, microwave and fridge that worked fine until today. I used the self-cleaning feature over the weekend and now today I tried to bake and the oven will not go above 250degrees. I checked the lock and it is all the way they way it should be. Why did this happen after I cleaned it

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linda jeschkeit January 19, 2014 at 9:40 am

This may sound funny but we just bought a used ge electric stove but had to take the oven door off to move it.Now we cant get the door back on.Help,please!

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Becky January 15, 2014 at 6:55 am

I have a kitchen aid convection oven that losses power failure when it is not in use and when in use also

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JBDragon January 9, 2014 at 6:20 pm

I just got a new Range for this buisness. It’s a Whirlpool WFC310S0AW. It’s for the break room. There was no 240 volt outlet and so I had to add one. So I ran #8 gauge wire across the factory to the 120/240 Volt Panel. This Panel is of course connected to one of a few large Transformers we have since we get 480 3 phase to our factory.

Anyway, I ran 3 wires, Black/Red/Green. There’s ground in this panel but no neutral. So I wire for a 3 Outlet setup. I got a Duel 40 Amp Circuit breaker and wired it all up. Now this is the strange part I don’t get, maybe someone can help me. At the 3 Plug outlet on the Wall, when I measure voltage, L1 to ground or L2 to ground I get around 126 to 154 volts and if I measure L1 to L2 I get 220 volts or so!!! So all seems good to me.

Now I plug the cable into the Wall and the Range doesn’t work. I pull the back panel off and measure at the terminal Blocks. L1 to ground and I get 220 volts or so, L2 to ground and I get around 13-15 volts. I’ve turned nothing on. This can’t be normal. I expect the 125 Volts or whatever at L1 and L2 to ground just like at the outlet but I’m not getting that.

This is a brand new Whirlpool Range. I find it hard to believe something with it is screwed up?!?! Did I wire something wrong? Some weird Phase issue?!?! I can’t seem to figure it out. I’ve tried switching wires around and different circuit breaker. Anyone???

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Tran January 5, 2014 at 4:50 pm

I has a GE stovel , radial -style , and on the one burner it not work so well the or the four is good ,the problem is before when I turn it on the hold burner wil go on ,but now only the big element that on and the small element inside it don’t come on can u please tell me why, and as you know one burner but it has like two white ring before there both turn on red ,but now only the big one on the small one inside not on ,can you please tell me why ,thank you

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Karie Fay January 20, 2014 at 12:25 am

Hi Tran,

If possible, please let me know the model. I am having a hard time finding information on a two-ring electric burner. However, from what I do understand, I am thinking you have a burned out element. If so, you should be able to simply get a new burner and replace it and be back in business! If I am wrong, if you can let me know more information, I will see what I can figure out.

Hope that helps,
Karie Fay

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Bob January 1, 2014 at 10:57 pm

I have a Whirlpool electric stove model RH302Bxgw0. Oven goes off while in use. Once this happens, it stay off for days. Then suddenly, if you turn the oven on, its working again. After a couple of use, it goes off again. When this happens broiler does’nt work. Stove top works.

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Patsy Deignan January 1, 2014 at 10:54 pm

I am 65 years old and I am certain that my Kenmore stove is at least 20 years oldd, if not a little more. I need: 9 knobs all together on the top outside panel:
3 on the front right – behinhy a plastic panel that i scratched & can’t be read. One is the Start bKnob – the Second is the Stop Knob & the Third is to Clock Knob.

To the left of that, there are 4 knobs that are grouped together: Front Burner – Rear Burner – ( THESE RELATE TO THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE STOVE ). Then, the other two knobs are the REAR BURNER & THE FRONT BURNER – ( These relate to the left side of the stove. The very last knobs are: The Selector Knob & the Oven 0ntrol Knob.

Almost the entire top panel is not readable. I’ve just had it so long that they are etched in my mind.

I would also need, besides the knobs, the most important items, which are: Two large burners and the two small burners , each with their respective drip pans to fit under them. Last but not least, the two racks that fit inside the oven. I really wish that I could purchase a brand new stove and oven & it would not be electric but rather gas. Unfortunately, I can’t. I really don’t know what each of the necessary pieces for my current stove & oven cost. Might it be possible to get the cost of those first and then I can decide what I can do now & perhaps save for the others? Whatever you could do would be so very much appreciated by me!! Again, thank you in advance for your time and attention & any knowledge or help would be so very appreciated!!

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Clayton January 13, 2014 at 10:48 pm

Patsy,

You can find replacement burners with the pans included at a local Walmart or hardware store for around 7-8$ a piece and I would recommend going to a used appliance store and getting replacement knobs for around $5. If you can spend 100-$250, you can replace the old range altogether.

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Ernie January 1, 2014 at 8:05 pm

My sister has an older very basic whirlpool electric range. She was cooking on one of the stovetop coil elements and all of a sudden it stopped heating. All of the stovetop burners are not working. The oven is not working. The light for the burners goes on but they don’t heat. The oven temperature switch continues to click of and on when turned on and the oven does not heat nor does the oven on indicating light does not go on. I have checked for 240 volts and it is ok. All the wiring in the back looks fine and all connections are good. I cannot find an inline fuse that may be opening one leg of the power. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks, Ernie

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jodi July 27, 2014 at 2:16 pm

Have the same problem, did you find the cause?

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Donald December 31, 2013 at 10:01 am

I have a Maytag Electric Stove and the springs fell out of the door. My question is How do I put them back on?

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JOHN December 26, 2013 at 9:42 am

I HAVE AN LG ELECTRIC RANGE MODEL LRE30453ST/01. WHEN THE OVEN IS SET FOR A CERTAIN TEMPERATUR IT JUST KEEPS GETTING HOTTER AND HOTTER. I AM LOOKING TO FIND OUT HOW TO FIX IT MYSELF. I AM PRETTY HANDY BUT CAN’T SEEM TO FIND ANY INSTRUCTION ON HOW TO FIX IT. IT THANKS JOHN

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Michael December 21, 2013 at 11:45 pm

I have an older electric stove the wire to the front large element burned in half where some one had cut and spliced it, wife was cooking and it poped and the element quit. I replaced the wire completely and it still does not work. I ran the wire to the other control and tried it but to no avail what am I missing?

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Terri Bailey December 16, 2013 at 5:40 pm

I have a 1970 Thermador double oven (cat: MSC 28-2) that was never used much and looks like new. The ovens heat well but the upper oven heats about 25 degrees cooler than the setting and the lower oven heats about 25 degrees hotter than the setting. The clock doesn’t work although the clock light works. The oven has a time bake function and a timed appliance outlet but neither work since the clock doesn’t work. There should also be a “Temp-Matic Meat Thermometer” that is missing so I don’t know if that function still works. Is there any hope for fixing the clock, adjusting the thermostat or replacing the meat probe? I really like the ovens and would like to keep them.

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Jerry Childers December 13, 2013 at 7:19 pm

I have and older Kenmore Electric Range, model 911.9540200, I having problems with the preheat function and the oven is very slow to reach the set temperature.

The oven takes much to long to preheat to the desired temperature.
In my test, I set the temperature to 400 F. The baking element comes on and glows red. At 200 F +_, the preheat indicator light comes on. The baking element appears to change behavior to a maintain temperature, cycling between on and off with a much slower rate of temperature rise. I found that if I reset the preheat light by turning the temperature knob until the preheat light goes off and then set the temperature control to 400 F., the baking element stops cycling and becomes a steady res. Shortly afterwards, the preheat light comes on and I can repeat the process until the 400 F. is achieved. STRANGE BEHAVIOR.
Any suggestions?

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Jodi December 13, 2013 at 4:49 pm

I have a GE glass top stove only bout 8 years old. I was cooking in the oven and noticed the back burner was smoking and was extremly hot. I did not use burners at all, nothing was spilled in oven or on glass top nor was it accidently turned on. I shut stove off but it took awhile for it to stop smoking. It actually caused smoke detector to go off. I don’t want to try it again and really don’t want to pay for service call just spent $400 on my GE refrig!!! Thank you!

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reg dupuis December 12, 2013 at 9:05 am

Electric stove won’t turn on when i replaced the 40 amp 240 volt fuse and tried to turn the stove on the new fuse was arcing in the main panel , which cause the fuse to blow again, any suggestions?

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Emily December 7, 2013 at 5:36 pm

I’m having the exact same problem as C. Croupar below (12/4/13). I can’t locate the model number but we have an electric Whirlpool range with a winding timer and twist controls for oven and stove. Buzzing/whirring sounds as though it is getting progressively louder and faster.

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Olina December 5, 2013 at 3:48 pm

hi,
I have an old GE stove purchased by the previous home owners around 1996. It has served me very well for almost 10 years.
Here is my problem. After baking today, I turned the oven off the same way as always. Normally, after turning the Bake function off and punching the temperature button twice, the display changes from the temperature to the clock display. Not so this time. It shows the Boiling Pot symbol, three dashes and the F symbol and is not cooling off (or is but very slowly). I tried to cancel and repeat the functions but nothing has helped.

There were 2 similar GE stoves in the house but unfortunately the previous owners left a manual for the other one only so I don’t know the model number of the one I am still using.

Any suggestions?

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jerilyn brandelius December 4, 2013 at 7:40 pm

I left a ceramic bottomed kettle on an electric stove burner and it boiled out. The ceramic melted on to the burner. Can I clean it off and if so what do you recommend or do I just have to replace it. Thanks for your help.

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Carolyn Coupar December 4, 2013 at 1:22 am

My electric oven has started making a buzzing noise, it doesn’t have a clock, it has a wind on timer and dials for temp, and what pert of oven us to be used, any suggestions on reason for buzzing

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Tom December 2, 2013 at 9:29 pm

My stove is not one year old yet, now it beeps, this is the model, WFC310S0AW0 we disconected it and still beeps every 8 minutes, we try all the buttons, what else can we do?, does the clock has a battery?
we are going crazy. Please help us. Thanks.

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Judy December 2, 2013 at 3:14 pm

We have a KitchenAid electric range, purchased in 1995, with two electric outlets (sockets) on the range’s control panel. We were plugging in an electric kettle or an electric frying pan into the outlets – not at the same time – but both outlets are now blackened and scorched. Is it unsafe to plug in a kettle or frying pan? If so, what are these outlets for?

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albert November 29, 2013 at 8:16 pm

i have a 50 + year old magic chef built in oven. the broiler element burnt up.being so old i cant a replacement. does anyone know of any company that could make a replacement.
model# 1751-3MC
serial# 1X- 18757
thank you

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Lisa November 27, 2013 at 5:40 pm

I have a frigidaire flat top stove and the over will only come on 450 degrees and I have replaces the bottom element but that doesn’t seem to be the problem, Does anyone know what may be the problem

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michael collius November 25, 2013 at 7:07 am

when i turn the oven on preheat the word start? comes up. oven will not come on. we have whirlpool slide in.

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Cheryl November 20, 2013 at 10:03 am

EVERY year at this time I go all over the internet to find help. Maybe this time I’ll find it. I bought a NEW GE stove a few years back. For (35 years) on the Holidays I am the one who bakes the Turkey about 20lbs or more. It has ALWAYS been VERY tasty, Nice a Brown & juicy. BUT since I bought my new GE stove I haven’t baked ANY FOWL that was tasty and they WON’T brown. My recipe has NOT changed. What can me the matter. Geeeeeee I won’t my old nasty stove back. HELP! Thanks

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Bryan Turner November 19, 2013 at 9:51 am

I have a Whirlpool range with oven problems. I first noticed that oven was kicking off during pre-heat cycle. Also started to notice that oven fan was coming on and off intermittently for no reason. Thought that this could indicate issues with temperature sensor so I replaced it but this has not corrected the problem. Any suggestions ??

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Jeff November 19, 2013 at 9:28 am

I have a GE electric stove. Problem I’m having is when I start the oven, usually only the broiler element comes on. Here’s the odd part, if I can’t get the oven preheated because the bake element will not come on, all I need to do is rotate the temperature dial clockwise to off and then counter clockwise to a temp of about 250. That usually gets the bake element to start. However to bring the oven temp to the desired level I have to repeat this process but I need to bring the oven temperature up in about 25 degree increments. Once I get to where I need to be, everything operates as normal. Note – my bake element has about a 1″ area that looks like it melted slightly. It’s been that way for about three years but the problem I have described started about 3 months ago. Thoughts?

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ronda November 18, 2013 at 1:18 pm

we have a whirlpool oven. the bake unit stopped working so we replaced it with a new one. the bake unit still does not work, we have had no trouble with the broiler unit. any suggestions?

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Mary November 16, 2013 at 8:23 pm

I have an older GE electric stove…oven only comes on when I start out putting the setting on broiler first. Is this a lower heating element problem?

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Karie Fay November 25, 2013 at 10:41 pm

Hi Mary,

If the heating element won’t come on, the most likely cause would be the heating element. Luckily, these are very simple to replace and not very expensive. However, if it’s coming on after you put it on broil, it could be something else. Could you tell me the type of oven? I can give you better information then.

Thanks!
Karie Fay

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barry snyder November 11, 2013 at 7:35 pm

my ge electric range 2 of the burners no matter where you set them they turn beat red even if they are on the lowest setting it is a ge model JBS27w C3ww
S/N VD172292P what could it be

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Barb July 27, 2014 at 11:37 am

I have the same problem.. but mine is Frigidaire stove model LFEF3011LB,( It is not a self cleaning oven type) the front left burner, gets red on the Lo setting, scared me to death. I bought it 2 years ago. Use to be stoves would last a longer time.. but I guess now when you buy appliances they last a couple years. Is there anyway for a do it yourselfer (my son) could fix it?

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Jerry B November 10, 2013 at 10:26 am

Bought new Kenmore electric stove. Sears has delivered three so far. Three prong pigtail is put on by installer, but when plugged in my three prong receptical, all three had same problem. The burners would work, but all electronics, like the clock, would not work. Sears thinks problem is my wiring/three prong receptical. I hate to pay for electrician based on what Sears contracted delivery people are saying. Could the problem be mine or are their stoves defective?

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Karie Fay November 25, 2013 at 10:39 pm

Jerry,

Is it the same pigtail each time? Try having someone test the cord with an ohm meter off the range, wiggling the prongs, one at a time, as it’s tested fr continuity with the correct terminal. Try wiggling the cord as well, and test for voltage on the rear of the stove. Sometimes pressure will make it start working. Either way, this should help troubleshoot the problem. If your receptacle is good and the pigtail is good… it leaves one thing (and vice versa).

Hope this helps,
Karie Fay

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Ann November 6, 2013 at 6:24 am

On my maytag electric range, when my timer goes off indicating cooking time is done, the oven shuts off. This just started in the last couple of days. Any ideas? Thanks for the help.

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Karie Fay November 25, 2013 at 10:33 pm

Hi Ann,

I am a little confused. You didn’t mention the specific Maytag model you have. But is it possible the oven is designed to shut off when the timer does? If not, it sounds like a timer malfunction off the top of my head. How old is your stove? Have you tried contacting Maytag? I would try that first and see if they can tell you what is wrong or fix it for you.

Hope that helps,
Karie Fay

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Rae Davis November 5, 2013 at 5:10 pm

I have a GE model JSS28WOK3WW purchased in Nov 2006. It appears the electric panel at the front has gone out. It only flashes the time and you cannot reset the time. The coils on the top are also not working. We have tripped the breaker box and that did not work. This range was purchased & put in the house in 2006 but it was used very little until Jan 2009. I have looked for the fuses but have not located them. Can you tell me where they are? This range is not old enough to need to be replaced.

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Sue November 3, 2013 at 10:02 am

My GE oven stops working when I am using burners with it….the burners stay on but the oven shuts down. when it sits for awhile it turns back on. help

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Gwen November 3, 2013 at 7:41 am

Why is there a hole going from the oven to the back let hand burner on my electric range.

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jz November 25, 2013 at 8:13 am

That hole is the oven vent.

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BILL November 2, 2013 at 3:45 pm

I have a Maytag Model MES55570AAW range/oven
Lately the tops of baked items don’t seem to be getting done as much as the bottoms.
On broil the top element gets red hot and the display shows only the top element on. On bake the bottom element gets red hot. But on Bake the top element doesn’t seem to get red hot on preheat/startup although the display shows both elements are on. Since the top element does not get red hot on preheat it is hard to tell if it is on.

Shouldn’t the top element get red hot on preheat? What could be the trouble?

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Peggy October 30, 2013 at 8:39 am

We have a LG Electric convection oven purchased 4 years ago. The control board has been replaced 3 times, the thermostat also has been replaced. When I try to bake it takes 2 or 3 times longer than it should and then the outside is burned and the inside is soup or not cooked. I am so upset with this range as I paid a lot of money for it. Can you help me before I go and purchase another range.

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Karie Fay November 25, 2013 at 10:31 pm

Hi Peggy,

Sorry you are having so many problems. I know how frustrating that is!

You didn’t mention the model or more specific information. I assume you purchased it new. Have you called the manufacturer about the problem? Also, who replaced the previous parts? If it was a technician, I would fully expect him to make sure it works correctly before I paid — and I would make them come back until I am satisfied.

You can also try picking a local company’s brain. I wouldn’t throw good money away until someone can fix it.

Good Luck –
Karie Fay

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amanda October 29, 2013 at 11:38 am

j have a cooker its a electric oven but as soon as you turn it on its start smokeing and the lights smells burnt but not sure why that has hapend

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kim October 29, 2013 at 4:24 am

i took out the screws to my bake element and cannot get the wires to disconnect like in the videos….does that mean i have to take the back of the stove of it is a glass top

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Karie Fay November 25, 2013 at 10:28 pm

Hi Kim,

I haven’t a clue, since every stove is different and you didn’t mention what type yours is. What videos are you looking at? My suggestion is to find the owner’s manual. If you don’t have it, look for it online — they are usually fairly simple to find. If you can give me more information, I may also be able to help more.

Good Luck!
Karie Fay

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dc October 28, 2013 at 12:52 pm

GE wall oven. While baking, broiler element comes on a few minutes after desired
temperature reached. Turn oven off- then back on, broiler element comes back on
a few minutes later. Must turn oven off/on each time to bake. Both elements appear to be working ok. Any solutions? Oven from 1995.

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evekyn October 27, 2013 at 2:52 pm

One of the black metal pieces that secure the element to the burner fell off. Where can I buy a new one? Thank you

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Karie Fay November 25, 2013 at 10:26 pm

Hi Evekyn,

What kind of stove do you have? And can you describe the part better? Without having more details, let me suggest that you either contact the manufacturer or an authorized service representative. Even if it’s an older stove, I would expect you should be able to find a replacement part somewhere at a reasonable price. If you need more help, just let me know.

Good Luck!
Karie Fay

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Bob October 24, 2013 at 7:16 pm

Here’s a stumper..Kenmore Elite Range broiler heating element stays on at 169 degrees when every setting is OFF !!! WTF. Can anybody solve this mystery? I shut the breaker off to the range until we get this figured out. I can’t find anything on this condition on the web???

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Karie Fay October 26, 2013 at 5:23 pm

Hi Bob,

I have a few ideas you might consider. If none of these pan out, I would try calling Kenmore or a Kenmore authorized technician and picking their brain.

A faulty thermostat can create a higher-than-accurate reading, causing the broiler to stay on. But your bake setting won’t be accurate either, and I would expect turning the oven OFF should eliminate a faulty thermostat.

Sometimes, a cancel switch on the oven control panel is broken. This prevents you from turning the broiler off. In this case, you have to unplug your oven (or turn off the breaker as you did) to stop it. Most electric stoves have one cancel button controlling both bake and broil but there might be one for both. Have you checked the bake setting to see how it works? If it is the switch, you’ll probably need a technician to replace it.

A broken selector switch — which generates signals from the thermostat to the control panel, telling it to adjust the temperature for broil — may get stuck on one heat setting (in this case, 169 degrees). This signifies a short in the selector switch, which was my first instinct. However, I would expect this to affect the heat during bake as well.

A faulty heating element can also cause problems. Usually it happens in the On or Off position, however.

While I am leaning toward the cancel switch or selector switch, I can’t be certain. I would try troubleshooting these and going from there.

Hope that helps,
Karie Fay

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Lena October 24, 2013 at 5:59 pm

I have a GE electric range, which I purchased 2002 at Sears Canada. I never had any problem but after a power search the circuit board for the oven didn’t work anymore. I can do a reset for the clock, but can’t either set the clock or the oven anymore. I already called a few electrical stores to see if they can get the circuit board so that we can replace it. We where told that the stove is too old and that the circuit board is unavailable.
I am stuck with a good stove but can’t use the oven anymore, although, it still is in perfect condition.
Does anybody has an idea how to bypass the circuit board or even be able to fix the unit? Thank you.

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Karie Fay November 25, 2013 at 10:24 pm

Hi Lena,

The circuit board is the brains of the operation — there isn’t any way to bypass it. Truthfully, I get scared when I hear talk of bypassing anything… even if something is possible doesn’t make it safe. It’s there for a reason.

Have you tried looking online? The electrical stores you check would carry current parts, but lots of times you can find older parts online. You might ask Sears as well. Have you tried that?

Hope that helps,
Karie Fay

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Susan Wesa October 23, 2013 at 6:40 am

My GE Induction/Convection oven I think has a problem.

When I cook on convection the fan goes out when the temp. I’ve set is reached. It’s the fan suppose to run all while I’m cooking???

Thank You

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Karie Fay October 26, 2013 at 7:01 pm

Hi Susan,

I took a look at the Owner’s Manual for a PT295 GE Self-cleaning Convection Oven. I am not sure what yours is, but thought I would use that one as a guideline.

It indicates that when the oven reaches the proper temperature the fan will stop. Then, under a section on using the convection oven where it talks about the convection fan, it says the fan not only circulates the heat to cook food faster, it also cycles after the baking is done to cool the oven off. However, it doesn’t run constantly. Instead, it turns in one direction, pauses, then operates in the other direction. By changing the spin rotation it ensures even heating. If you open the door, the fan will also turn off. This is part of the design (for safety).

Does your oven fan cycle on and off? If so, I would say things are working properly. If you have further concerns, I would try contacting GE and asking for their assistance.

Hope that helps,
Karie Fay

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Garry Lowther October 19, 2013 at 8:56 am

We have a Sears Galexy electric stove,the oven will not work.You can set the temp., and or the clock, but the oven will not warm up.the top burners work and the clock works., but the oven and broiler don`t seem to warm up.Please help,
Garry

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Karen K October 18, 2013 at 4:33 pm

My Bosch slide-in oven only works right on Convection Roast. On any other setting, it will not preheat past about 300 degrees. I put a thermometer in the oven and on Convection Roast, it is about 20 degrees too hot. I am grateful for having the ability to use on this one setting, but when I had a repair guy come out, he said there is no sensor in this model to be replaced and he had no idea what was wrong with it. It is only about 4 or 5 years old, but we have had a lot of power issues from the last two hurricanes. Any ideas anyone?

Thanks!

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Judy Brodersen October 16, 2013 at 5:31 pm

My GE range and oven model J S998T H1…I’ve had it for 7 years. Never a problem. My husband used it yesterday and ran it about 6 hours at 200 degrees (on convection oven) to dry tomatoes from the garden. I want it today…if I put in an oven temperature over 275, it gives an ERR message. It is heating to 275. I figure my husband (not experienced with this oven) may have chosen something or punched something he shouldn’t. Please help! My stove works perfectly otherwise.

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Karie Fay October 26, 2013 at 6:36 pm

Hi Judy,

Have you fixed your problem yet? If not, I think you will be pleased to know it’s nothing complicated. I believe your hubby somehow managed to change your oven settings from Fahrenheit to Celsius.

GE states, “One of the “Special Features” offered on selected cooking products is Fahrenheit or Celsius Temperature Selection.
If the oven temperature cannot be set above 290 degrees or there is an ERR in the display, the oven is set for Celsius degrees.”

Here’s what you need to do:

Press the BAKE and BROIL Hi/Lo pads simultaneously and hold for about 3 to 5 seconds, until the display shows the letters SF.

Push the COOKTIME and the BROIL HI/Lo button and the display should change to show “C”. Now push the button again and watch as it changes to “F.”

Press START to program the change.

GE says on some models only the BROIL button needs to be pushed the second time. The instructions are likely in your users manual as well.

Hope that helps!
Karie Fay

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Marian October 14, 2013 at 12:24 pm

My samsung. Electric ranger clock lost part of the time display . First it got lighter now the hour is gone

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Karie Fay October 26, 2013 at 6:16 pm

Hi Marian,

Thanks for the question. I am afraid I can’t be certain, but I am thinking it is likely that a part called the EOC — or electronic oven control — or it’s equivalent for Samsung may be responsible.

The EOC is part of a system that not only monitors and controls the oven temperature, it also runs the oven timer and clock display. Most newer ovens use this system. The electronic control, usually located in the control panel, may become heat damaged, ruined by an electrical surge, or wear out over time. It’s not a difficult part to replace if you can locate it. Try looking at the owner’s manual.

Hope this helps,
Karie Fay

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rade jancevski October 13, 2013 at 8:36 pm

we need to know this; if heat element on electric range draws 400 watts,at 240 volts,how many watts will the element draw at 120 volts

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ralph October 12, 2013 at 5:13 pm

OK, I have a GE Range. Last week all the lights and oven stopped working. Service man said something wrong with my house circuit, Electrician checked and finds nothing wrong. Bought a new Whirlpool Elect Range and same problem. Another electrician called and says nothing wrong with my circuit???????

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Rick October 28, 2013 at 5:24 am

Are you using the same cord/pigtail on both ranges? They can get tricky and make and break/open and close a circuit. This can be an intermittent type problem.

Have someone check the cord with and ohm meter off the range while wiggling the each prong as it is being tested for continuity with the appropriate terminal.

Might also want to wiggle the cord while checking for voltage at the terminal block on the back of the range, both at the block and at the wall receptica. The recepticals can also get a little finicky. I have had ones for testing purposes I would sometime have to apply pressure to to get the power to the stove/range.

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Mike October 8, 2013 at 8:02 pm

Hello,
My understanding is that, when replacing a stove burner block, the wires should not be clipped and spliced with ceramic wire nuts (true?). Rather, wire leads from the block should be connected the same way that the old ones were connected. When I remove the sheet metal to get at the wires, I find that there is what seems to be old “insulation” where the 220 leads are connected. Should I replace it (with what?) or just put back the old stuff? Or get a new stove? I’m in unknown territory here. Help would be greatly appreciated. Mike

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stan October 8, 2013 at 4:21 am

have electric stove and 1 plate turn red hot when the knob is only on light ,why ?

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Ann Palma October 7, 2013 at 10:10 am

Wires attached to oven element are burnt. My husband took oven element off and we saw burnt wire on left. He could not find the right wire that should be attached to element. About how much will the repair be? My oven is a Kenmore dual fuel range and I like it. I really don’t want to replace it. Any suggestions you can provide will be helpful.

Thank You
Ann Palma

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LouAnn October 5, 2013 at 3:40 am

My burner light on my GE stove won’t shut off, but no burners are actually on?

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Marilyn January 3, 2014 at 10:53 am

I have the same problem. Let me know what you find out.

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KB March 19, 2014 at 3:44 pm

I also have the same problem. Did you find the cause or resolution ?

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Glenda October 3, 2013 at 8:32 am

My convection oven bake or roast does not work , but the bake cycle does , what could be the problem , before I have to call in a tech;, anyone???????

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Patrick September 28, 2013 at 6:18 am

Hi, the burner on my hotpoint stove won’t turn off, I tried unplugging the switch on the back and the light is still on! I’m assuming that one maybe both switches on that side are bad?

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Doug September 25, 2013 at 7:08 am

My oven changes from oven to broil all on its own . I will be baking something and i will come to check on it and the top is burnt because the broiler came on on its own.

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Nate September 23, 2013 at 10:42 am

One of my heating elements is not working. Have power coming from control board, power coming from switch, and power reaching the brand new heating element. Still the element does not heat up. Any ideas?

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Barbara September 21, 2013 at 6:25 pm

I have a new electric range/oven – GE – and there appears to be a structure of aluminum or some light metal surrounding the upper heating element (the BROIL). I’ve only cooked once in the oven, which included a last minute Broil to some nice fish and the oven seemed to lack power. The fish didn’t sear & broil & bubble like you like to see. I wondered… did the upper element of the oven come del’d with a metal structure to protect it in shipping, or is this metal supposed to stay there.

Just wondered if the heat was affected by this metal thing appearing to hold the upper heating elements more secure??? My last old stove didn’t have this… please answer asap – a nice pork loin awaits your counsel ! Many thanks…..

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Linda September 19, 2013 at 8:15 am

My electric oven shuts off while baking. Stove top continues to work fine. I can slam the door and the oven comes back on.

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Jeanne September 15, 2013 at 7:30 am

Our power was out recently and we had to turn the breakers off so they could fix it. After everything was back on, we realized the stove isn’t working. At all. Could a fuse have blown somewhere? I have no idea where to even start.

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Pam September 12, 2013 at 3:09 pm

How do I know if it’s the sensor or the board if the timer for preheat goes off but the temperature hasn’t reached the desired temp? It will reach the desired temp 5-10 minutes after the beeper has gone off.

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JS LACHAPELLE September 11, 2013 at 9:04 am

the clock-timer on my whirlpool ceran range/oven ramdomly goes on-off…most of the time it’s off. when that hapens, then the oven does not work. the top burners always work. The clock-timer module will make a clicking sound and the display will go blank…later in the day it will come on again and the oven will either not turn on at all and throw the display as soon as I turn the oven knob…or it will run for a few minutes (5-10) and died again. when it dies it will either do a disting click…or sometimes do a scratchy eletrical sound and then click. The weird sounds really do seem to come from that clock-timer module.
Is this a clear case of a bad clock-timer?

thanks.

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Karie Fay September 12, 2013 at 11:32 pm

Hi JS,

That’s my best guest. If the clock timer module goes bad, it will prevent the oven from working but will not affect the cook top. The sounds you describe — clicking and scratchy sounds — also lead me to that conclusion as well. It’s fairly easy to test, however. With a volt/ohm meter check for continuity. Turn the power off and unplug your oven before testing! You’ll also have to pull your oven out and disassemble the controls area to do this. If your clock timer is still good, or if you are uncertain about doing this yourself, consult a certified repair technician.

Hope that helps,
Karie Fay

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Chris McNamee September 6, 2013 at 6:25 pm

What could cause a person to receive a significant shock when simultaneously touching a metal flipper to a frying pan on an old coil style electric stove and an aluminum counter top? Thanks.

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Karie Fay September 12, 2013 at 11:35 pm

Chris,

Ouch! Shocks are never good. Something has to be shorting out inside the oven. It could come from any number of things, in my mind. I would check the line coming in first — at the heating element in the oven and those running to the burners. It might be time to get an electrician or technician involved if you can’t spot the problem. Otherwise, consider a new stove. Electrical problems can be tough to hunt down.

Hope that helps,
Karie Fay

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Curtis Reaves September 3, 2013 at 8:10 am

when looking into the oven which side does the red wire go on when replacing the broiler element

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Karie Fay September 5, 2013 at 6:21 pm

Hi Curtis,

That depends on the oven model and manufacturer. The red and black wires go to L1 and L2 respectively to supply the 240 volts your oven requires. So it’s always opposite the black wire. If you tell me the type of stove, I might be able to track that information down for you.

Hope that helps,
Karie Fay

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Curtis Reaves September 3, 2013 at 8:08 am

when replacing a broiler unit, which side does the red wire suppose to be on, this is when you are looking into the oven

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Sandra August 16, 2013 at 7:30 pm

My stove was working perfect & all of the sudden doesn’t work. I checked the breaker & it is ok. The stove is probably 3 yrs old. What could it be?

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Karie Fay September 5, 2013 at 6:28 pm

Hi Sandra,

Did you discover any clues during your troubleshooting? Does the light, for instance, work? Was it in the middle of baking? Does the stove top work but the oven doesn’t? It helps to narrow down causes to know these things. Off the top of my head, I would check the wiring and suspect it could be a thermostat, selector or even an internal computer. It’s probably time to consult a repair technician and find out what it costs to take a look. Or call the manufacturer.

Hope that helps,
Karie Fay

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sandra glenn August 11, 2013 at 10:51 am

I have a Magic Chef stove that is old (perhaps 34 years old) On the outside of the stove, there are 3 knobs, they are labeled clock, auto clock, and auto control. Underneath auto clock is written START and underneath auto control is written STOP. I knpw that these knobs control the burner nad whether is heats up when you turn the burner on. Somehow I have turn the knobs where I cannot get heat. How do I need to turn these knobs or push them in or out to again be able to cook my breakfast.

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Roman August 8, 2013 at 7:15 pm

which way to rotate the handle to reduce the temperature or taken away and turn off the burner electric cooker low to hige and back or it doesn’t matter

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Roman August 8, 2013 at 7:13 pm

which way to rotate the handle to reduce the temperature or taken away and turn off the burner electric cooker

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Karie Fay September 5, 2013 at 6:31 pm

Hi Roman,

If I understand your question correctly, you want to know which direction to turn the dial to work the electric cooker burner? Stoves, cookers and such usually use the same convention — turn the dial clockwise (to the right) to increase the temperature, and counter-clockwise (to the left) to decrease or turn it off.

Hope that helps,
Karie Fay

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TL August 2, 2013 at 12:11 pm

1. When is an older version of electric range NOT worth repairing? Presently, one of the control knobs came off completely… The self-cleaning also does not work.

2. Apart from craigslist, where else could I get a cheap, used, generally functioning stainless steel range for a small home kitchen?

Thanks so much in advance for advices.

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Karie Fay September 5, 2013 at 6:36 pm

Hi TL!

It’s hard for anyone else to say when it isn’t worth fixing. Keep in mind nothing lasts forever… If it’s 8 or 10 years old, it might be worth replacing. If you have the money in your budget and can’t perform the repairs yourself, it might be worth replacing. Weigh the potential estimated cost against the replacement cost. Did the knob go on easily? Do you care about the self-cleaning function?

As for where to find them… Watch local papers. See where your nearest Habitat for Humanity resale store is, or Goodwill and other second-hand stores or discount sellers. Keep your eye out and you will find one that fits your budget, I believe.

Hope this helps,
Karie Fay

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terry w parker July 11, 2013 at 8:43 pm

water leaked out of a roster left on the electric stove all night. now the bake in oven want work. elament seem to be ok. what do I need to replace to fix this.i have a electronic oven control that also has stop working. wife want to but new range, I say fix what we got.

thanks……terry parker

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Isabella June 8, 2013 at 12:36 pm

Thanks for the information. My OLD electric range solid disk elements heat unevenly. Some burn the food, others don’t heat enough. Can you tell me what their temperture should be on any setting?

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Madalene Greco January 25, 2014 at 9:39 pm

My 15 year old Whirlpool electric range (which was here in 2012 when we purchased the house) seems to be acting strangely. I’ve always had gas stoves so I don’t get the problem here. I replaced all of the coil elements on stovetop but they cook food unevenly – pancakes burn on half the bottom of the cake and other foods do the same.

Any idea what the problem is?

Thanks so much!

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